The Cook Shed
- Thread starter WarDamnEagle
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- #82
Greg are those OSHA approved brown fuzzy slippers?
I was wondering if anyone was going to notice those. Hey, these days I will take help any way I can get it!
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- #83
Took too long to get everything set this morning. I had to cut patterns from 2x12s which are pretty heavy when you are a) working by yourself and b) high in the air. Woke the son up around 9 and BIL joined around 11. Was hoping to get 6 of 14 up today but only managed 5. So have to finish the remaining 9 tomorrow or keep the crane another day. Pretty sure it's doable though. Took a lot of prep time this morning and there was a bit of a learning curve. We should be more efficient tomorrow.
For those of you following along, somewhere back quite a few posts I had said the 4x12 rafters would be on nominal 3' centers (9 per side or 18 total) and that's what I bought. Actually, I originally bought rough sawn 2x8 rafters and was going to put them on 24" centers before I changed to the 4x12s. At the same time I decided to use the 2x8x12s to deck the roof and bought enough 2x8x16s to finish the balance of the roof. Had my weekly epiphany a few weeks ago and decided the rafters needed to be spread out further. FWIW, rough cut 2x8s used as roof decking are good for 8' spans, even considering a snow load which we rarely get, so it's just a matter of aesthetics. I think it was the right decision even though I will have 4 4x12x16s left over.....maybe a firewood lean-to?
For those of you following along, somewhere back quite a few posts I had said the 4x12 rafters would be on nominal 3' centers (9 per side or 18 total) and that's what I bought. Actually, I originally bought rough sawn 2x8 rafters and was going to put them on 24" centers before I changed to the 4x12s. At the same time I decided to use the 2x8x12s to deck the roof and bought enough 2x8x16s to finish the balance of the roof. Had my weekly epiphany a few weeks ago and decided the rafters needed to be spread out further. FWIW, rough cut 2x8s used as roof decking are good for 8' spans, even considering a snow load which we rarely get, so it's just a matter of aesthetics. I think it was the right decision even though I will have 4 4x12x16s left over.....maybe a firewood lean-to?
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- #84
Well we got the rafters done. Amazing how much larger it feels with the rafters up. Moving to 4x12s on 48" centers was definitely the right call. Overall balance with the 8x8 timber frame feels right. I put just enough 12" screws in to secure everything but need to finish the rest and then on to the roof decking. Thankfully I don't need a crane for rough sawn 2x8s.
Wow, that looks great…agree on the visual weight and spacing
It’s coming together nicely Greg!
I love every bit of this. This is looking great!
It has a very classic, old world, Bavarian feel to it.
Thinking maybe you should import a cloister of monastic brewers from the Ettal Abbey and set them to work.
Just spit ballen’ here: Maybe call it “The Benedictine Broil or The Schloss and Slosh”?
Beautiful work
….
Thinking maybe you should import a cloister of monastic brewers from the Ettal Abbey and set them to work.
Just spit ballen’ here: Maybe call it “The Benedictine Broil or The Schloss and Slosh”?
Beautiful work
….
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- #89
That's not a bad idea. I was making an imitation Alt beer when we were living in Saudi.....and one of my favorite Bavarian dishes is Schweinshaxe. So once the pit is done we just need some small pigs and some fermenters and we're all set!It has a very classic, old world, Bavarian feel to it.
Thinking maybe you should import a cloister of monastic brewers from the Ettal Abbey and set them to work.
Just spit ballen’ here: Maybe call it “The Benedictine Broil or The Schloss and Slosh”?
Beautiful work
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- #90
I did a little bit of research on how rafters were held in place in traditional timber and frame buildings and eventually concluded that whatever technique I used (wooden pegs, etc.) the connectors would typically not be visible. So, I decided to go with 12" long, Simpson Strong Drive timber screws. They make them in a couple of flavors but hot dipped galvanized are recommended for pressure treated timbers and/or marine environments (not that I'm anywhere near the coast). The only downside to these connectors is the cost, something around $5 each.
As we set each pair of rafters we put one 12" screw crosswise though the top ends of the 4x12s. Given the length of the screws they were not installed exactly horizontal, I would say more like 20 or 30 degrees downward from true horizontal. I then went back over the last few days and installed one screw at each end of the rafters all the way though the topside and into the 8x8 beams that they are resting on. These screws are installed perpendicular to the rafters so they hit the 8x8s at an angle which pulls the rafters in and down. My original plan was to install two at each end but after driving in a few of these screws it was pretty clear that one on each end was enough to keep them in place under almost any wind condition short of a tornado. As a nod to wind uplift though, I did go ahead and put two, top and bottom, on the 4 end rafters.
