That looks so familiar, i just finished that section of flooring in my tub. It looks great with the liner over it.
Dont forget your drain hole...
Dont forget your drain hole...
Toyotasaurus - '79 FJ45 Troopy Project (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Scrumpy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
Yeah slowly but surely
ah yeah true. im gonna paint some primer over it first, then have the liner over it later on. still got a couple of bits to weld on the underside of the floor, but it should be all completed soon
i'll be drilling a hole in roughly the centre of that floor, and have a rubber bung in it. so once it has the liner throughout the car, i can let it all out there
- Thread starter
- #83
Have sealed the whole car now inside and underneath. Covering my welds (after being treated of course) and fixing up any areas where the original sickaflex stuff was missing from underneath. should keep a fair bit of water out now. or even in! haha mind you, the passenger side floor pan was fixed by the PO, and that's why there's a bit more sealer in that area.
I'm going back out to work for 4 weeks in November, but at this stage I will look at cutting some doors, fixing the windscreen surround, and scuffing up the car, and painting some Primer onto it.
Slowly but surely
I'm going back out to work for 4 weeks in November, but at this stage I will look at cutting some doors, fixing the windscreen surround, and scuffing up the car, and painting some Primer onto it.
Slowly but surely
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2011
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- Location
- Harbour City, the New Southern Wales
- Website
- www.freewayoneentertainment.com
That drivers side pan looks the biz Scrumpy. I still recall the pain of doing mine ten years on. Ingenious fix with that little piece of trans tunnel.
Awesome resto!!! We're about 3/4 done on our hj47, great to see another troopy kept alive, but im must say that donor shorty broke my heart hahahahah "subscribed!!", just curious where abouts are you? I've got a shed full of troopy bits and pieces ( my dad calls it cruiser heaven) and they have no home, more than happy to donate to a good cause, I actually have a complete tub (82 hj) tied up on one wall in the shed! We were thinking about flat packing it for future use.
Cheers
Kellee
nothing like a lungful of diesel in the morning, hj47 bj40... alllll mine!!!!
Cheers
Kellee
nothing like a lungful of diesel in the morning, hj47 bj40... alllll mine!!!!
- Thread starter
- #86
i thought it looked the goods when i thought of it
haha cheers mate. I'm pretty happy with how I've gone so far, and it has only been 2 months since I officially started working on it! I'm on the sunny coast, 3hrs south of you. and yeah if you don't want the parts I can take them off your hands, if that's what you mean by 'Donate'
can you PM me a rough list of what you have? also if there's anything you need, just ask and i'll see if i have anything
- Thread starter
- #87
Minor sort of update
prepped and primed the Interior floor. covered in Epotec Primer now, then later on will be sanded back and ready for ute liner once I decide which one to get.
will be going on holidays over the new year, so updates will be minimal.
have a good chrissy all, and an awesome new years
prepped and primed the Interior floor. covered in Epotec Primer now, then later on will be sanded back and ready for ute liner once I decide which one to get.
will be going on holidays over the new year, so updates will be minimal.
have a good chrissy all, and an awesome new years
Troopy restoration
Excellent work and I am enjoying watching your progress! I have a few questions for help with my FJ40 '67. What are you using to prep the body panels for paint? You said wire disk /grinder but the areas look like a high speed sanding wheel. Next, in the last photo of the rear tub, is that the OEM beige you decided to go with for the exterior too? Finally, what do you plan to undercoat it with to protect all that nice body work? Thanks for any advice/tips and I'll keep reading your build!
Excellent work and I am enjoying watching your progress! I have a few questions for help with my FJ40 '67. What are you using to prep the body panels for paint? You said wire disk /grinder but the areas look like a high speed sanding wheel. Next, in the last photo of the rear tub, is that the OEM beige you decided to go with for the exterior too? Finally, what do you plan to undercoat it with to protect all that nice body work? Thanks for any advice/tips and I'll keep reading your build!
- Thread starter
- #89
thanks mate! I am actually just using a wire wheel to take off all the paint and undercoat. it also helps to get rid of rusty areas and clean them up. Using the sanding disc/flapper disc tends to take too much off, although i did use it on a few panels, and to clean up the welds etc.
