- Thread starter
- #581
Thanks, I considered this but it won’t work there with my vintag air ac/ heater unit.
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Build "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta
- Thread starter Tank5
- Start date
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Ahhh, ja, that might interfere. Let me get a pic of mine in place to give you an idea
Here you go. My loom comes out under the glove box and then routes directly across the firewall, so it's a nice easy straight shot up to ecu
- Thread starter
- #584
It is not necessarily the ECU that is in the way but the harness routing to get it into position to plug into the ecu. The Vintage Air unit hugs up really close to the bottom of the glove box, your mounting option wouldn't work with the Vintage Air unit there is no room for the harness. I also would not want to have to remove the AC/Heater to access it either. Thanks for the pictures, it is good to see what others are doing.
Ja, I can see that. This is actually the first time I've re mounted the ecu in position since I started making the loom and I just realised I made the branch that goes to the ecu a bit long
gonna have to fix that. How much space does that ac unit take up?
- Thread starter
- #586
Look at post #525 on page 27 of my build thread. There are pictures of when I mocked up the AC/Heater unit.
- Thread starter
- #587
The custom radiator showed up. I had the transmission cooler built into it with the ports on the bottom and the drain hole moved to the driver side to keep it out of the way of the transmission lines.
I am worried about the lines rubbing where they pass through the support, so I added a mount to secure them to reduce the movement. I will add some abrasion wrap on the lines on final assembly as well.
My upper radiator shroud will have to be modified, it doesn’t clear the upper radiator hose.
I am worried about the lines rubbing where they pass through the support, so I added a mount to secure them to reduce the movement. I will add some abrasion wrap on the lines on final assembly as well.
My upper radiator shroud will have to be modified, it doesn’t clear the upper radiator hose.
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Is that a Mark Davis radiator?
- Thread starter
- #589
It is a Ron Davis radiator.
Oops! That’s what I meant. It looks great!
- Thread starter
- #591
Where to place the battery? I spent more time thinking about this than I probably should have. I considered under the truck mounted to the frame but couldn’t find a place I liked. There is plenty of room under the passenger seat since the gas tank is not there. I disliked the need to remove the seat to get it out though and I want to keep that space for tool storage. I really wanted it under the hood, so I have been laying out the various parts that need to go under the hood to see what I had to work with.
I started out with a stock FJ40 battery mount and cut the legs off and added some to fit my mounting location.
Hear it is installed. I intentionally angled the mount, so the rear near the firewall was a little higher to give me room to run the ac and heater hoses.
I just need to buy or build a battery tray to bolt to the mount.
I started out with a stock FJ40 battery mount and cut the legs off and added some to fit my mounting location.
Hear it is installed. I intentionally angled the mount, so the rear near the firewall was a little higher to give me room to run the ac and heater hoses.
I just need to buy or build a battery tray to bolt to the mount.
- Thread starter
- #592
I spent the night finishing up little things that needed done. One of those was making capture nut plates to fit in the frame rails to complete the mounting of the transmission cross member. I wanted to mark them to remember their side and orientation in the frame. I remember I had purchased some letter stamps/punches at a yard sale, they worked out perfect.
Anyone know where I can buy individual bolts like this these are old 40 series body mount bolts? The cone nose is nice for alignment.
I ordered Tom Woods DC drive shafts for the build that showed up today. The difference between the front and rear drive shaft length is only an inch.Sadly they built the front one an inch short. I will give them a call tomorrow to see how they want to fix it. 
They look nice and fresh though.
Edit: I talked to Tom Woods today and my shorter shaft is fine it is just going to show more of the spline than the the rear will which is where I got confused.
Anyone know where I can buy individual bolts like this these are old 40 series body mount bolts? The cone nose is nice for alignment.
I ordered Tom Woods DC drive shafts for the build that showed up today. The difference between the front and rear drive shaft length is only an inch.
Edit: I talked to Tom Woods today and my shorter shaft is fine it is just going to show more of the spline than the the rear will which is where I got confused.
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- Thread starter
- #593
Work has been busy, so progress on the 45 has been slow. I have been picking my way through the harness hear there and believe I almost have enough figured out to test start it. I pulled it all back out to to play with and test things inside.
The harness has been a learning process and I needed a break.
The transmission crossmember needed an adjustment it was made from 1/2 in plate and I was concerned it wasn’t strong enough.
