TJM Sump and Transmission Guard (1 Viewer)

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dogdaysindurham

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Aug 24, 2011
Threads
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Location
Laguna Beach CA
Got my TJM Sump and Transmission Guard from Dirty Parts. It's been really hard to find pictures of them on the net. Might drill some more holes for venting.

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Looks great! I looked up the prices and they seem very low. Can you give us a link to the ones you bought? How thick are they?
 
They are 3 mm thick (0.118 in or so?), which is just a hair under 1/8". The powder coating isn't so great as I had a small corner piece scraped up during shipping and I can pick at paint with it pretty easily lifting up. I think I'm going to blast it and paint with rust bullet. Then fluid film everything.

I believe justdifferentials has several on order, but they weren't sure when they would be in. They don't list the TJM stuff on their website, but they can order pretty much anything in the TJM catalog. I think pricing wise with shipping justdiff would have been slightly less expensive (about 50 or 60).

Where I got it. Shipping was 90 from Cali to NC, FWIW.
http://www.dirtyparts.com/store/detail.cfm/TJM-SUMP-GUARD-LC-100-SERIES/pid-87609
http://www.dirtyparts.com/store/detail.cfm/TJM-TRANS-GUARD-LC-100-SERIES/pid-100264

I will scan the TJM provided install instructions when I get a chance later this week. What transmission guard only covers 2/3 of the under frame if that makes sense. The 3 holes you see in the triangle pattern are for the OEM plate. Oh and just skimming the instructions, the sump guard doesn't need any additional drilling, but the transmission guard (partial belly plate) does need them (to secure it to the sump guard). One thing I noticed is that the sump guard doesn't seem to use the 3 bolts in the front like the OEM one. I need to see how it lines up as the SLEE one does.
 
I have the TJM sump guard on mine and noticed that the drain hole isn't under the drain plug.
 
Do you think they will hold up to abuse? That's not thick, but then again neither is the stock skids and they have kept my fluids in the motor so far.
 
I don't do hardcore wheeling, but just wanted more protection when I go camping / beach driving out at the Outer Banks. Plus the dealer broke the middle plate and left it off / not telling me.

Maybe Wilsil can comment on the TJM robustness.

I think Slee plates are 3/16 in (so 4.76 mm). Not sure how think the AFIK plates are, I think they are aluminum but 5 or 6 mm in thickness. Those might be better for hardcore wheeling.
 
I don't do hardcore wheeling, but just wanted more protection when I go camping / beach driving out at the Outer Banks. Plus the dealer broke the middle plate and left it off / not telling me.

Maybe Wilsil can comment on the TJM robustness.

I think Slee plates are 3/16 in (so 4.76 mm). Not sure how think the AFIK plates are, I think they are aluminum but 5 or 6 mm in thickness. Those might be better for hardcore wheeling.

They are cheap enough to buy two of each and just double up :lol:
 
Regarding that square transmission guard, does it include any mounting brackets or does it just bolt up as is? Also, why does it have an X bent into the middle? Thanks for the pictures!
 
From what I can tell you have to drill (3) 8 or 9 mm size holes in front end (which is the side opposite the one with the triangular holes & vertical arranged holes). This fixes the transmission plate to the sump guard (front skid). They provide the hardware to do this. I believe you have to have the sump guard to be able to mount the transmission plate. this only covers 2/3 rds of the undercarriage unlike the Slee / BIOR / AFIK from what i can tell. The triangular holes would like up roughly with the center of the transfer case / driveline?

The rear end of it looking at the schematic is aligned with the right side of the OEM support plate. Unlike the Slee tranny guard, this one requires the OEM support and doesn't replace it. The triangular holes are for the transmission OEM skid plate. I'm not sure if this covers it all completely or if one still needs the little OEM transmission plate. I think spressomon made his own reinforced plate before any aftermarket ones were available.

Not sure about the X bend, it's pretty shallow.
 
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Interesting why they want you to drill the holes when it's supposed to work with their own sump guard.
 
Do you just need these 2 to protect the whole underneath? Seems worth a try for $200 and offers more protection than stock.

I believe so. But you might want to fab a piece to cover the 1/3 of the rear area that isn't cover by this transmission guard (something I might do). Probably won't get to mess with it until the weekend and use some cardboard as a template for the different drain plugs that will be covered with the new plates.

Going head in to work and scan the install instructions, but the pictures aren't uber clear. If I have time will try and make a picture / diagram showing what I mean.
 
They are cheap enough to buy two of each and just double up :lol:

No doubt! I hope some other folks that have it can post what mods they have done with the plate. I know in the "What have you done to your truck thread" there was a guy that said he just installed the TJM sump guard and made some mods. Was going to post some pictures when he got a chance.
 
Ya that was me. I forgot to get around to it. I think I have a few pics. I'll see if I can get them up today. I drilled a couple new holes for mounting. Elongated a couple existing ones and drilled some new access holes for the oil drain plug and zerk fittings. It's pretty obvious what you need to do if you install them.

It's definitely better than stock and obviously not as good as the SLEE. It functions perfectly for my needs. Powdercoat is holding up fine but it's a skidplate so I couldn't really care anyway.
 
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Wow. $200 bucks. I think these will be my next purchase.

As for the X, I'm sure it gives it just enough added strength to keep it from "oil canning". I have a bead roller and you'd be surprised how even a small bead in a big sheet of steel will give it significant rigidity.
 
Ya that was me. I forgot to get around to it. I think I have a few pics. I'll see if I can get them up today. I drilled a couple new holes for mounting. Elongated a couple existing ones and drilled some new access holes for the oil drain plug and zerk fittings. It's pretty obvious what you need to do if you install them.

It's definitely better than stock and obviously not as good as the SLEE. It functions perfectly for my needs. Powdercoat is holding up fine but it's a skidplate so I couldn't really care anyway.

How does the trans guard mount? I see the 3 holes for the OEM bolts, but I can't quite make out how it sits.
 
The front of the tranny plate sits on top of the front skid. They overlap quite a bit and then bolt to each other. Carl posted pics in the vendor section.

Correction: I see he didn't actually post any with the tranny guard installed. Give me an hour or so and I'll post up some pics.
 
The front of the tranny plate sits on top of the front skid. They overlap quite a bit and then bolt to each other. Carl posted pics in the vendor section.

Correction: I see he didn't actually post any with the tranny guard installed. Give me an hour or so and I'll post up some pics.

Sweet. Thanks.
 
Might take longer. I just found out my wife left the camera sitting with a dead battery. I'll get them up asap.
 
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I added the oval hole on the left so I could access the grease fitting on the propeller shaft. The round hole in front of the oval hole on the right was added under the oil pan drain plug. I have a Fumoto drain valve otherwise I would have made the oil drain plug hole larger.
 
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