What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

[geanes]

What do you recommend? We have the same rack.

I like the 8 footer personally. Here's what my 8 foot ARB looked like setup on my Gamiviti rack. At the front, it extends just beyond where the A pillar descends. At the back, if you were to drop a plumb line, it would be vertically aligned with the rearmost point of the bumper. The 2 extra feet makes a HUGE difference IMO.

 

[Scoin]

Just rattle can from Lowe’s. But did 1200grit wet sanding on the clear coat to get that gloss I was looking for.

Was it a metallic flake? I like the contrast you're getting in direct light.

 

[brizzle]

Installed my console RAM ball M2V2 mount from @BenCC a few weeks ago. VERY sturdy mount. Handled holding an iPad Mini over nearly 300 miles of corrugated gravel without so much as budging. Using the mount, I now have my MXT275 mic attached. I mounted the main body in the rear cabin. I ran a CAT5 line from the base unit all the way to the dash. I drilled a 7/8” hole between the 2 12v outlets and installed an RJ45 coupler. Makes it super easy to disconnect the handset and take it with me. Super stealthy. Installed the Midland 6db gain antenna on the bullbar. Installed the center console panel from @BenCC as well. Installed a BlueSea 12v outlet and a dual 3.0 USB port. Ran 16awg line off flag connectors thru a small hole in the back of the center console storage bin. Connected them to a 6 fuse BlueSea panel which is then connected to the battery (both positive and ground) with 8awg line with a 30amp in-line fuse at the battery side. All in all VERY impressed with BenCCs stuff. Top notch! Will be getting a few more panels from him in the coming weeks. Will be adding the headliner console to hold my Scangauge and another RJ45 coupler for the HAM mic as soon as he releases them and the cupholder tray replacement on the back of the center console.

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I love the radio setup! I think I am going to end up doing the same thing. How did you mount the mic holder to the ball mount? Thanks!

 

[geanes]

I love the radio setup! I think I am going to end up doing the same thing. How did you mount the mic holder to the ball mount? Thanks!

For now, I had a spare RAM Diamond Ball mount. I simply took the the little mic holder that comes with the radio and stuck it on the base of the diamond mount (the holder comes with 3M tape attached to it). It held up all weekend here in TX in 98 degree temps and bouncing on rough gravel for over 300 miles. Seems plenty sturdy for now. I'll keep messing with the setup until I get it completely dialed in. Ultimately want to be able to have all my comms in close proximity to one another. I'm strongly considering moving the base unit into the armrest. It would be FAR less prone to dust in there vs in the back cab....plus, I'd have much shorter runs of CAT5 cable and power leads.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Ahem...

 

[Magnetic 111]

The results look very clean and neat.

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The fit and finish are very good. The only setback I had this morning was dropping a nylock nut down into the depths of the engine bay never to be seen again So I had to make a run to Lowe's for it's replacement.

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The test drive went beautifully. There is now a V8 growl under acceleration where once it sounded like a Tesla.

I've been on the fence regarding this intake for years!! I hear good things (slight increase in hp), and not so good. (dirty MAF, etc) I'm really curious what your long-term opinion will be. I've used those kits before, and I want one for my LC, but still not sure if it's worth the cost. ($300 plus last I looked)

 

[Eighteen11R]

I've been on the fence regarding this intake for years!! I hear good things (slight increase in hp), and not so good. (dirty MAF, etc) I'm really curious what your long-term opinion will be. I've used those kits before, and I want one for my LC, but still not sure if it's worth the cost. ($300 plus last I looked)

Thanks again to a younger Mudder here for the generous price after the sale of his LC...
I have never had a problem @Magnetic 111 with K&N on almost everything I've owned. Apparently, USAA says I've insured 44 vehicles with them since '80...and I've done K&N in all but three.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Was it a metallic flake? I like the contrast you're getting in direct light.

Thanks, yup it is metallic. It was the wet-sanded and polished clear coat that brought that metallic flake out.

 

[OwnerCS]

Ahem...

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Looks familiar.

 

[Eighteen11R]

Received my Rhino Rack Base Kit for my Pioneer Platform retrofit. Jumped into it this morning while it was still cool. Thanks so very much to all for the inputs gleaned from MUDDERs here. Your experiences and guidance provided a pretty seamless install of the Base Kit (6) in total.

Understanding the how-to removal of the gutter molding made access much easier. On our '05 LX there is no plastic cover to remove to expose the center section bolt-down area. Per the guidance of several I trimmed away a piece for the center base to fit. Also per guidance, I used a very good Marine Grade RTV around all the openings prior to applying the Gashet Washers (12) next to the gutter openings...I hope I've used enough to prevent leakage.

Things went together very nicely. It made perfect sense to build the twelve bolts, washers and rubber O rings in advance, making sure there were two M8 x 40mm Button Head Screws for each middle mounting pad. The ends were requiring the M8 x 50 mm BHS. I only had one glitch during the install. The rear BHS on the driver side middle pad wouldn't let me hand tighten it into the hole. My Allen wrench wasn't up to the task so I came back to it after fitting all the rest with my persuader. I Love My Dewalt... I think the screw saw it coming and went right in where it was supposed to...

