Using Stock Subwoofer Wiring (1 Viewer)

[harrisonmonroe]

Ok ... please no "use the search function" because trust me I have. If someone can link me where I missed it I'll eat crow.

I have a drop in 6.5" sub that I am trying to get to work. I cannot test the stock amp because the "always on power" (Red/Black) doesn't have 12v. The ignition (gray) does, it is grounded, and both signals work.

Sony head unit.

Any ideas?

 

[Brindleboxer]

I used my stock wiring, removed the factory pigtail and adapted to the woofer, I believe I posted pictures in this thread Subwoofer Options... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/subwoofer-options.952649/page-3#post-14883720 about rear subwoofers, and installed into the factory bracket. I never expected it to thump, the goal was to have some sound and not the crackling that existed from the deteriorated factory speaker.

Note: I do think most people bypass the factory stuff since the watts are really subpar.

 

[sbman]

I'm in the middle of all that with my install.

But you need more to provide more details. Which year is your truck? Is it an LX450 or Land Cruiser? Where are you trying plug the sub into? How is your sony wired up, are you using the existing toyota external amp or is the sony driving the speaker directly?

If you've got a 97 Land Cruiser with the 6 speaker, remote amp system, see my diagram at:

Updated stereo install, JVC KW-M788BH 6.8" touchscreen w/steering wheel controls (yes another audio upgrade thread!) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/updated-stereo-install-jvc-kw-m788bh-6-8-touchscreen-w-steering-wheel-controls-yes-another-audio-upgrade-thread.1320216/post-15111859

On the 96/97, the Red/Black is a switched 12V signal that is AMP turn on signal, not a power source wire. Power should be sourced from gray (accessory power) and the 'remote' function on the amp fed the Red/Black signal. If the sub is more than about 50W, you should source power externally. The gray wire can only supply 15A total, and it's powering other circuits besides the radio.

 

[simple]

I'll say it. Your wasting an effort, the stock amp probably puts out less power than your Sony head unit. Get a powered subwoofer and connect it via RCA to the Sony head unit. You can then control the EQ, crossover, gain etc

The stock 90s Toyota stereos sounded like garbage from new even if it had speakers all over the cabin.

 

[harrisonmonroe]

Thank you all for the info. Updates...

94 LC with 9 speaker system > 4 doors > 2 knees front > 2 headliner rear > 1 sub rear

If I bypass the little amp then it is shooting full range to the sub which isn't ideal.

Simple...you're right, but I don't want to run power and rca honestly. Trying to do this as painless as possible. I just cannot seem to figure out why the constant power is dead but everything else works to that rear wiring harness.

 

[sbman]

The factory system sends speaker level signals to the rear mounted subwoofer amp, with the front mounted external amp enabled or disabled it doesn't matter. The sub signal is off the rear speakers, there is no line level signal sent back there.

Power for the subwoofer amp is the grey wire, that's +12 switched (accessory) and red/black is the 'remote turn on' signal, not constant 12V, so you won't see constant 12V there. There is no constant 12V present on connector W6. It's possible your Sony remote turn on output isn't wired up into the AMP+ signal like it should be. Does the 94 have a power antenna? Does it go up/down automatically?

The signals on W6 are:

1. Red (+ RIGHT REAR SPK FROM stereo or front amp)
2. Black (+ LEFT REAR SPK FROM stereo or front amp)
3. Red/Black (Amp Remote from stereo or front amp)
4. Light Green/Black Sub Speaker +
5. White (- RIGHT REAR SPK FROM stereo or front amp)
6. Yellow (- LEFT REAR SPK FROM stereo or front amp)7.
7. N/C
8. N/C
9. Gray (ACC PWR +12V)
10. Light Green/Red SUB -

W6 is a 10 pin connector located in the right rear quarter panel that plugs into the factory sub woofer amp.

That's assuming it is the same wiring as the 96, not sure if anything changed from 94.

If your new amp and sub that you are trying to mount in the rear requires more than about 5 Amps (50 watts RMS w/losses) or requires RCA line level signals, you just can't use the factory wiring.

 

[harrisonmonroe]

The factory system sends speaker level signals to the rear mounted subwoofer amp, with the front mounted external amp enabled or disabled it doesn't matter. The sub signal is off the rear speakers, there is no line level signal sent back there.

Power for the subwoofer amp is the grey wire, that's +12 switched (accessory) and red/black is the 'remote turn on' signal, not constant 12V, so you won't see constant 12V there. There is no constant 12V present on connector W6. It's possible your Sony remote turn on output isn't wired up into the AMP+ signal like it should be. Does the 94 have a power antenna? Does it go up/down automatically?

