Transmission Crossmember Question (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

DoubleNickels

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 21, 2014
Threads
120
Messages
1,188
Location
Ketchum, Idaho
Say hey MUD

Working on converting my FJ62 from auto tranny to four-speed manual (H42). I have a question about the transmission crossmember. The four-speed I have came with isolaters that are flat on the bottom. Like so:

20200705_181100.jpg

Now, the shorter transmission crossmember I picked up and was intending to use is V-shaped. Like so:

20200705_181024.jpg


I thought that this cross member came from a late eighties FJ60 but… perhaps I am wrong? Regardless, my question is this... Do I need to get a new crossmember (flat to match) OR can I procure isolators that are V-shaped to match the crossmember I have?

Fully aware I'll still need to fabricate some pieces to mount crossmember to frame. Also fully aware that the real value would be an H55 swap, but let's not get distracted here.

Thanks for your help!

Calvin
 
The crossmember in your picture is from an earlier cruiser. A 1986 FJ60 transmission crossmember is shown below. I don't know which one adapts the best to the FJ62

image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
Thx Output. Any idea about compatibility of the isolaters? It may be easier for me to get isolaters than the correct crossmember, at least within driving distance.
 
Another question is, what bellhousing are you using?
Assuming you're asking in relation to the slight rotation (3-degrees?) that was implemented at some point. The info here on MUD and the interweb as a whole is conflicting. Please school me if you have info.
 
Need to get the correct crossmember for the bell housing. Not sure if the isolator itself is different, but the early crossmember is designed to go with the 2f bellhousing, not the later 3f one.
 
Assuming you're asking in relation to the slight rotation (3-degrees?) that was implemented at some point. The info here on MUD and the interweb as a whole is conflicting. Please school me if you have info.

You have the later “3F” bellhousing that, yes, rotates the trans slightly. The later one piece crossmember @OSS pictured in post #2 accommodates this rotation, the later crossmember also fits the flat trans mount that you pictured.

The crossmember you have is the earlier 3 piece design, you have the center section, do you have the two curved pieces that attach to the frame? As you can see it requires a curved type trans mount/isolator as well, and it does not account for the bellhousing tilt.

Bottom line, you should source the later one piece crossmember that matches the 3F bellhousing and trans mount.
 
agreed your best bet at this point is to acquire the 85-87 crossmember.
 
I've never checked, is the 62 crossmember different than the late 60 crossmember???
 
Yerp. It sits further back and hence is much wider, under the auto, and the mounting points for the isolators are both narrow and v- shaped. I'll take a Pic for reference.

EDIT: NOT V-Shaped, but yes wider with unique isolator spacing. But you got me thinking - perhaps I can modify. Thanks. I'll still report back with a pic.
 
Last edited:
I’ve encountered this with the cast iron vs aluminum bell housing for the 3B. The cast iron bell housing needs to be matched to the 3-piece design while the aluminum bell housing is matched with the flatter support/angle change. The bend of the correct shifter is matched to the corresponding bell housing and transmission mount too by the way.
 
Thanks, but I believe I'll need an FJ60 model. I too have the 3FE fj62 one - way too wide and the holes for the isolaters are spaced to close.
 
Say hey MUD

Working on converting my FJ62 from auto tranny to four-speed manual (H42). I have a question about the transmission crossmember. The four-speed I have came with isolaters that are flat on the bottom. Like so:

View attachment 2362560
Now, the shorter transmission crossmember I picked up and was intending to use is V-shaped. Like so:

View attachment 2362559

I thought that this cross member came from a late eighties FJ60 but… perhaps I am wrong? Regardless, my question is this... Do I need to get a new crossmember (flat to match) OR can I procure isolators that are V-shaped to match the crossmember I have?

Fully aware I'll still need to fabricate some pieces to mount crossmember to frame. Also fully aware that the real value would be an H55 swap, but let's not get distracted here.

Thanks for your help!

Calvin

Silly questions - but is this required b/c there are no rear mounts at the back of the engine block?
Does this mean you need a 4 speed from a 60, so it will accept the isolaters?
I ask b/c my 3FE in my 55 has engine mounts back by the bellhousing.
 
This is what I’ve gathered regarding the transmission mounts, bell housings:

3B(cast iron) & 2F(cast iron) Bell housings:

one-piece transfer case/transmission supported at the bell housing
or
split-transfer case/3-piece transmission mount, angle bottom isolator

3B(aluminum) & 3F(cast iron) Bell housings:

one-piece flattened transmission mount, 3 degree-clock, flat bottom isolator, different bend in shifter

@PabloCruise did you keep the 4-speed and one-piece transfer case?
 
Last edited:
Ahh bless you my son. I did the same swap. It's great. Get taller tires though as the RPM's increase dramatically. Shout out if you need any more help along the way.
 
Ahh bless you my son. I did the same swap. It's great. Get taller tires though as the RPM's increase dramatically. Shout out if you need any more help along the way.

Hah! Will do. So far the biggest surprise has been the pedal bucket. The write-ups fail to mention what a complete pain in the a$$ it is to detach and wriggle out, meanwhile avoiding wires, duct work, steering column, etc.

Please share some pics of how you mounted the crossmember, if you have time.

Calvin
 
@DoubleNickels my brother it is pouring rain here tonight but I will shoot you a couple of shots tomorrow.
Basically I did what @Paul DiNapoli did in this post.
I had to order my steel though, cost about $30 bucks.
I bolted the crossmember to the 4spd and raised it until it found it's spot on the frame. It will not be flush front to back. You can shim it with washers.
From there I drilled and tapped the frame and bolted the transmission in while I made the steel brackets. Paul's look nicer as I didn't shave mine to match. Also, unlike Paul I made 2 brackets on each side, an outer and an inner.
I will still send pics. It was a tedious process but hell I lost my job due to the pandemic so what else was I going to do?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom