Build The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota
- Thread starter RWBeringer4x4
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- #1,642
Honestly I’ve never seen how I’d get dual exhaust around the transfer case since the case is right up against the passenger frame rail. SOA isn’t gonna happen. I want to but my goal is to keep this truck “stockish” (looking) and good on and off-road. I know SOA’s are fine on-road when done properly I’ve just never wanted to turn it into THAT much of a wheeler.
I imagine a SUA would potentially help some as long as I bring the bump stops down a little. The goal was always a 2.5inch lift at some point.
What’s weird is even if I “flex” front passenger and driver’s rear in the garage to “stuff” that front tire - I don’t hit the stop or the exhaust... maybe I’m missing inertia? Ie- coming off a rock and stuffing the front tire with some force behind it?
I imagine a SUA would potentially help some as long as I bring the bump stops down a little. The goal was always a 2.5inch lift at some point.
What’s weird is even if I “flex” front passenger and driver’s rear in the garage to “stuff” that front tire - I don’t hit the stop or the exhaust... maybe I’m missing inertia? Ie- coming off a rock and stuffing the front tire with some force behind it?
My duals came over the frame and exiting behind the door. Mufflers took lot of abuse.
Off road suspension dynamics are very different than the static lift a wheel or 2 test. Likely an off camber downhill drop made the dent.
Off road suspension dynamics are very different than the static lift a wheel or 2 test. Likely an off camber downhill drop made the dent.
Ive had the same problem, in multiple set ups of various engines , from bbc and sbc with a y pipe type exhaust and a 4" lift. On the bbc I ran duals, but i had to run the pass side exhaust under the engine like a y pipe then to the rear. My street 40 with sbc has a shop made y pipe going to single outlet, it hangs lower than the Wagner y pipe and has been hit. It had no lift and lightly wheeled. My trail 40 w/the Wagner y pipe and 4" lift has been lightly hit too. I dropped the pass bump stop just enuff to protect it. The trail puts your suspension in situations you can't duplicate in the shop.
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- Thread starter
- #1,645
Yeah, I'd consider dropping the bump stop a bit but I'm not sure how to determine how far to drop it. Like I said under full garage flex, there's no conflict - so I'm clearly only hitting it when I drop the truck's weight on it.
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- #1,647
lift it !!
that looked like a sweet ride.... miss the wheeling trips
It was a blast - I’m very torn about wheeling it because it’s really in great condition and I’m denting the crap out of it...But I’m sure having a good time doing it.
I just have to keep reminding myself:
1. This is a 350 converted, non-stock rig that holds basically no value to anyone but me.
2. This is what the 40 was designed to do - so I should use it accordingly. It’s an awfully inefficient way to get groceries...
Still - bashing up all my hard work makes me cringe a little. A 2.5 inch lift was always in the plans for this truck, and the lower geared H41 is going in (hopefully this winter) which will give me more control offroad and hopefully slow down the wheels over some of these obstacles I'm currently hitting hard and fast. Both should help - but I'll probably need to drop the bump stops a bit to protect the exhaust. Again, the question becomes, just how far do I need to go? the dent is about 1/2" deep so I'm guessing at least that far!
Maybe, I've put suspension in such a bind that I'd have to power thru it, too. I could feel it in the vehicle. So much pressure you couldn't turn the wheel. I've stuffed the rt frt with most of the wt of the vehicle on it. Things you can't duplicate. I'll try to take a pic of my bumpstop drop tonight
2.5" lift with shackles (2" longer than stock shackle) will get you 2.25" at the center of axle lift.... 1" longer shackle will net 1 3/4
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- #1,650
I have slightly longer shackles than stock (only about 3/4" over) that I'd probably re-use on a lift unless there's a compelling reason not to. I'm on stock springs currently. A 2.5 inch lift would gain me a little for sure - but I'd also probably ditch the load-leveler shocks with a 2.5inch lift. So I'd likely flex more too. I'd probably actually have MORE of a problem with a lift, by that logic. I'd probably still want to bring the bump stops down.
I also plan to flip the U-Bolts, which will limit up-travel slightly (about 1/2" I believe).
There are plenty of 2.5-3" lifted FJ40's on 33's that wheel lots of challenging trails. I had a (too stiff) 4" lift and 35" tires on my 40 and ran it sprung under for years and on trails like the Rubicon.
I did a full frame off restoration in 2000-ish. My truck has only recently taken some big hits, but, they are all fixable.
