Under 8 MPG

[sbman]

Actually, I don't know for sure what the stock tire size was that were put on them/mine in 1992, the 31x10.5 is what was on it when I bought it and they seemed to correlate with the odometer. I've only had the 35's on now for about two weeks, but I've been using it as my daily since then and I'm on my 3rd tank of gas, so the 200 miles/tank was thus far a "lucky" scenario.

The door card with the tire pressure info should also give the OEM tire size that it shipped with.

 

[elripster]

It was probably a 275/70 R16 which has a static diameter slightly over 31" so a 31X10.5 would have the speedo pretty much spot on.

Frank

 

[Devils Paw 80]

It was probably a 275/70 R16 which has a static diameter slightly over 31" so a 31X10.5 would have the speedo pretty much spot on.

Frank

I believe he has an FJ80 with the 15" wheels. They're the same style as found on 90's 4Runners and 4WD pickups. They look cool IMO.

 

[elripster]

4.11s are stock
And it really depends on the tire, very few are what they say on the side wall.
But that’s another thread

I meant 4.56's and 35's resolve to the correct speed reading on the dash. Was typing too fast, didn't proofread. Yes 4.11 is the stock ratio for sure.

 

[elripster]

I believe he has an FJ80 with the 15" wheels. They're the same style as found on 90's 4Runners and 4WD pickups. They look cool IMO.

That's a good point. I think I saw a reference to a 275, that might have been for the 15" wheel. Can't recall, too many years, too many beers.

I apologize, I know we are getting off topic. Just maybe killing time until we hear what the shop has to say.

Frank

 

[AK Troutbum]

The door card with the tire pressure info should also give the OEM tire size that it shipped with.

So stock for my cruiser were 235/75r15 according to the sticker on the door. So, approximately 29".

 

[ozarkmud]

This. Probably not the source of your issue, but possibly a contributing factor. If you are running LT tires and inflated to the P metric PSI you can see an 8-10% mileage hit from being under inflated. Factory pressure spec is only applicable to factory tire spec.

There's no way that a stock rig should be getting 8 or 9 MPG just because it has LT stock tires that are inflated to P tire pressure.

I'm seeing 14 MPG, consistently, with 265/75R16 (a hair taller, a hair narrower) LT E-rated tires. I am sure they're not anywhere near 45 PSI.

Now it might make some % difference, sure, but it doesn't explain 8-9MPG.

 

[JoeCova]

There's no way that a stock rig should be getting 8 or 9 MPG just because it has LT stock tires that are inflated to P tire pressure.

I'm seeing 14 MPG, consistently, with 265/75R16 (a hair taller, a hair narrower) LT E-rated tires. I am sure they're not anywhere near 45 PSI.

Now it might make some % difference, sure, but it doesn't explain 8-9MPG.

Did you not read the first sentence? But you should be getting closer to 16-17 with that size

 

[Broski]

There's no way that a stock rig should be getting 8 or 9 MPG just because it has LT stock tires that are inflated to P tire pressure.

I'm seeing 14 MPG, consistently, with 265/75R16 (a hair taller, a hair narrower) LT E-rated tires. I am sure they're not anywhere near 45 PSI.

Now it might make some % difference, sure, but it doesn't explain 8-9MPG.

Is this rig not turbo?

 

[jjdeneen918]

Ok, hopefully found the source of the rough idle at cold & bad gas mileage!!!

The shop called me today & stated one of the wires going into the MAF had come loose from the connector.

Said it’s better now.

I should have it back to me sometime this week. I’ll then put a full tank of fuel through it & report the results!

 

[jjdeneen918]

Called the shop yesterday. They said the rig was finished & I could pick it up. They fixed the MAF wire & said a sensor in the head was bad, replaced, & was “purring like a kitten”.

I finally got to the shop & picked up the cruiser late in the afternoon.

Went to run a short errand this morning.
Fired up the rig, it immediately started running with a very low idle. 400-500RPM’s, engine sputtering as if about to die, & P0130 engine code came on.

WTF!

 

[jjdeneen918]

I did some around town driving. Checking gauges (OEM, ScanGauge II, & JRP 14in1), some observations:

Operating temp about 150-155 degrees.

Open Loop ALL the time.

AFR is at 20.0 (max of gauge) at idle & off throttle. Mid 17’s at 2000 RPM’s. Lowest it got was 16.8.

Sporadically at stop, throttle pulsing between low 400 RPM to mid 600’s. Put into neutral, idle is steady at 600-700’s.

In park, idle in 800’s.

Reset the P0130 code mid ride. No deviation in driving characteristics.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Road test #2.

Engine is coming out of open loop & into closed loop.

AFR’s are looking way better. 17’s at idle & 14.5-15 at throttle.

I did get the surging RPM’s, while in drive, at idle/red signal light. Engine did stall itself this time.

New engine code illuminated. P0500 (VSS sensor).

I’m hypothesizing the ECU is learning, as I’m sure battery was disconnected while at the shop/work being performed.

But am concerned about the new code & engine stall.

Will update with next test, if any changes.

 

[CharlieS]

Why not take if back to the shop asap and have them fix whatever they messed up.

 

[elripster]

Might make sure the 12v battery is charged and healthy. If the truck sat with the battery dead the battery could be toast and you will see issues at idle when the alternator voltage is low. I agree more driving is good. That can potentially avoid going down unnecessarily rabit holes.

Frank

 

[jjdeneen918]

Why not take if back to the shop asap and have them fix whatever they messed up.

Closed on the weekend, it’ll be going back for sure. I didn’t pick it up til late Friday afternoon.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Test #3:

Stayed in open loop.

AFR’s the same as test #1 also.

I did turn it off at a red signal, restated, & it went back to closed loop & normal AFR’s.

So very strange.

I’ll get it on a battery tender in the morning.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Might make sure the 12v battery is charged and healthy. If the truck sat with the battery dead the battery could be toast and you will see issues at idle when the alternator voltage is low. I agree more driving is good. That can potentially avoid going down unnecessarily rabit holes.

Frank

Put the rig on the battery tender this morning.

Checked on it 15 minutes later, said it was fully charged.

 

[calokie]

Put the rig on the battery tender this morning.

Checked on it 15 minutes later, said it was fully charged.

Did you do the ole "pull the EFI fuse for 15min" trick?

 

[jjdeneen918]

Did you do the ole "pull the EFI fuse for 15min" trick?

I did not try that hack this weekend.

It’ll be going back to the shop today though. They can diagnose, fix, or perform any such wizardry they need to correct this problem.

They had it for probably a month to get this correct. 3 engine codes, rough idle, surging accelerator while stopped, & stalling all within a day of getting it back is pretty much bullsh!t.