Have you gone offroad with the middle row storage? If so, did you have any issues with noise? I've been working on something similar and have been debating the material selection (aluminum frame and plywood exterior) due to noise concerns.
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- #142
Yes and not really*
I did a few trails around Moab and Swell with that exact setup. Lots of washboards and rock crawling.
I put the asterisk because I had a folding awning, camp chair, table, gear, ect... strapped down in the back so I heard all sorts of terrifying noises from the cargo area. It's a very secure setup so I'm pretty sure the only noise from the actual storage unit was from the lid that's only held on by clamps (for now). The connectors and aluminum are very secure because, while screwing in the MDF boards, I put the screw though the wood, into the metal and into the connector so it's very sturdy and yet very lightweight.
For mounting I used threaded J-Hooks on either side hooked around the OEM seat mount bar thing and through the aluminum bars on either side. The bars lined up perfectly with the seat mounts. That worked very well. I'd like to place another mount towards the front but it's not going anywhere as it is.
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Once I get done with this 600 piece order for AU and SA we are headed back to AU for about 3 weeks and I will finally get to go to the tank manufacturer. I want to see the process, materials, fit/function and quality in person. I've spoken to a tank builder here (MN) and all his tanks are robotic welded. He is working up a price on a 100 series and 60 series tank for me now. I sent him a used tank of each to make sure everything was positioned and fit correctly.
These will be aluminum with an secondary steel belly plate. Cross and layer baffled as well per my request.
Maybe I'll look at a 200 if the ones in AU aren't what I like. Just not sure the limited volume will warranty the $$. The company has a 10 tank minimum for new set ups and then 5 per order there after.
Just time and money.
J
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- #144
Well if one of those 90L tanks ended up in your checked baggage I wouldn't be upset
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Well if one of those 90L tanks ended up in your checked baggage I wouldn't be upset
HA! have to buy it a seat... Before we left I got most of the tailgate lid mocked up. Only have a few details to finish up and then I can send it to the cutters. They are dragging their feet on the skid plates for some reason...
J
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- #146
The UCA rubbing has gotten to my nerves when at full lock in parking lots, so I ordered a set of SPC UCAs.
@Willy beamin What castor settings are you using on your SPCs? I'm determine to make these 35s work with minimal rubbing. They've grown on me.
@Willy beamin What castor settings are you using on your SPCs? I'm determine to make these 35s work with minimal rubbing. They've grown on me.
I thought you already had SPCs. Are you running stock UCA's?
By the way... I'm running SPC's and it still rubs slightlyat full lock...
@MScruiser any idea what your caster setting is? @TonyP sorry man im not sure but i tagged someone who might very well know the answer.
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- #149
Nope, I'm on stock uppers. I'm guessing yours rubs less than this with SPCs? Hopefully? Any idea what your SPC's setting are?
Perfect! Thanks!
I believe I listed the alignment specs in the tundra suspension swap thread. If not, a quick Google search for "socal Chevy tundra alignment" should yield the info.
When you put on the SPC arms, talk to the alignment shop. You can move the wheel forward/rearward to get more clearance. The procedure is in the SPC instructions.
Those rear tires are stuffed, may want to add extended bump stops to keep from rubbing.
Truck looks great.
When you put on the SPC arms, talk to the alignment shop. You can move the wheel forward/rearward to get more clearance. The procedure is in the SPC instructions.
Those rear tires are stuffed, may want to add extended bump stops to keep from rubbing.
Truck looks great.
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- #151
Yup. I read through the instructions. Just trying to get a baseline of where to start with settings. I can always just fiddle with it. Changing the settings is pretty easy.
The rears don't rub at full tuck so I should be fine for now.
yeah a tank is a big item on my list right now. I'm prepping my rig for a trip across russia to Mongolia. One thing I want is plenty of petrol peace of mind. Guess I'll just order a Lone ranger. I'll be contacting you. I want you to do my bumpers and some other things we can discuss. I saw this thread and your front bumper the other day and have been trying to find it for days. Didn't remember your name and Biz but fell in love with that bumper
Jim Lowell
I've been searching all over for someone who's successfully removed the rear seats and fooled the airbags! Are the resistors you used 1/4 or 1/2 watt or something else?
Thanks!
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- #154
I used 2.2 ohm resistors, 1/2 watt, 6 cents each.
wow....glad I read this. I plan on removing my rear seats also.
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- #157
Keep in mind this is for 2nd row.
yeah...I'm with ya. I have no need for the 2nd and 3rd row seats. It's Just dead weight I want to get rid of.
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- #159
SPC UCAs are in. Easy install. Only "pain" was removing my 2nd battery to fish the PS bolt out. Went with the 0* castor and fully out camber setting. Pics were taken prior to tightening the top nut so yes, they aren't cambered out in the pic. NO MORE RUBBING!
Not pictured, threw some POR15 on the sliders where I scraped to the metal. I'm good to go for next week.
Not pictured, threw some POR15 on the sliders where I scraped to the metal. I'm good to go for next week.
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