Think you could figure out the length of that cable?
"The Big Three" Electrical Upgrade
- Thread starter TheForger
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Sure thing. I already replaced the cover and I am not at the same location as the truck at this moment. I will get you the length and post it tomorrow if that'd work for you?
Sounds like a plan! Thanks for your help.
Based on the path it looks to be the same or similar length as mine to the engine hook. Looks to use the same forked connector as well, just different mounting location.
My '99 LX was mounted to the engine hook (red arrow). When I did the Big-3 I opted to mount directly to the engine (green arrow). I also changed holes on the fender b/c of other accessories using the original mounting point. All is working great this way.
When I was working at the Volvo truck plant, we'd hose down every ground and disconnect terminal with Glyptal. I didn't feel like spending 55$ on a can of Glyptal, so I bought "Red Insulating Varnish, 20 oz." off Amazon.
I'm not spraying my battery terminals with it, but I did clean up every chassis ground termination and then spray.
I am also very interested in the Big 3 Plus kit. Pricing still pending?
I'm not spraying my battery terminals with it, but I did clean up every chassis ground termination and then spray.
I am also very interested in the Big 3 Plus kit. Pricing still pending?
Kit pricing still in the works. These cables aren't nearly as straight forward as the FJ40/60/62/80 series cables.
I measured the fender liner to engine ground cable in place in my 2006 LX470 engine bay by running another wire from fender end to engine end along its path holding it tightly against the cable the entire way. From middle of terminal eye to middle of terminal (forked) eye I came up with a length of 25-5/8".
Hope this helps.
The cable that is included in my kit is 24" plus a little for the added ring terminals. I am guessing it is close to 24.5". Thanks for getting this for us.
I think replacing the alternator cable prevenativaly is a really good idea. Mine just burned up at the factory crimp real bad leaving the insulation crumbling and burned back a few inches. The same thing happend to a buddy recently, I think it's due to age and flex OR thermal run away by the rebuilt alternators.
I'll be replacing the alt. and making up a new charge cable from #4 welding cable with properly crimped lugs. I'm also going to start carying a pre-made quick fix for this as I'm sure I'll see it again on sombodys junk sooner or later.
I'll be replacing the alt. and making up a new charge cable from #4 welding cable with properly crimped lugs. I'm also going to start carying a pre-made quick fix for this as I'm sure I'll see it again on sombodys junk sooner or later.
I've released the big 3 kit. Still working on the other options.
forum.ih8mud.com
UZJ100 Battery, Alternator and Ground Cable Kits - "Big Three Cable Kit"
All cables are constructed from either 1/0 or 4 AWG tinned wire (marine wire). Wire is very flexible and jacket is resistant to moisture, oil, chemicals, and excellent abrasion resistance. Joints are sealed using mil spec heavy duty adhesive lined heat shrink to prevent corrosion. Big Three -...
forum.ih8mud.com
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I've release the big 3 kit. Still working on the other options.
UZJ100 Battery, Alternator and Ground Cable Kits - "Big Three Cable Kit"
All cables are constructed from either 1/0 or 4 AWG tinned wire (marine wire). Wire is very flexible and jacket is resistant to moisture, oil, chemicals, and excellent abrasion resistance. Joints are sealed using mil spec heavy duty adhesive lined heat shrink to prevent corrosion. Big Three -...
Send me a PM for purchase.
WOW.
Can I ask:
Was that a Toyota factory alternator rebuilt or aftermarket?
Did you have aftermarket "stuff" draws on power?
"Stuff" like radios, frig, air compressor, lights, second battery. Things drawing heavier than stock 100 series amp needs. Things that may point to the increased AMP pulled for accessories, overheating factory stock wiring.
@2001LC
This was a rebuild; AutoDone Duralast, Mexico Rbld. (it was stamped ND so likely a quality core), 100A, ~2yrs and lots of muck endured.
I have all the stuff; dual AGM's, frig, lights, compressor, etc... fridge batt was low on this day and may have loaded things down pretty good.
The other end of the cable is fine though and of the same gauge/construction so I don't think it's a build/capacity problem. With a 100A alt and a safety factor engineered in the stock stuff should be plenty capable (until you upsize the alternator of course) despite the accessories.
I suspect the root cause is either the chepo V/R overheats OR the old, heat cycled, flexed and tortured cable starts to crack/fail between the crimps in the alt side lug where the stress/exposure looks highest.
My lifetime warranty yielded me another alt looking thing but without the ND stamp and from China this time. I have a Toyota to rebuild myself, just moved way up the list!
To stay on topic, looks like 1/4" hole with a #4lug should be just the thing:
![20200707_131251[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20200707_131251-1-webp.2364231/ "20200707_131251[1].jpg")
![20200707_125443[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20200707_125443-1-webp.2364232/ "20200707_125443[1].jpg")
![20200707_125504[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20200707_125504-1-webp.2364233/ "20200707_125504[1].jpg")
This was a rebuild; AutoDone Duralast, Mexico Rbld. (it was stamped ND so likely a quality core), 100A, ~2yrs and lots of muck endured.
I have all the stuff; dual AGM's, frig, lights, compressor, etc... fridge batt was low on this day and may have loaded things down pretty good.