The signals on W6 are:

1. Red (+ RIGHT REAR SPK FROM stereo or front amp)
2. Black (+ LEFT REAR SPK FROM stereo or front amp)
3. Red/Black (Amp Remote from stereo or front amp)
4. Light Green/Black Sub Speaker +
5. White (- RIGHT REAR SPK FROM stereo or front amp)
6. Yellow (- LEFT REAR SPK FROM stereo or front amp)7.
7. N/C
8. N/C
9. Gray (ACC PWR +12V)
10. Light Green/Red SUB -

W6 is a 10 pin connector located in the right rear quarter panel that plugs into the factory sub woofer amp.

That's assuming it is the same wiring as the 96, not sure if anything changed from 94.

If your new amp and sub that you are trying to mount in the rear requires more than about 5 Amps (50 watts RMS w/losses) or requires RCA line level signals, you just can't use the factory wiring.

SBMan! We're getting somewhere and that makes total sense. Ok so I'll check the 3. RB for signal with the radio on correct? If remote is wired then it should send signal to that harness at 12v with the radio on right? If not I just need to connect the remote to the back of the Sony? THEN, if it still doesn't work I assume it is a stock amp issue at that point.

I want to use the stock wires and amp. (yes I know it is weak but I just want a sub to work so I dropped in a cheap 6.5" sub that fit perfectly)

Antenna works manual only. No Auto. Honestly I didn't even know it went up automatically until you just mentioned it.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I'll say it. Your wasting an effort, the stock amp probably puts out less power than your Sony head unit. Get a powered subwoofer and connect it via RCA to the Sony head unit. You can then control the EQ, crossover, gain etc

The stock 90s Toyota stereos sounded like garbage from new even if it had speakers all over the cabin.

this^

 

[harrisonmonroe]

this^

Yes but see above

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Yes but see above

lot of effort for basically zero gain.

 

[sbman]

SBMan! We're getting somewhere and that makes total sense. Ok so I'll check the 3. RB for signal with the radio on correct? If remote is wired then it should send signal to that harness at 12v with the radio on right? If not I just need to connect the remote to the back of the Sony? THEN, if it still doesn't work I assume it is a stock amp issue at that point.

I want to use the stock wires and amp. (yes I know it is weak but I just want a sub to work so I dropped in a cheap 6.5" sub that fit perfectly)

Antenna works manual only. No Auto. Honestly I didn't even know it went up automatically until you just mentioned it.

I think that you found the issue. I didn't understand until now what it was you are actually trying to do. Just replace the old sub woofer (factory) with a new physical speaker/woofer, hooked up to the original factory terminals.

There are two options for aftermarket stereo install, you can use a two connector kit that hooks up directly to the stock speakers, or a 1 connector kit that brings RCAs out to plug into the Sony.

Your Sony is probably installed to 'bypass' the factory amp (which is a good idea). This uses a two connector harness kit (two connectors plug into the cruiser) and on yours the remote wire probably isn't hooked up from the Sony to the factory system. The factory front amp should have been unplugged if this is how your stereo was installed, but I'm guessing the installer chose to just not hook up the remote wire instead of dealing with unplugging the factory amp and that's also why your antenna won't auto. It's located directly behind the passenger dash speaker. Make sure the factory front amp is unplugged, hook up the remote wire and both your antenna and your rear factory sub should start working.

 

[harrisonmonroe]

I think that you found the issue. I didn't understand until now what it was you are actually trying to do. Just replace the old sub woofer (factory) with a new physical speaker/woofer, hooked up to the original factory terminals.

There are two options for aftermarket stereo install, you can use a two connector kit that hooks up directly to the stock speakers, or a 1 connector kit that brings RCAs out to plug into the Sony.

Your Sony is probably installed to 'bypass' the factory amp (which is a good idea). This uses a two connector harness kit (two connectors plug into the cruiser) and on yours the remote wire probably isn't hooked up from the Sony to the factory system. The factory front amp should have been unplugged if this is how your stereo was installed, but I'm guessing the installer chose to just not hook up the remote wire instead of dealing with unplugging the factory amp and that's also why your antenna won't auto. It's located directly behind the passenger dash speaker. Make sure the factory front amp is unplugged, hook up the remote wire and both your antenna and your rear factory sub should start working.

Boom! Shots all around. Thanks a ton. No auto antenna (which I prefer anyway) and as you all noted I’m not winning any bass competitions but that wasn’t the point. I wanted it to work.

Thanks!