WARN 8274...show what ya got! (3 Viewers)

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This is how it started.
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And this is how it's going. As far as I can tell all of the parts are here, and he included a new cable and battery cables.

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The rebuild kits started arriving today.
 
Last winch noob question for the night. The package included a massive roller fairlead. Is that "better" than the non-roller variety? Is it for steel cable and the other for synthetic?
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I would never weld a mount or a bumper to the frame. When I ran the plate it was on top of the frame. I used tow hooks on the frt leading edge of the frame and mounted the plate on top of the hooks, and i made spacers in the back too. The tow hook bolts held the bumper and the plate on. Personally, I do not use the frame extentions for the bumper. They screw up the approach angle. I drilled holes in the frame for the hooks. Another alternative would be to use angle iron to mount to the side of the frame. If you notice in my plate pic it has angle iron. I prefer running the cable thru the bumper like in my post #339 on page 17.
 
Where did you get the winch mounting plate? Did you cut the OEM fender for the fairlead?
There’s a seller on here that makes a really ideal mount for 40’s and I had him modify a detail on mine because it’s on a 55. It also required the 55 factory bumper extensions when they come with a pto driven winch.
Here’s the thread

 
There’s a seller on here that makes a really ideal mount for 40’s and I had him modify a detail on mine because it’s on a 55. It also required the 55 factory bumper extensions when they come with a pto driven winch.
Here’s the thread

That looks great. Does it fit inside/behind the stock bumper? Until I saw that I was resigned to the HFS bumper.
 
Last winch noob question for the night. The package included a massive roller fairlead. Is that "better" than the non-roller variety? Is it for steel cable and the other for synthetic?
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I like my roller fairlead. I bought it new, and it has only been used with synthetic line. Works super well, I have always been happy with it. I have another truck with a hawse fairlead and synthetic line, and it is always bunching up my line protector sheath when I use it.

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I've had this 8274 since maybe 2010 or so. Back then I just replaced the rusted out metal plug for the remote, cleaned it up some, resealed it and wound on some new steel rope. It's never been pretty but it has always worked. I cleaned it up again in 2019 and spooled on some synthetic line. It's always worked whenever I needed it. Here's how it looked when I recently pulled it off my 88 mini truck to put on my current build.

I originally thought it was from the 70's but the tag on the motor says 84.

I have a 9.5 XP motor and Albright contactor to install, new 2 AWG cables for the motor, heavy lugs and new cable boots on the way. I have new seals and bushings, one new bearing and a brake kit for it. I'll probably mod the drum end plate for the grease zerks too. The free spool shift fork has a lot of wear. I plan on building it back up by TIG brazing it with Aluminum Bronze filler rod.

The plastic solenoid cover is pretty beat but, I'm having a hard time buying one for what they want for them. Same for the decals, stupid money for a dang sticker. I'm undecided on whether I want to paint the housing or not. I might just glass bead it. :hmm:

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The plastic solenoid cover is pretty beat but, I'm having a hard time buying one for what they want for them. Same for the decals, stupid money for a dang sticker. I'm undecided on whether I want to paint the housing or not. I might just glass bead it. :hmm:

I ended up buying a new plastic cover from Warn 13 years ago when I did mine, and as I remember it was pretty stupid expensive even back then.

I've always loved the look of glass bead blasted aluminum; if I had a blaster I would do that in a heartbeat.
 
Some of these painted winches look great. But, I like fresh blasted aluminum too. Easy to clean off compared to paint that starts to peel and flake. Probably what I will end up doing. I'm recovering from a shoulder replacement and another surgery so I'm bored out of my mind and dying to get back out in the garage.
 
I bought a used 1 back in the 80's and used for a while, but eventually the solenoids started failing so I shelved it. I recently rebuilt it. The internal condition surprised me. The seals were shot and the internals were crusty. The po painted it silver and a lot of it had flaked off, but what was left was a pita to remove. I mostly used various grits of scotch Brite pads along different mild strippers & cleaners. I'm happy with the results and glad I didn't paint it.
 
I have to say, after spending the day cleaning all the nooks and crannies, I wish I had a blaster cabinet. It would have made quick work of the caked on dirt. It looks way better than it did before, but I have to agree with y'all that the bare aluminum is classic.
 
@gnob, NO THANKS!! The one you did looked AWESOME!!!! HOWEVER, I do NOT want to go through all that work to do it and I sure DON'T want to maintain that shine.

I had a B&M blower on my 4x4 Suburban. AS CAST aluminum blower, manifold, valve covers and timing cover. When it got dirty I hit it with orange citrus and hosed it clean. And I didn't need my shades to look at it. ;)

I'd take that polished one you did if you gave it to me though.
 

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