The screws have a large (just under 1" diameter) built in washer with a 3/8" head. I used a 1" forstner bit to countersink the screw heads and drove them in, or attempted to drive them in with an impact driver. I managed to get a few in all the way but for most I had to use a normal ratchet and hand tighten them in anywhere from 2 to 8 of the 12 inches. A bit of a pain and time consuming but not overly difficult. It's done nothing but rain here since Sunday evening when we finished placing the rafters but I finally managed, between showers, to get the last screws installed yesterday evening. As luck would have it, my 15yo Makita cordless impact driver died as I was installing the last one. That's the second power tool casualty on this project. The first one was a 1/2" corded Milwaukee heavy duty rotary hammer drill that I was using with a 2" forstner bit to hog out the mortises. That was a spectacular failure by the way; all sorts of sparks and smoke.
Next up 2x8 roof decking boards followed by roofing.
As we set each pair of rafters we put one 12" screw crosswise though the top ends of the 4x12s. Given the length of the screws they were not installed exactly horizontal, I would say more like 20 or 30 degrees downward from true horizontal. I then went back over the last few days and installed one screw at each end of the rafters all the way though the topside and into the 8x8 beams that they are resting on. These screws are installed perpendicular to the rafters so they hit the 8x8s at an angle which pulls the rafters in and down. My original plan was to install two at each end but after driving in a few of these screws it was pretty clear that one on each end was enough to keep them in place under almost any wind condition short of a tornado. As a nod to wind uplift though, I did go ahead and put two, top and bottom, on the 4 end rafters.
The screws have a large (just under 1" diameter) built in washer with a 3/8" head. I used a 1" forstner bit to countersink the screw heads and drove them in, or attempted to drive them in with an impact driver. I managed to get a few in all the way but for most I had to use a normal ratchet and hand tighten them in anywhere from 2 to 8 of the 12 inches. A bit of a pain and time consuming but not overly difficult. It's done nothing but rain here since Sunday evening when we finished placing the rafters but I finally managed, between showers, to get the last screws installed yesterday evening. As luck would have it, my 15yo Makita cordless impact driver died as I was installing the last one. That's the second power tool casualty on this project. The first one was a 1/2" corded Milwaukee heavy duty rotary hammer drill that I was using with a 2" forstner bit to hog out the mortises. That was a spectacular failure by the way; all sorts of sparks and smoke.
Next up 2x8 roof decking boards followed by roofing.
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- #91
This is the first day it hasn't rained since the rafters were set. The weather forecast looks decent for the next few days so we started laying the 2x8s this morning. The eave board is a full 24' and I wanted to get it exactly 25" horizontal from the outside of the top horizontal beam which is a 1" overhang from the rafters. After the eave board was set we started laying 16s and 8s but only managed to get a total of 5 rows in today. Of course I did have to dog off for a good 2 hours today for other, pressing domestic duties but there's nothing on the agenda except for this decking tomorrow. There's 17 rows per side so this is going to take longer than I anticipated - like everything. One more row of 16s and 8s and we will start mixing in two 12s on every other row. Those 12s were originally bought as the rafters which seems pretty silly in hindsight.
I am using long pipe clamps as I go to pinch each row tight. Each board is getting three 4" Simpson Strong-tie timber screws at each rafter. You really have to be prudent when you chose fasteners in pressure treated wood - something I never thought much about in the past to be honest. Hot dipped galvanized and/or special coatings (like these fasteners) are the bare minimum; stainless steel is better. Electroplated galvanized is universally not recommended, FWIW. These screws are one place I decided not to pony up for the best given that I need around 900 of them and these are 4" timber screws. Pretty sure the double coated ones will outlive me at this point.
I really like the look of the 8:12 pitch roof but I really don't like walking on one. Maybe 6:12 would have been a more prudent choice? These rough sawn 2x8s have decent traction but just a little bit of sawdust, for example, and they are slippery. I tip my hat to roofers. My house is a combination of 8:12, 12:12, and 16:12 pitches and I have watched those guys come out to repair a shingle or two and move around like squirrels going up a tree. No idea how they manage to do that without killing themselves. I have a harness somewhere in an unpacked box - looks like that's the first step tomorrow morning now that we are getting past the outside beams (which make a nice catwalk btw).