Really the transmission mount bolts stuck below the plate a full in which I knew I would have to come back to address.
I had a piece of 3 x 6 x 1/4 inch steel tube, so I cut a chunk out and used the whole saw to cut access holes.
Cut, bend, weld, grind, finish and it looked like this.
Welded it on the crossmember to really stiffen it up and it covers the mounting studs perfect. The crossmember weighs 48 pounds and was fun to install by myself. I will probably end up building a skid for the tcase at some point too.
The harness has been a learning process and I needed a break.
The transmission crossmember needed an adjustment it was made from 1/2 in plate and I was concerned it wasn’t strong enough.
Really the transmission mount bolts stuck below the plate a full in which I knew I would have to come back to address.
I had a piece of 3 x 6 x 1/4 inch steel tube, so I cut a chunk out and used the whole saw to cut access holes.
Cut, bend, weld, grind, finish and it looked like this.
Welded it on the crossmember to really stiffen it up and it covers the mounting studs perfect. The crossmember weighs 48 pounds and was fun to install by myself. I will probably end up building a skid for the tcase at some point too.
- Thread starter
- #594
This weekend I tackled the ebrake. I opted to use the original 40 series e-brake handle.
It took three cables to make it work. I used the 80 series cable altered to fit the narrowed rear axle connected to a modified Tundra cable combined with parts from a 40 series cable. I didn’t take progress pictures but this is the 90% done pictures. I will finalize the cable mounts under cab after the cab comes back off.
It took three cables to make it work. I used the 80 series cable altered to fit the narrowed rear axle connected to a modified Tundra cable combined with parts from a 40 series cable. I didn’t take progress pictures but this is the 90% done pictures. I will finalize the cable mounts under cab after the cab comes back off.
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- #595
Checked off another box tonight. I repurposed some 80 series brake lines to close the brake system up. This is my recycled hand bent lines routed up the rib to the master cylinder.
I am running 80 disk brakes on all wheels with a master cylinder from a 95 80 series and don’t plan to run a proportioning valve. I am hoping it works ok. I have a 91 80 series converted to rear disks and it seems to be working just fine set up the same way.
After posting I was looking at the picture and wondered if the higher lines going into the master cylinder are going to make it more difficult to bleed the system? Maybe I need to adjust them?
I am running 80 disk brakes on all wheels with a master cylinder from a 95 80 series and don’t plan to run a proportioning valve. I am hoping it works ok. I have a 91 80 series converted to rear disks and it seems to be working just fine set up the same way.
After posting I was looking at the picture and wondered if the higher lines going into the master cylinder are going to make it more difficult to bleed the system? Maybe I need to adjust them?
Love the 80 series brake lines. They are stout compared to the NiCop lines. Good call. Some 40 series masters have top discharge ports on the MC and connections lines are higher than MC and they bleed fine. I would bleed first to see if they work.
Not sure if you knew this, but on an 80 the port in the front is to the rear brakes, the port closest to firewall is front circuit.....
forum.ih8mud.com
Front vs Rear ports on master cylinder?
I deleted ABS and LSPV on my truck several years ago. I'm working on a brake system overhaul and I came across something that's making me doubt my brake line routing. Which port on the MC goes where after ABS delete? I had always assumed the rear/side port near the firewall went to the front...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #598
Thanks @ceylonfj40nut I try to use as much oem parts as I can. They seem to last…
@2fpower Thanks you saved me from a lot of head scratching. I did not realize there was a difference between the non-abs and abs master cylinders. The master cylinder I used to mock it up is from a non-abs 1fz 80 series, so if I use it then I have the lines run correctly. I may just do that rather than swap it out for the newer later abs master cylinder I have.
@2fpower Thanks you saved me from a lot of head scratching. I did not realize there was a difference between the non-abs and abs master cylinders. The master cylinder I used to mock it up is from a non-abs 1fz 80 series, so if I use it then I have the lines run correctly. I may just do that rather than swap it out for the newer later abs master cylinder I have.
- Thread starter
- #599
Exciting night tonight. The shift console cover finally arrived. I tried to design it to look similar to the gauge cluster cover. It turned out great so far. I just need to finish fitting everything in place to make sure it all lines up as intended.
The preview!
The preview!
That is beautiful!!!