What didnI just buy? How will this get me closer to disk brakes? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 27, 2016
Threads
39
Messages
215
Location
Clinton ohio
I have read a bunch of threads and until Inactually do it I wont understand. Bought this axle locally will be at my house on Sunday. Can you help me understand what I will need to make this work on my stock 1970
Keep in mind this is my first experience with "birfs", boosters, and proportioning valves.
I will read more threads later but looking to be spoon fed

IMG_8450.JPG


IMG_8451.JPG


IMG_8452.JPG


IMG_8453.JPG


IMG_8454.JPG
 
Look at "knuckle rebuild" threads and videos. It's essentially the same, you'll just be swapping the inner axles, birfs, dust shields, knuckles and spindles into your existing axle housing. You'll want to make sure your rims clear the brake calipers as the older riveted rims won't.

If you are using your 72 axle housing it's worth it to do swap the parts, if you are using your 70 axle housing, it's probably easiest to swap the entire 76 axle into the truck.

There are a ton of differences between 72 and 70. The 72 will have a booster and dual circuit master cylinder that should work with the disc brakes if you add a proportioning valve.
 
Look at "knuckle rebuild" threads and videos. It's essentially the same, you'll just be swapping the inner axles, birfs, dust shields, knuckles and spindles into your existing axle housing. You'll want to make sure your rims clear the brake calipers as the older riveted rims won't.

If you are using your 72 axle housing it's worth it to do swap the parts, if you are using your 70 axle housing, it's probably easiest to swap the entire 76 axle into the truck.

There are a ton of differences between 72 and 70. The 72 will have a booster and dual circuit master cylinder that should work with the disc brakes if you add a proportioning valve.
Thanks homie thiught you would be sick of he texts haha
 
Nice find ,it should bolt right up the drive line yoke will need to be swapped and you may want to buy or borrow a flaring tool the old lines are 9mm and the disc brake stuff will be 10mm go through the birfs and bearings and get a good manual . This is going to be fun just take your time.
 
Thanks homie thiught you would be sick of he texts haha

I'm "watching" TV with my wife. If you've ever done trailer bearings, this job is pretty similar. Make sure you don't tear everything apart without noting exactly where the shims below the trunnion caps and steering arms go. Cone washers are fun too.
 
Be careful when handling these axles. They are heavy and have very awkward weight distribution. To top it off, the tie rod has been removed, making this one hell of a pinch point. Ask me how I know :bang:
20170322_190942.png
 
Not seeing any calipers.:frown:
 
Swap in the entire axle, then follow the rebuild instructions.
 
Just replace. Toyota rotors are notoriously thin to begin with.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom