Would buying a new upgraded valve body be worth it for an old engine of will it be a can of worms? I remember reading a pretty in depth article for the 80 about 5 years ago in a Peterson 4wd magazine, iirc, about one company that made these for more hp more torque engines, and have been looking into it. Will these put the pep and torque back in my vehicle. Any insight is appreciated. Experience is usually worth more than gold.
Transmission valve body upgrade.
- Thread starter Bleu62
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Better money spent on your motor mate, your changes will be more positive, but you won't create any more effort, just smoother
It may actually be perceived as harsher or firmer shifts.
Which are you looking at?
I'd be tempted to try the transgo shift kit for under 200 before Rodney's at well over a grand.
Search here for it as a few folks have installed and documented.
Scottryana is one
Which are you looking at?
I'd be tempted to try the transgo shift kit for under 200 before Rodney's at well over a grand.
Search here for it as a few folks have installed and documented.
Scottryana is one
I installed the Wholesale Automatics (Rodney's) Nomad (stage 1) transmission in my A440F recently and a Biilet HD low stall toque convertor and it was awesome, as close as you can get to instant lockup and smooth, fast gear changes, but it will not make a worn out motror go better.
A couple of Rodneys valve bodies for sale in AZ for both a 440 and 343
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ov...dcruiser-camping-toyota-scottsdale-az.849582/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ov...dcruiser-camping-toyota-scottsdale-az.849582/
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/
Tell them how you use the truck and how you want it to shift and you won't be disappointed.
Tell them how you use the truck and how you want it to shift and you won't be disappointed.
IPT (see above) did mine and I've been happy with it. Cost was in between that of Transgo and Wholesale Automatic 
Like mentioned already, it won't do any magic for a tired engine though.
Like mentioned already, it won't do any magic for a tired engine though.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,204
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
If the shifts are are softer than you prefer, the trans is adjustable to firm them up, reduce slipping.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/improving-transmission-shifting.349909/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/improving-transmission-shifting.349909/
- Thread starter
- #9
jfz80, I was looking at Rodney's nomad stage one kit.
Also, I may be wrong in assuming my engine is not the one to blame here, but my engine still revs nice and smooth and other than a small bit of water I had in the fuel system recently. I've never had a problem with the engine. But since I drove her from the outer banks of NC to the spit of Homer Alaska she seems to not know what to do when going up a hill. Anything you point it at in low is no problem it's just the higher speed ascents. It's like it has the power just doesn't know what to do with it.
Also, I may be wrong in assuming my engine is not the one to blame here, but my engine still revs nice and smooth and other than a small bit of water I had in the fuel system recently. I've never had a problem with the engine. But since I drove her from the outer banks of NC to the spit of Homer Alaska she seems to not know what to do when going up a hill. Anything you point it at in low is no problem it's just the higher speed ascents. It's like it has the power just doesn't know what to do with it.
Don't waste your money on the valve body just yet. If you want to see if it is the transmission that has aged. Do like Tools says, pull the trans pan and turn the pressure regulator to see if increasing the pressure will give you what you think will help.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,204
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
Depending on year/model of the rig (this appears to be a secret 
) the shift timing maybe controlled by the ECU, if so, none of the kits will have an effect on it. Lucky the rig is equipped with a shifter, allowing the operator to select whatever gear is felt to be appropriate for the conditions.
) the shift timing maybe controlled by the ECU, if so, none of the kits will have an effect on it. Lucky the rig is equipped with a shifter, allowing the operator to select whatever gear is felt to be appropriate for the conditions.
I have heard this is theoretically possible but I've never actually heard of a real example.
If this were true, how could an owner ever replace the hose itself for simple maintenance purposes? This statement sounds silly to me.
The problem is supposedly if you let the fluid get too low and suck in air, but I think you'd have to run it a long time that way.
- Thread starter
- #17
I was told this by a wrench turner that has built and rebuilt loads of motors and I generally take him at his word. But I've never heard of anyone having a problem w this way of changing fluid. The reason I asked was bc I change my trans fluid this way and was wondering if this was why I was looking into the valve body in the first place. I'm no engineer so I thought I'd put it here.
i changed my trans fluid NOT ON PURPOSE while driving through new york city when the idler pulley finished sawing through the cooler line after a hard stomp on the gas torqued the engine over on old mounts. i lost about 6 quarts by it spraying all over the engine bay and turning into smoke. changed the hose and mostly refilled and its still fine. and i drove home a few quarts low.
I prefer the old drain and fill over time method. Pull the drain plug. 4qts comes out, put 4qts back in and do this the next 5-6 oil changes and you are good to go.