And lastly, in the wonders never cease category; the Makita impact driver that died while driving the last 12" rafter screw miraculously came back to life. I was about to throw it and an equally old 3Ah battery pack that wouldn't charge in the garbage. Well I put them together, pulled the trigger, and the impact actually actuated. The battery was almost completely dead so I slapped on a new 5Ah battery and it ran like new. I already had their latest model on order, which I am using for this job, but it's always good to have a backup. My only thought is that they have a thermal cutoff and maybe it took a day or so to reset? Otherwise I'm clueless.
I am using long pipe clamps as I go to pinch each row tight. Each board is getting three 4" Simpson Strong-tie timber screws at each rafter. You really have to be prudent when you chose fasteners in pressure treated wood - something I never thought much about in the past to be honest. Hot dipped galvanized and/or special coatings (like these fasteners) are the bare minimum; stainless steel is better. Electroplated galvanized is universally not recommended, FWIW. These screws are one place I decided not to pony up for the best given that I need around 900 of them and these are 4" timber screws. Pretty sure the double coated ones will outlive me at this point.
I really like the look of the 8:12 pitch roof but I really don't like walking on one. Maybe 6:12 would have been a more prudent choice? These rough sawn 2x8s have decent traction but just a little bit of sawdust, for example, and they are slippery. I tip my hat to roofers. My house is a combination of 8:12, 12:12, and 16:12 pitches and I have watched those guys come out to repair a shingle or two and move around like squirrels going up a tree. No idea how they manage to do that without killing themselves. I have a harness somewhere in an unpacked box - looks like that's the first step tomorrow morning now that we are getting past the outside beams (which make a nice catwalk btw).
And lastly, in the wonders never cease category; the Makita impact driver that died while driving the last 12" rafter screw miraculously came back to life. I was about to throw it and an equally old 3Ah battery pack that wouldn't charge in the garbage. Well I put them together, pulled the trigger, and the impact actually actuated. The battery was almost completely dead so I slapped on a new 5Ah battery and it ran like new. I already had their latest model on order, which I am using for this job, but it's always good to have a backup. My only thought is that they have a thermal cutoff and maybe it took a day or so to reset? Otherwise I'm clueless.
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- #92
Having a well earned beverage and might even have to break into the Meloxicam stash. Son and I got an early start and I had planned on getting another few rows finished. BIL got off work early, rallied the troops and we actually finished that side today. It was a long day though. Tractor, as always, came in handy as did those 16' 2x4s that I had laying around. Just over 400 screws in that side. I'm taking tomorrow off. 
I bought two 15x25 tarps as the 2x8s, although treated, are not that wet. I want them to acclimate without getting soaked and potentially swelling. I have been pulling all these timbers tight with clamps and/or wedges so if they swell they could possible buckle a bit. The tarps might be there a while as there is a debate ongoing between the
and me on the roofing material. I hope to win this one but you never know.
I bought two 15x25 tarps as the 2x8s, although treated, are not that wet. I want them to acclimate without getting soaked and potentially swelling. I have been pulling all these timbers tight with clamps and/or wedges so if they swell they could possible buckle a bit. The tarps might be there a while as there is a debate ongoing between the
and me on the roofing material. I hope to win this one but you never know. 
Seeing all the intricate joinery while sitting under it is zen! Them geese are wanting to move in it seems. Supervising from below. The roof decking is spot on!
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- #94
Got the other side "finished" today. When I say finished, that is a slight exaggeration. All the 2x8s are up but the last two rows on each side aren't pulled tight and screwed down yet. Also I will have to rip a final piece for each side about 2" or so wide to finish each side. I left the last two rows on each side in case I saw any major adjustments that were needed before cutting the final pieces. None are needed so I will get those wedged in and screwed down before cutting the final pieces for each side.