That last photo is the undercoat I will be using. It is a Protec brand and has worked quite well. should seal it up nicely. http://www.protec.com.au/
I'll be painting the outside of the car with the same primer once I panel beat, and bog some rougher areas, and get them nice and flat. I'll be using a 464 Landcruiser Beige type on the outside, and possible something similar on the inside, but in a ute/bed liner product.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #91
Short update. Have booked Toyotasaurus in to get the roll bars and rear seat mounts built and mod plated for road use. going to cost ~$1800 to get it all done and signed off. That is all happening in 3 weeks time when i get back from work.
Also trying to prepare and bog the outside of the truck so I can paint it too, but it's too hot/humid here in Queensland at the moment, and the bog goes off too quickly. Will have to try it at night time when it's marginally cooler.
Also picked up a rust free Windscreen surround, minus all the wiper motor etc. The other 2 I have are rusted out.
He'll be starting to take a bit more shape in 3 weeks time
Also trying to prepare and bog the outside of the truck so I can paint it too, but it's too hot/humid here in Queensland at the moment, and the bog goes off too quickly. Will have to try it at night time when it's marginally cooler.
Also picked up a rust free Windscreen surround, minus all the wiper motor etc. The other 2 I have are rusted out.
He'll be starting to take a bit more shape in 3 weeks time
- Thread starter
- #92
Here's a mock up of the rear seats
- Thread starter
- #93
Been waiting for this moment for a while now. Have finally sent him off to the engineers to get the roll bars and seats mounted, and also signed off and blue plated. should be done in around 3 or 4 days
- Thread starter
- #94
He's back from the Boily/Engineer and looks awesome! Pretty happy with what they've done with it, everything works out well. It's pretty much exactly what I wanted It all unbolts for removal, including the rear seats, so I can get the liner in there and spray it up etc.
BMV Engineering built it. check them out on FB.
PICS PICS PICS
It all unbolts for removal, including the rear seats, so I can get the liner in there and spray it up etc.BMV Engineering built it. check them out on FB.
PICS PICS PICS
Looks great! Is this mostly for a soft top?
-Daniel Kent
-Daniel Kent
- Thread starter
- #96
cheers mate. yeah mainly for the soft top so it has some supports through it. also have to have it so that the seatbelts have somewhere to mount to etc.
Sweet cage. The rig is really coming together nicely now
- Thread starter
- #98
Long time, no update. Finally got some time off work, so I'm back into it again. First up: Tailgate
took me a little over half the day to knock this up. 25 box steel with that gal coating (i think) and some 5-6mm plate i grabbed for work for where i want the hinges to bolt to. still have to weld a sheet of steel for the outside face, but this will do the trick nicely.
the L + R edges are gapped to roughly 1.2 mm (cutting disc width), witht he bottom edge gapped to 3.4 (grinding disc). using the discs made it that much easier.
my brother also picked up a pretty well f#$%ed factory softop troop with a tailgate, but the hinges and side catches/latches still work fine! so i'm going to use them on this
soon this will be done, get my doors cut and shut, then final prep then to paint etc.
Pic
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8427/3g6r.jpg
took me a little over half the day to knock this up. 25 box steel with that gal coating (i think) and some 5-6mm plate i grabbed for work for where i want the hinges to bolt to. still have to weld a sheet of steel for the outside face, but this will do the trick nicely.
the L + R edges are gapped to roughly 1.2 mm (cutting disc width), witht he bottom edge gapped to 3.4 (grinding disc). using the discs made it that much easier.
my brother also picked up a pretty well f#$%ed factory softop troop with a tailgate, but the hinges and side catches/latches still work fine! so i'm going to use them on this
soon this will be done, get my doors cut and shut, then final prep then to paint etc.
Pic
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8427/3g6r.jpg
- Thread starter
- #99
Finally finished the doors today. and with that done, I have now no more real rust repairs to do!
Capped the top of the doors right at the standard height. No, i don't want to cut the angle into it, because it is more comfortable for me to have my arm resting higher on the door, rather than lower than it is. It may look dicky, but I can always work around that.
The capped tops
the bottom sections
Capped the top of the doors right at the standard height. No, i don't want to cut the angle into it, because it is more comfortable for me to have my arm resting higher on the door, rather than lower than it is. It may look dicky, but I can always work around that.
The capped tops
the bottom sections