As has been mentioned by others, there are some air gaps between the mounting pads and the gutter molding trim but once the Pioneer Platform is in place, nobody will be the wiser. I, like others here, thought we would see some tighter tolerances as the prices might indicate.

Now I need some support from my 19 year old son to help prep the Pioneer Platform and hoist it into place.

Cheers Again Mates For This MUDDY Place. More to follow. G

 

[jLB]

Ahem...

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Looks familiar.

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Now I'm starting to feel left out

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Looks familiar.

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Hey @OwnerCS I need some advice - I had Zuk install the locker in a spare diff, so my truck is drivable in the meanwhile.
I am expecting the front diff to be delivered on Monday and I am leaving for a trip on Thursday. How long should I realistically expect the whole job to take?
I am assuming I have to disconnect the upper and lower BJs, pull out the CV axles, remove mounting brackets for the diff and pull it down, take off the driver side extension and then reassemble in reverse order? Also, run the cable harness.

Now I'm starting to feel left out

I bought a used front diff and had Ken at GearInstalls.com install a Harrops e Locker in it so I can minimize the down time. You can buy mine once I have the replacement installed.

 

[OwnerCS]

Hey @OwnerCS I need some advice - I had Zuk install the locker in a spare diff, so my truck is drivable in the meanwhile.
I am expecting the front diff to be delivered on Monday and I am leaving for a trip on Thursday. How long should I realistically expect the whole job to take?
I am assuming I have to disconnect the upper and lower BJs, pull out the CV axles, remove mounting brackets for the diff and pull it down, take off the driver side extension and then reassemble in reverse order? Also, run the cable harness.


I bought a used front diff and had Ken at GearInstalls.com install a Harrops e Locker in it so I can minimize the down time. You can buy mine once I have the replacement installed.

That's a good way to do it with a spare diff. Mine has been apart for too long while I did the rack, upper/lower control arms, and the works. I work on it in 2 hour increments on weekends. If you can work uninterrupted, you should be able to do it in two or three days. One day to take it apart and another to reinstall and then the wiring. That is providing you have all of the other parts you need. I like to give some time in the event something goes wrong if I had a trip scheduled.

I think the ball joint process would be like changing CV axles + pulling the front diff. .

We need to check with @mdcoa about the break in period and wiring. I picked this up from the manual below

If installing a new ring and pinion with your ELocker, proper break-in will help extend performance life. Avoid wide-open throttle starts for the first 80 kms. Avoid trailer towing for the first 800 kms. Once a gear set pattern has been established (typically within 160 kms) corrections will not be effective.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

That's a good way to do it with a spare diff. Mine has been apart for too long while I did the rack, upper/lower control arms, and the works. I work on it in 2 hour increments on weekends. If you can work uninterrupted, you should be able to do it in two days. One day to take it apart and another to reinstall. That is providing you have all of the other parts you need. I like to give some time in the event something goes wrong if I had a trip scheduled.

I think the process would be like changing CV axles.

We need to check with @mdcoa about the break in period and wiring. I picked this up from the manual below

If installing a new ring and pinion with your ELocker, proper break-in will help extend performance life. Avoid wide-open throttle starts for the first 80 kms. Avoid trailer towing for the first 800 kms. Once a gear set pattern has been established (typically within 160 kms) corrections will not be effective.

Since this was a used front diff - no fresh break in is required. I am just not sure if I will have enough time to do everything and still have a couple of shake down runs
Perhaps it is just wise to wait until after the trip!

 

[OwnerCS]

Since this was a used front diff - no fresh break in is required. I am just not sure if I will have enough time to do everything and still have a couple of shake down runs
Perhaps it is just wise to wait until after the trip!

I would wait until after the trip. If you suddenly need to order an unexpected part, then it ruins the trip.

 

[mdcoa]

That's a good way to do it with a spare diff. Mine has been apart for too long while I did the rack, upper/lower control arms, and the works. I work on it in 2 hour increments on weekends. If you can work uninterrupted, you should be able to do it in two or three days. One day to take it apart and another to reinstall and then the wiring. That is providing you have all of the other parts you need. I like to give some time in the event something goes wrong if I had a trip scheduled.

I think the ball joint process would be like changing CV axles + pulling the front diff. .

We need to check with @mdcoa about the break in period and wiring. I picked this up from the manual below

If installing a new ring and pinion with your ELocker, proper break-in will help extend performance life. Avoid wide-open throttle starts for the first 80 kms. Avoid trailer towing for the first 800 kms. Once a gear set pattern has been established (typically within 160 kms) corrections will not be effective.

I know @ClassyJalopy doesn't need to break his in, but here's ECGS's guide on breaking in fresh R&Ps (although you should check with your builder--since it was freshly set up with new [hopefully tighter than factory] tolerances, you may want to do some weak-sauce version of the below--maybe reach out to the builder?).