I should have walked you around to Matt Walls' and Charlton Johnson's FJ40's. Both are sprung under and running 35" or 36" tires and they wheel all levels of trails... Charlton even drives his to Rausch from the Charlottesville area.
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- #1,652
Very interested to hear how one gets 35's under a sprung-under FJ40, 4" lift? I've always debated whether that much spring arch would make for a brutal(er) ride. The 2.5" lift on 33's always seemed like a good happy medium. The good news is, my rear fenders are already cut, so won't lose any sleep there.
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I had (still have but they have sagged) a 4” lift in rear with longer shackles with SR in front and 2.5” lift springs and shackle Skyjackers ... they were a decent ride at the time they were new
200k they wore in nicely
but it’s now a 3-3.5” lift now ... before it was 4.75 approx
Had 34” TSL SS and could have easily gone 35-36
Sua
Even with that lift ... I bashed her well (moderate to HC trails) could be bad spotters or maybe I suck at wheeling
Sua 2.5 lift ... you’ll like it
***peer pressure***
Come get high with us lol
Everybody lifts their rigs... don’t be a Rover guy
200k they wore in nicely
but it’s now a 3-3.5” lift now ... before it was 4.75 approxHad 34” TSL SS and could have easily gone 35-36
Sua
Even with that lift ... I bashed her well (moderate to HC trails) could be bad spotters or maybe I suck at wheeling
Sua 2.5 lift ... you’ll like it
***peer pressure***
Come get high with us lol
Everybody lifts their rigs... don’t be a Rover guy
Here is my 4" lift ( SUA - Alcan springs) 35" tires. And great flex..
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- #1,656
I hate to be "that guy" asking the tire question for the 50 millionth time, but this is my thread soo...Is it safe to say 35's won't fit (without rubbing) on a 2.5" lift, even with the fenders cut? That's a lot of tire to stuff.
With my 35's and a 4" lift, I rubbed. I guess that would depend on how far back you cut the fenders. I'm sure there are some suspension experts that will give you more info.
I have the same dent in the same walker pipe. It hasn’t effected the engine performance yet. Mine is a fresh-ish rebuild, but not fire breathing monster. It has not stopped me from driving over 8000’ passes or wheeling. Let it be until you decide to move the engine or lift. If you were a hardcore wheeler, it’d probably be wise to fix it.
I have 35’s and 4” of SUA lift- SR/2.5 OME and Extended shackles/2.5 OME. I like it and I’m not wanting to go to SOA. For the occasional wheeler I can’t see the effort as being worth it. Not with time being a premium in my life, as I’m sure it is for you. Yes my tires rub a bit and I moved my wheel wells back a couple inches to help that out. Extended bumpstops will help as well. Mine wheels well and drives down the highway with one hand on the wheel. Also, it fits in the garage with a rack on top.
There are some metric mud terrains that could get you a tall skinny tire that is close to a true 34" tire
- Thread starter
- #1,660
I guess the better question is - where do the bigger tires usually rub? The back of the wheel well? Or inside in the inner fender well. With 8” wide 31.5 inch tires it’s not an issue I’ve encountered...since I need to replace my flares and my rear quarter panel is banged up anyway, I could feasibly go to a wider opening. I just worry if I cut it too wide it’ll look ridiculous on 31’s.
@archie73 - the exhaust is flowing fine as is and I have absolutely no intention of fixing it until I address the problem that caused it in the first place. The problem is I can’t figure out how to flex it out to the point I can position my bump stops appropriately to avoid it in the future. Anything I do in the garage doesn’t get the driveshaft anywhere close to the exhaust.
I’m not sure I’m going to even reverse the shackles. If I could put a 33 or 34 under it with a 2.5” lift since the fenders are already cut, that seems like a happy medium.
If I want to wheel black trails I’ll sit in @Stumpalama ’s truck and let him chauffeur me
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@pb4ugo - pictures of your stops would help!
@archie73 - the exhaust is flowing fine as is and I have absolutely no intention of fixing it until I address the problem that caused it in the first place. The problem is I can’t figure out how to flex it out to the point I can position my bump stops appropriately to avoid it in the future. Anything I do in the garage doesn’t get the driveshaft anywhere close to the exhaust.
I’m not sure I’m going to even reverse the shackles. If I could put a 33 or 34 under it with a 2.5” lift since the fenders are already cut, that seems like a happy medium.
If I want to wheel black trails I’ll sit in @Stumpalama ’s truck and let him chauffeur me
. @pb4ugo - pictures of your stops would help!