It's worth mentioning that if you are ever decking with rough cut lumber, you need to keep up with measuring at least on each side and in the middle as you go. Otherwise you will get to the top (or end as the case may be) and you will be out by inch(s). These rough sawn 2x8s are +/- 1/4" so you need to be aware of your overall dimension at each end and the middle and make adjustments by matching and turning the lumber to your needs. And by +/- 1/4 inch, that means, in the extreme, a 16' board could be 8 1/4" on one end and 7 3/4 on the other. Or 7 3/4" in the middle and 8 1/4" on each end. Thankfully most do not vary to that extreme but they do vary. Also since these all have one joint in each row, you need to try to match the width at the joints or you won't be able to pull everything tight. My normal goal is to keep everything within a 1/4" so that nothing looks out of whack to the casual observer. On top of that, most of the boards have an obvious "good" side so the good side always goes down (I appreciate how obvious that sounds).
It's worth mentioning that if you are ever decking with rough cut lumber, you need to keep up with measuring at least on each side and in the middle as you go. Otherwise you will get to the top (or end as the case may be) and you will be out by inch(s). These rough sawn 2x8s are +/- 1/4" so you need to be aware of your overall dimension at each end and the middle and make adjustments by matching and turning the lumber to your needs. And by +/- 1/4 inch, that means, in the extreme, a 16' board could be 8 1/4" on one end and 7 3/4 on the other. Or 7 3/4" in the middle and 8 1/4" on each end. Thankfully most do not vary to that extreme but they do vary. Also since these all have one joint in each row, you need to try to match the width at the joints or you won't be able to pull everything tight. My normal goal is to keep everything within a 1/4" so that nothing looks out of whack to the casual observer. On top of that, most of the boards have an obvious "good" side so the good side always goes down (I appreciate how obvious that sounds).
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- #95
Last two rows on each side screwed down, last narrow row on each side at the peak cut and laid, both rake ends cut off straight; I declare the Cook Shed structurally complete. Just in time too as I was down to my last 4 screws (I bought 900). Blew everything off and tarped it for now. So I also declare the Cook Shed "dried in".
Fantastic work, sir. As just a measly University of Georgia College of Ag graduate, I'd say you could build a house on top of that "shed". Surely the most structurally overkill glorified gazebo around. Your attention to detail is awesome. I've found an eastern red cedar mill up near Lebanon, TN that has lots of rough sawn lumber that I'd love to use for a project like this or even a whole pole barn. Thanks for the inspiration.
I'm just up the road from you near Newnan GA. We'll have to link up sometime.
I'm just up the road from you near Newnan GA. We'll have to link up sometime.
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- #97
Thanks for the compliment. There was definitely a bit of scope creep on this project vs the initial idea. That happens a lot with my projects, or at least the ones I really take an interest in. That lumber mill sounds interesting. I have some very large red cedar slabs that might eventually become a bench or two, or maybe a table top. Haven’t decided yet. Beautiful wood though.
Let me know when you want to borrow my chisels. I will even throw in a free lesson.
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- #98
Spent the last few days on and off laying water, power, and a 1" electrical conduit for a possible future fiber connection from the cook shed to the house. There is absolutely nothing sexy, clever, or even particularly skillful about digging a 125' ditch up hill, through and/or under roots, and across your backyard. The heat and humidity has been absolutely killer so most days I didn't work past noon. Made the final push yesterday and about killed myself laying the last 50' or so across the backyard as we are supposed to be getting a few days of rain.........well let the rain commence.
Blue tooth smoker?
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- #100
I'm afraid we are old school when it comes to smokers. It's more for the times when I want to watch a football game while smoking. The short story is it was a $130 investment in conduit "just in case". On the chance that someone has a perfect solution, here are all the details.
I have 4 Ubiquiti Unifi Access Points scattered throughout the house and I get excellent WiFi signal everywhere in the house and yard. Sometimes I get 3 bars at the cook shed and sometimes I only get 1 - not sure why the variation and I haven't really tried to optimize one of the access points for the cook shed so I could probably improve the situation somewhat without installing anything additional. The ideal solution is to run fiber to the cook shed with fiber to CAT converters on each end. Not sure if I'm going to go that far but maybe.
The other "problem" I would like to solve is that I have no WiFi in my shop and it might be nice at times to watch a game in there as well. Again, the ideal approach would be to extend the fiber from the cook shed to the shop.....but that's another long ditch as well as a penetration under a rather wide, concrete driveway. I am also looking into point to point solutions but there are lots of trees in between the house, the cook shed, and the shop. I do generally have decent cell service in my shop, and even 5G at times, but that's only because I have a cell booster installed with an external antenna. Otherwise the shop is a black hole given the metal siding and roof.