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- #1,661
I’ve often thought about some bias ply 34”x9.5 swampers on a spare set of wheels... just pop them off after wheeling and I don’t have to worry about flat spotting.
Build The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota
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I’ve often thought about some bias ply 34”x9.5 swampers on a spare set of wheels... just pop them off after wheeling and I don’t have to worry about flat spotting.
There’s always an empty seat for you. The rubbing locations depends on backspacing and tire width.
You can have a ton of fun with 2.5” springs, extended shackles and 33’s AND a skid plate. I’d love to have a 2nd truck to run like that.
You can have a ton of fun with 2.5” springs, extended shackles and 33’s AND a skid plate. I’d love to have a 2nd truck to run like that.
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- #1,665
That’s the goal! Backspacing will always be 3.5-4” and tire width will always be skinny as long as that continues to be an option.
As for skid plates - remind me again how yours bolts up? I like how they bolted up from the side of the frame rails but I can’t remember if they were through-bolted from the outside of the rail or somehow bolted from the inside. I don’t have a tubing bender but I could probably use a similar mount in something I can fab up.
3.25 BS is ideal...
My skid uses angle iron inside the frame rails with nuts welded to the inside and bolted thru the frame. I used DOM tube as cross stringers, but you could use square tube and cut and weld just as easily. Also, IPOR makes a good skid, but you’d have to ask about using it with an SBC.
There are some pics of my skid plate construction in my ROTW thread.
My skid uses angle iron inside the frame rails with nuts welded to the inside and bolted thru the frame. I used DOM tube as cross stringers, but you could use square tube and cut and weld just as easily. Also, IPOR makes a good skid, but you’d have to ask about using it with an SBC.
There are some pics of my skid plate construction in my ROTW thread.
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- #1,667
My mistake - I think I meant 3.25 (stock). I believe my original (non-stock) wheels were 3.75ish and barely cleared the steering.
I’ve thought about the square tube approach - probably uglier, but it’s a skid plate... what’s the plated section? 3/16? 1” DOM tube or something beefier? Obviously the bigger I go the more clearance I lose...
1/8th plate with 1.25 DOM across and 1" lengthewise, I used .120 wall, but should have gone.250
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- #1,670
Looking at Poser's Stuff (sooo pretty), seems like he uses 3/8 plate which seems like way overkill. 1/8 or 3/16 is probably good for the plate - seems like it's holding up for you. I think I'd shoot for minimum loss of clearance (smallest square tube possible) since my truck is so low, relatively speaking. Main beams would need to be either 1.250 square tube in 3/16 thickness, or 1.5" in .250." I'd probably go with 1" trusses in .120 (max thickness at that size) to connect the main beams, and 3/16 plate.
Im running 35x12.5x15 BFG M/T with 4.5(?) backspacing and no spacers. I like them, they bulge out nicely when aired down and hum down the highway just fine.
Without bump stops in the rear, I make contact with the rear inside fender. They were also making contact with back of the fender opening, but I opened that up an 1.5" backward and that is mostly solved. My Aqualu tub doesn't seem to deflect like the stock tub, just chews up the tires.
In the front with stock bumpstops and I'm mostly happy with them. On the Passenger side, it only makes contact with the support. I have two points of contact on the drivers fender-Cut out from the stock steering box and a light contact with the fender support. When I get to the body work, Ill be removing that pedestal and closing up the opening as I'm using an fj80 box.
Like others have said a jack(or even a loader) just don't move the suspension the way an obstacle would. for that you need something that you actually drive into/up over. (Luckily I have all these rocks to test it out on.)
I did that SR a long time ago, when they were more in style. I doubt I would have done it today with all the online opinions about them. That being said, I do like it, as I didn't have to get overly stiff springs in order to get 4" of lift. I actually think I have a pretty good ride between the 2.5" lift and the 35" tires. Not as good as a sedan, but pretty good for a tractor.
Riding along is good, but driving the chunk you built is better.If I want to wheel black trails I’ll sit in @Stumpalama ’s truck and let him chauffeur me.
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Yes, mine is based on Poser's design.
It's all about placement as far the cross bars go. I am happy with the 1/8" plate. It hasn't dented or deflected at all.
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- #1,673
So what’s the secret to the crossbar placement. I was thinking I’d make the whole thing from 3/16 (square tube, plate) with some .120 cross braces. 1.5x.250 square seems like it’d be overkill but that’s about as small as I can get quarter inch stuff.
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- #1,675
Pretty much how I envisioned it. Now I guess I need to find something to (really) flex the suspension and figure out just how far I need to move them.
You can estimate... that’s what I did. It isn’t an exact science and theirs lots of room for adjustment. I’ll get some pics of mine this week
I solved some of this issue by using a 62 series rear axle, ~3" wider and stock 60 series 6" wide wheels with 33 10.50's. It flexed up and did not rub. I am not sure if you saw my little blue 40 at Fall Crawl or not. I put 1 1/2 wheel spacers on the front to match the track width. With the skinny wheels It is like running a 7 1/2 wide wheel so not much stress on the front knuckle/spindles components.
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I use a fork lift or a vehicle lift at work to flex out my 40 to measure for bump stops and other clearance issues. Works great.
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- #1,679
Yeah just it not super clear on how one estimates. Flexing opposite back and the front wheels at the same time to the point that the opposite tire lifts slightly (so the truck is basically on one wheel) I still have like 2” to the bump stop and 3-4 inches to the exhaust - and yet clearly I’m hitting all of those thing so
I don’t think I saw your truck at Fall Crawl - I was surprised how many 40’s I saw in pictures - not sure where they were all hiding!
I’m sure this would work but again, I’m trying to keep this stockish looking so I’m not sure I necessarily want to go with the wider track (though I agree there are advantages). Plus - it sounds like a lot of work!
Is there somewhere I could see some pictures?
I have access to neither of those things... I’d be better off going to find a ditch somewhere!
When I was sorting out the front SOA and high steer setup on mine. I used a ratchet strap and a bottle jack to maximize movement of the leaf's. This was while the front sheetmetal was off though. Might be hard to strap a spring with a fender in the way.