Time for AHC removal - advice? (2 Viewers)

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Does anyone have the part number for the plastic container thingy that goes in place of the AHC switch?
 
Another quick update: cleaned the comfort-sport switch
When stationary the systems damping doesn't change from step 8s regardless of the switch position, unless you're in test mode. To check the comfort switch is working correctly you need to do the signal input test or monitor its status through Techstream where it's labelled SW1 and SW2. Above 3 mph it stays in your selected damping position regardless of pushing the brake whilst it test mode.
Has anyone mentioned yet that you need to know what your pressures are and get them back down to optimal?

Ah, useful info. I suspected that my comfort switch may have been dirty, so I disassembled it and cleaned the contacts last night. The contacts were greasy and full of gunk, so I figured that this might be the root cause. Cleaned with alcohol and reassembled. I'll try going for a drive tonight and see if the switch makes a difference now. Thanks for your help!
 
Update on my last post: took a drive and there was no improvement from before. I think my next step is to get a knockoff miniVCI cable and install WinXP on my laptop. Will report back with techstream data.
 
Hey folks, I finally got techstream up and running. Here's a screenshot of my AHC live data page: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

This was captured with the key turned to "ON" but without the engine running. There were no stored AHC DTCs, but the front, rear, and accumulator pressure all appeared as 0. This isn't normal, right?

I was able to confirm that there isn't a problem with my comfort-sport setting switch. Changes to this switch appear in the live data.
 
This was captured with the key turned to "ON" but without the engine running. There were no stored AHC DTCs, but the front, rear, and accumulator pressure all appeared as 0. This isn't normal, right?
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Yes, no pressure data with the engine OFF and not raised from L to N is normal.
To read your pressures get yourself on flat ground, engine running and raise from L to N. Do this several times to ensure you're getting consistent readings. Now your pressure readings must be taken in context with any weight variations to stock and actual measured vehicle heights at the front and rear wheels. Search and read (start at the end and work back) the thread "definitive list of AHC maintenance items" for a better understanding of what you're trying to measure and achieve as it's been covered just once or twice ;)
 
Update: Connected techstream and read my pressure values. They were a bit high, but within spec. It only took 1.5 turns on the driver side and 0.5 turns on the passenger side to get everything level and closer to spec (6.9 front, 6.5 back). Also had my GF ride along and stare at techstream while I drove along. The front/rear wheel step were all correct. I had the switch in the softest position, and they were hovering around 2-3.

So far, I've figured out:

  • 11 graduations from low -> high
  • Comfort/sport switch functions correctly
  • Neutral pressure is good
  • Neutral height with engine running is good
  • No DTCs
  • Fresh fluid
  • Techstream is indicating proper cycling through steps based on speed + switch setting
  • Ride is still very unpleasant
I also tried a curb drop test, mentioned in the definitive AHC thread. None of the wheels seemed to oscillate very much after the drop. The bump was absorbed and dampened well. Does this rule out blown accumulators?

My issues are similar to what others have reported where large amplitude bumps are absorbed well, but small amplitude bumps and overall vibration/harshness is seemingly transmitted directly to the driver seat with basically no dampening :( Things like cracks in the road, expansion joints, and rough asphalt are brutal, whereas large potholes and speed bumps are absorbed very well.
 
Not sure what state your sway bar bushes and links are in but doing a refresh on mine front and back improved the ride considerably, mine where shot though. What tire pressures are you running? Make 100% sure there is no air in system.
 
FWIW, I am running tech stream on a 64-bit windows 10 laptop... we no longer have to go back into the dark ages.
 
Why would damping step work in h mode but not n or l mode?
 
FWIW, I am running tech stream on a 64-bit windows 10 laptop... we no longer have to go back into the dark ages.


How did you achieve this??

I recently installed the Techstream 32 bit on my 64 bit windows 10 and had to run it through virtual box and it was unbearably slow. I uninstalled it just now and am thinking about trying the advice in this link:


Thoughts?
 
Did anyone keep the globes after the AHC delete. If not, what did you use to cover the globe screw on the car?
 
Did anyone keep the globes after the AHC delete. If not, what did you use to cover the globe screw on the car?
Bro, five different threads with the same question? Find a stopper that fits at home depot. Or tape. Or do what everyone else does when they delete AHC, remove the entire system.
 
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Bro, five different threads with the same question? Find a stopper that fits at home depot. Or tape. Or do what everyone else does when they delete AHC, remove the entire system.
Wasn’t sure which one I was going to get a reply from. But thanks for the advice
 

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