I am without intercooler...
The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
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I am without intercooler...
Oh. Looks like we will be almost identical then! I'm thinking about doing a custom intercooler next year.
Thoughts on advancing timing kit?
Got a link so we can see the whole page?
I have been looking at this recently.
Have a look at your pump. Mine has an Allen key grub screw in the end.
I'm not sure if this would adjust the range for the dynamic advance, or the rate of change or both.
Have a look at your pump. Mine has an Allen key grub screw in the end.
I'm not sure if this would adjust the range for the dynamic advance, or the rate of change or both.
I've been playing with mine some more lately whenever I get some time. I got the shim out of there so the pin moves deeper into the pump last time I posted, but had completely backed off the starwheel in my previous tuning efforts, meaning fuel dumped in hard when it came on boost, but pin travel was limited by the remaining shim. So it wasn't extending further than I wanted, just going to full fueling sooner than it needed to, resulting in a puff of black that clears quickly during the day, and a heavy haze with headlights behind me at night under full throttle, and some big grins. I'm now winding the starwheel back up until the exhaust clears up, or the performance drops off, whichever comes first.
I'd peg the performance gains at 15-20% over the previous tune, it's much more fun to drive, and much more eager to be driven enthusiastically. Low boost and constant load is unchanged, but as boost comes on so does the fuel now, and it goes nicely. I'm able to lead traffic from a red light at medium throttle now, whereas it was a full throttle job before. Makes maneuvers in traffic much easier, and highway passing is greatly improved, the new tune would bus length the old tune at highway speed. I'm averaging 18.4mpg over the last 10 tanks, including my tuning pulls from stop to 120km/h.
A few pics showing my pin travel, I'm repainting the pin and cranking the starwheel up about 3/4 full turn at a time, until I see pin travel reduced, or performance reduced, and back it off to final setting. With that done I'll turn boost down to 18psi and roll like that until I get the Gturbo installed, likely spring.
![IMG_3118[1].JPG](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1919' height='1439' viewBox%3D'0 0 1919 1439'%2F%3E "IMG_3118[1].JPG")
I'd peg the performance gains at 15-20% over the previous tune, it's much more fun to drive, and much more eager to be driven enthusiastically. Low boost and constant load is unchanged, but as boost comes on so does the fuel now, and it goes nicely. I'm able to lead traffic from a red light at medium throttle now, whereas it was a full throttle job before. Makes maneuvers in traffic much easier, and highway passing is greatly improved, the new tune would bus length the old tune at highway speed. I'm averaging 18.4mpg over the last 10 tanks, including my tuning pulls from stop to 120km/h.
A few pics showing my pin travel, I'm repainting the pin and cranking the starwheel up about 3/4 full turn at a time, until I see pin travel reduced, or performance reduced, and back it off to final setting. With that done I'll turn boost down to 18psi and roll like that until I get the Gturbo installed, likely spring.
Sounds good.
At some point, you should put a polish on that pin where you've ground it. There's a lot of wear and tear here, grinding marks well accelerate wear.
At some point, you should put a polish on that pin where you've ground it. There's a lot of wear and tear here, grinding marks well accelerate wear.
Will do, the grinding was not done by myself.
Sorry, all I could find was a FB page
If your playing with your timing you should be effeciently intcooled at the least.
Hi!
I believe that was in this thread that some discussed the pressure setting on the injectors. ( So much info that I'm not really sure if it was here...)
Anyway... Something that I would like to learn is the aim, benefit or results of setting the injectors to more or less pressure.
Cheers
I believe that was in this thread that some discussed the pressure setting on the injectors. ( So much info that I'm not really sure if it was here...)
Anyway... Something that I would like to learn is the aim, benefit or results of setting the injectors to more or less pressure.
Cheers
I have a similar stack of washers in my pump. These were installed when my pump was rebuilt and bench tuned. I was told by @yotahed that the shims were there to limit max fueling. If I needed more on boost fuel I was to remove a shim or 2 until my egts and afr were decent. He also mentioned not to adjust the fuel screw for topend fuel only remove washers. The pump was tuned for 20 psi on the bench and worked very nicely. I upped my boost to 25psi and was running alittle lean so I removed 1 washer and am pretty close. 23:1 wot. Egts 1150F. Your results would seem to agree with mine.
