Timing Belt Nightmare (Help)

[spd11]

My 2002 with 190,xxx miles started running rough the other day when I pulled into the driveway after a short trip. I ordered new timing belt, water pump, etc. and took everything apart. Turns out taking it apart was the easy portion.

I marked the old belt before removal and transferred marks to the new belt (even though the new factory belt had marks on it already). The marks lined up from the old belt to the new belt. The problem was, when I got back to the car to test fit the new belt I was a solid notch off between the cams. I shifted the passenger cam a hair to get it back to where it was when I took the belt off (I took pictures and it seems to have moved around one notch to the left after I removed the timing belt the first time). After I got the belt to fit the cam pulleys I slipped it over the crank - now the belt is a solid notch off at the crank.

Here's where the fun really starts - I tried to force the new belt onto the right grooves at the crank and somehow managed to slip and rotate the drivers' side cam around 35 degrees.

I'm nearly at wits end on project timing belt - is there a simple fix for this or am I biting off more than I can chew?

Any help is greatly appreciated - any snide comments are welcome, but I can assure you the self loathing is doing the job just fine.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Have you looked at the FSM or any of the write up's here?
100-series FAQ
90K and Starter replacement job
Timing Belt for Dummies writeup

 

[Somebodyelse5]

If you do a search, there are some FSM pdf's floating around, or I have a hard copy of the FSM for a '99 if you need me to send some pages, let me know.

 

[spd11]

I've been through the timing belt for dummies (not dumb enough).

The FSM has been helpful, but not foolproof.

My real questions:

1) If the old belt permitted one of the cams to skip a notch - is there an obvious solution for that?

2) can I rotate that drivers side cam back to the neutral timing position on its own? If so - how?

 

[Porter]

Having done this a year ago, I remember using a ratchet to realign the cam, after it moved forward. Just muscling it back with a ratchet and a cheater bar worked for me, I don't think I had to pull the plugs to relieve pressure, but that could assist as well. Not sure I'm following your description of "skipping a notch". It just took a little bit of patience and the requisite cursing (always necessary for job completion). Nice feeling when you crank it back up, and everything works. I'm confident you'll get it right with the links provided above.

 

[spd11]

Can I rotate the cam counterclockwise to where it was? Or would I have to rotate clockwise and, if so, how many rotations?

 

[marcfj60]

When it started running rough, did the check engine light come on? When mine starts running rough, it's because an ignition coil has gone bad. I guess it's too late for this piece of advice since you're now battling timing gear alignment. But once you get things aligned and started up, you might still have a rough running engine with a bad ignition coil.

 

[aging fleet]

My cams rotated off their timing marks when I took my belt off too, just rotate the cam counterclockwise back to where it needs to be (assuming they rolled clockwise). If you rotated the crank during all of this, you'll want to get it back it its TDC mark.

Once the cams are where they need to be, get the belt situated on the cam gears (I'd use the factory timing marks on the belt, make sure the arrow is pointing the right direction), I think I used clamps or zipties to hold the belt on the cam gears while routing the belt around the crank.

That said, @marcfj60 has a point, the roughness may have just been a bad coil-pack or ???. Don't freak out if you still have a rough idle after the timing belt job, just be prepared to pull codes.

 

[2001LC]

Following FSM step by step is best. Keep in mind the "T" is not your timing mark.
I posted some helpful pictures and tips in this thread: Something timing belt-ish failed May be worth reading the whole thread. Picture are from the VVT engine, so don't let that throw you. The timing marks are the same.

 

[REZARF]

Leave the pulleys a little loose too, it'll give you some wiggle room, and maker sure the tensioner grenade pin is installed. Don't rotate the cams counter clockwise (per the FSM).

 

[REZARF]

It really should slip on once you get it all lined up. I used a small pry bar to get the last bit onto the pulley.

 

[nissanh]

Whatever you do, BEFORE you start the engine, spin the engine (with spark plugs off: makes it easy to spin) with the help of a wrench.

When I did mine, the first on a V8, I had the cam sprocket marks to the 12 O clock (to match the back plate marks) and crank sprocket notch to match the "dot" on the oil pump housing. That's all.

After you are done, spring the crank with hand to find a smooth rotation.

What is the make of the belt?

 

[2001LC]

I would not pry on timing belt. I do a little cheat to make install easy. I put tensioner and or idler pulleys on after belt set in place. Just keep eye on belt, that it doesn't move off marks of sprockets. Then once all pulleys on and tensioner set (pin pulled) inspect marks again and test rotate. Remember your belt white line arrow marks will no longer line-up at timing marks once rotated, but all three sprockets must be dead on after a test 360 degree rotation/spin of the crank.

See post # 135 for picture with belt on pulleys off. Timing belt install starts at post 128 Scored a 06 LC (untouched Jewell restoration) Lots of tips to make job go easy.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I recently did my belt and was surprised how tough it was to line up the belt. The cams want to live anywhere but TDC so they easily slip to one side or the other with a tremendous force that ripped off some skin that I planned on keeping attached to my hand.

I used cheap little spring clips like this to hold the belt onto the first cam gear where it should be once I got it there: https://images.homedepot-static.com...f4536be31000/svn/hdx-clamps-80001-64_1000.jpg

I then used the cam gear bolt on the other cam gear with a breaker bar to move the cam back and fourth as required.

I wouldn't worry about your old belt location. Focus 100% on the new belt and FSM specs. As 2001LC mentioned there are potentially confusing marks so be sure you follow the right ones.

Once you have it assembled it will be easy to tell if you're wrong. Just carefully follow the FSM diagrams and roll it over by hand once you have it on to ensure it doesn't bind up if you were somehow way off.