New Gear Break-In Procedure

New gear sets <b>MUST</b> be broken in correctly to prevent damage. Not following proper break-in procedures will lead to overloading and overheating the ring and pinion as well as breaking down and ruining the gear oil. Not following proper break-in procedures can be determined during...

eastcoastgearsupply.com

As for time required, two days is probably _plenty_ (if you have the right pullers should your ball joints refuse to release, and an impact wrench to get them to get back together when they want to spin away from your ratchet). Could probably be done in a day barring any super-stubborn ball joints or anything. If you've pulled the hub knuckles and changed CV axles before, you're looking at that plus probably 45 min to undo and drop the diff, and probably an hour to get the new diff up there and bolted up (that's how long it took me anyway, IIRC--harder to get the diff moving against gravity than with it . . . and that was with a gracious wife operating the floor jack). Then assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Don't bother fighting cone washers and undoing hub flanges--some folks say to do that, but the FSM doesn't, and it's not necessary.

I tried the "leave the lower BJ still connected and wrestle the axle back and out" method but couldn't get the axle out of the knuckle for the life of me.

For wiring, if you're in a hurry to hit the road and don't need the locker, you could just zip tie the harness under the hood and hang down the business end (I zip tied mine to my raised breather line) and connect it to the diff and leave everything else disconnected. Depending on your under-hood setup and how you choose to get switched power, all the wiring can be done in probably 1-3 hours. Getting one more wire through the firewall was the only thing that took me a minute. . . but it's pretty straightforward, esp if you mount the relay under the hood somewhere and already have an accessory fuse box.

Feel free to PM me with any questions--having _just_ done this I might provide something helpful. . .

But, yeah, unless this a journey you have no hope of completing without a front locker, I'd wait til you're back. . .

 

[saucebox]

Don't bother fighting cone washers and undoing hub flanges--some folks say to do that, but the FSM doesn't, and it's not necessary.

I tried the "leave the lower BJ still connected and wrestle the axle back and out" method but couldn't get the axle out of the knuckle for the life of me.

Also replaced the front diff assembly recently—getting the flanges out gives you enough room to wrestle the CV axle out without doing the LBJs.

Axles were the worst part. Once those are out, the rest just drops down with a few bolts. Same for reassembly—maybe a couple hours to have the old out and the new one in (not counting the CVs).

 

[saucebox]

I would wait until after the trip. If you suddenly need to order an unexpected part, then it ruins the trip.

This is solid advice (that I never listen to myself, but should).

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I know @ClassyJalopy doesn't need to break his in, but here's ECGS's guide on breaking in fresh R&Ps (although you should check with your builder--since it was freshly set up with new [hopefully tighter than factory] tolerances, you may want to do some weak-sauce version of the below--maybe reach out to the builder?).

New Gear Break-In Procedure

New gear sets <b>MUST</b> be broken in correctly to prevent damage. Not following proper break-in procedures will lead to overloading and overheating the ring and pinion as well as breaking down and ruining the gear oil. Not following proper break-in procedures can be determined during...

eastcoastgearsupply.com

As for time required, two days is probably _plenty_ (if you have the right pullers should your ball joints refuse to release, and an impact wrench to get them to get back together when they want to spin away from your ratchet). Could probably be done in a day barring any super-stubborn ball joints or anything. If you've pulled the hub knuckles and changed CV axles before, you're looking at that plus probably 45 min to undo and drop the diff, and probably an hour to get the new diff up there and bolted up (that's how long it took me anyway, IIRC--harder to get the diff moving against gravity than with it . . . and that was with a gracious wife operating the floor jack). Then assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Don't bother fighting cone washers and undoing hub flanges--some folks say to do that, but the FSM doesn't, and it's not necessary.

I tried the "leave the lower BJ still connected and wrestle the axle back and out" method but couldn't get the axle out of the knuckle for the life of me.

For wiring, if you're in a hurry to hit the road and don't need the locker, you could just zip tie the harness under the hood and hang down the business end (I zip tied mine to my raised breather line) and connect it to the diff and leave everything else disconnected. Depending on your under-hood setup and how you choose to get switched power, all the wiring can be done in probably 1-3 hours. Getting one more wire through the firewall was the only thing that took me a minute. . . but it's pretty straightforward, esp if you mount the relay under the hood somewhere and already have an accessory fuse box.

Feel free to PM me with any questions--having _just_ done this I might provide something helpful. . .

But, yeah, unless this a journey you have no hope of completing without a front locker, I'd wait til you're back. . .

Thank you - this is exactly what I was hoping to hear. Ken @ Gear Installs did tell me that no break in period is required.
Good news is that I had the entire front end apart within last 2-3 months. New CV axles, new bearings, new ball joints/ control arms, and even the diff drop and front prop shaft! So hopefully everything will come apart easily. A smarter person would have probably done the new diff at the same time but here we are

As for the trip - the whole thing is designed for a group outing at a new area so having a triple locked truck would be awesome BUT I have wheeled this thing with both front and rear open diffs so I think I will be okay.

I will choose the safer route for now and just postpone the install until after the trip.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Time to rattle.