The other end of the cable is fine though and of the same gauge/construction so I don't think it's a build/capacity problem. With a 100A alt and a safety factor engineered in the stock stuff should be plenty capable (until you upsize the alternator of course) despite the accessories.
I suspect the root cause is either the chepo V/R overheats OR the old, heat cycled, flexed and tortured cable starts to crack/fail between the crimps in the alt side lug where the stress/exposure looks highest.
My lifetime warranty yielded me another alt looking thing but without the ND stamp and from China this time. I have a Toyota to rebuild myself, just moved way up the list!
To stay on topic, looks like 1/4" hole with a #4lug should be just the thing:
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OEM Alternator Charging Cable Length from my 1999 Land Cruiser is 85 1/4" eye to eye.
The stock charging cable looks like a #6 by weight.
(I measured a 5.5" piece at 17 grams so ~82 lb/1000ft, found a table listing #6 @ 79.5)
1/4" hole sized lugs should fit well on the M6 terminals on both ends.
I'm going to go with #4 welding cable and see if I can restore the OEM harness with it end to end...
(I measured the #4 at ~130 lb/1000ft as it should.)
Some of the clips and hardware may be a challenge:
![20200707_202905[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20200707_202905-1-webp.2364652/ "20200707_202905[1].webp")
The stock charging cable looks like a #6 by weight.
(I measured a 5.5" piece at 17 grams so ~82 lb/1000ft, found a table listing #6 @ 79.5)
1/4" hole sized lugs should fit well on the M6 terminals on both ends.
I'm going to go with #4 welding cable and see if I can restore the OEM harness with it end to end...
(I measured the #4 at ~130 lb/1000ft as it should.)
Some of the clips and hardware may be a challenge:
Thanks for the response. You understood perfectly what I was fishing for.
I've got a 02LX here now, I'm inspecting. Owner (jacob) said he had alternator issue after installing a power hungry stereo AMP. His mechanic suggest a higher output alternator after replacing a second time. So they installed the 400 AMP, problem went away afterwards.
I've some concern with this alternators 400 AMP output. I've a battery light on (new battery no change), that may not be related. But I found it's ~2 or 3 year old battery is in bad condition. Center cell on one side was dry, and center on other very low. I've seen 10 year stock battery looking better. This is first battery I've seen in a 100 series that needing more than 1 or 2 oz of water add. Those were only low, but not below tops of cell.
So it concerns me with so many AMP needed to run a Stereo. My knowledge of electrical outside of factory stock, could fill a thimble. With factory stock I could fill maybe 2 thimbles...LOL
But I do know when I pull a high load from say a drill. That I can really get and extension cord hot. That the longer the cord and more AMP I pull to run equipment, the heavy gauge it must be, or something will give. That my wall outlet also get very hot as does it's cord & plugged at wall. I've never notice as hot a cord near drills motor end. But that maybe I just never noticed.
I'm all for the big 3, especial when we pull more than designed loads. My reasoning for considering wire upgrade in a stock rig, has to do with age of wires and oxidation increasing resistance.
I'm just thinking, that in a pure stock rig. Like my 00 w/over 350K miles. Wires melting will hopefully not be the reason I'll do or need to do the big 3.
Thanks again Andy!
@Fourrunner for another official Alt power wire length.
From when I played with stereo stuff back in the day, what I remember is that if you started getting above about a 500w amplifier, unless you had a fairly strong alternator and good quality battery you really should upgrade things, not just wiring. Hence why you will see most guys that are running big car systems with higher output alternators, dual batteries, etc. as they have one that is specifically dedicated to running the system and then secondary that would be utilized for stock components. With the efficiency of things now days, and depending on how "power hungry" Jacobs' stuff is, he may be in need of that.
Calling @suprarx7nut as our resident audiophile system expert for @2001LC to see if there is something that we all may be missing in this regards.
I've been running a 1000W RMS (500W sub and 500W front stage) audio system in my 99 for years. I have a group 31 AGM and factory 100A alternator. I have a 2AWG power wire.
I've never had a noticeable charging problem I could relate to the audio equipment. I've killed an alternator since installing the system, but I attributed that more to offroad water crossings (my wife drove a few last year with water over the hood). I've not noticed dimming headlights either, but I rarely drive at night these days.
A few things to consider:
1. Class D amps (almost all audio amps today) only pull power to feed the current audio signal. That means max RMS current will only be drawn at high volumes on a loud song. If it's a 1000W system, most its time, even at max volume, might only be consuming 250W because most songs are not at max volume the entire time.
2. The battery should handle momentary power draws with ease. The alternator doesn't need to output more than the amps require - it just needs to keep up with replenishing the battery during lower consumption moments.
3. I have always charged my group 31 with a CTEK wall charger every so often (every 3-6 months maybe). I don't rely on the alternator to maintain the battery by itself. That battery has been abused for nearly 6 years and it's still going strong.
I've never done the big three upgrade due to electrical problems, but I have replaced cables to address bad terminations. To test for the need for upgrading the wire, I would test voltage drop during load. You want very little drop (say less than 100mV, perhaps?), but poor wire could drop 1V or more. If you don't have voltage drop across the wire, there's no reason to do the big three upgrade, IMO. Sometimes testing it properly is as much work as just upgrading blindly.