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So i've been trying to get through all the pages here, but i'm having a hard time finding the info i need.
I figured out already that i'm supposed to pull the fuel pin out of the pump and re-profile it, but is there a side-by-side photo of a before and after of that somewhere in all these pages that someone can point me to?
also i read somewhere on here that one could use the internals from a DMax pump? apparently has 13mm plungers rather than the 10mm that comes in ours? anything on this?
and finally, is there really no company that just sells an upgraded pump i can put in, or an upgraded fuel pin i can drop in??
if not, then someone should jump on that as a business, low overhead and a lot of people im sure would buy it, i'd be a customer lol
I figured out already that i'm supposed to pull the fuel pin out of the pump and re-profile it, but is there a side-by-side photo of a before and after of that somewhere in all these pages that someone can point me to?
also i read somewhere on here that one could use the internals from a DMax pump? apparently has 13mm plungers rather than the 10mm that comes in ours? anything on this?
and finally, is there really no company that just sells an upgraded pump i can put in, or an upgraded fuel pin i can drop in??
if not, then someone should jump on that as a business, low overhead and a lot of people im sure would buy it, i'd be a customer lol
Anything ever come of this spring data @Cape York boy ?
I have been tinkering with the pump. I could not really get the travel I wanted out of the old spring (19mm) so had two new ones (26mm and 30mm) made ($35 Cairns Spring works, free plug, good to deal with and can make anything). I also tested the springs to see how the performed under pressure as well as the original spring. Put the data into a graph because everyone likes a pretty picture.
View attachment 1135626
Atleast I know exactly what the springs do. Reckon I will end up using the 26mm spring as it gives about 12mm of movement. I couldn't test any higher than 22lb because the cooking scales I used maxed out so there is actually a few more mm of travel in the two custom springs. The original is just about maxed. and to get the university to test them is about $1000. DOH.
Anyway. With more pin travel makes it easier for me to fine tune. I might change later to a stiffer spring that will help tune for 24lb. With the longer spring the start height is obviously high as is the height at which it fully compresses but you get more travel inbetween only 8mm for original and over 10mm for the 26mm spring.
I will be running about 24lb boost and these spring will handle no drama. You can get custom springs made easily and then its just trial and error.
Smoke screw removed and a ground down bolt that does nothing inserted. Starting position is completely determined by AFC which with the bigger spring is completely wound down to the base. More fuel will be needed. I will keep adjusting until too smoky off boost. Wind up AFC to lean out AFRs until more boost kicks in.
On a side note I have been trolling through the various forums: cummins, diesel performance, turbo dodge etc. These guys have RIDICULOUS pumps. I got the diesel shop to set mine to 50% more fuel or roughly 93cc. They are getting pumps pushing over 600cc on some 1st gen cummins.They are not daily drivers though, but still.
Baffles me why this info has not yet filtered through to the Toyota fans. Fear perhaps?
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I'm still floored how much this thread has taken off.
I think all my tuning at this point is pointless till I get an intercooler. I will just have to keep my foot out of it to keet EGTs in check. Pedal to the floor at 20 psi no matter what it's just too hot. If I start pulling fuel it slows it down in the rest of the rev band. Will eventually get my wideband installed and get hard numbers.
30 minutes after saying I'm done messing with my tune and I order a cap and pin.
Are the pins all the same profile? Or are there different profiles available like I've seen for the Cummins pumps? What does that cap do that the OEM one doesn't?
The cap is taller to allow more movement of the pin. However, they usually use a custom spring and shims to eliminate the star wheel. I ordered one pin, 8mm. You can order an individual pin or the tuner pack with one of each. The mm measurement is how much material is left in the pin. The lower the number the more fuel. I chose the least aggressive because I can always grind it deeper and leave my stock pin alone. He said you can also remove the pin and install varying diameter drill bits and cap off the boost line to determine the amount of depth the following pin needs to move to hit your target AFR at full boost. I guess the profile is all the same, just the depth is different.
For reference $1.4 NZD = $1 USD
