"The Big Three" Electrical Upgrade

[James Bentley]

I'm really trying to help.

That's why I joined and pay to be here.
To learn and contribute where I can.
This is a great site and forum and "head-and-shoulders" above anything on Facebook.

I'm assuming that both ends of the OE ground "end" in a M6 bolt connection (eyelet on the wire).
The firewall side is evident (I'm assuming the other end is the same).

What I can't see from your pictures is the intake plenum termination on your rig for that OE ground cable.

Where does it terminate?

My '04 LX is all metal and was an easy upgrade.

I hope your frustrations are resolved and you can use the kit you bought to accomplish your goals.

I wish you the best...always happy to help

 

[GTV]

Ha

What I can't see from your pictures is the intake plenum termination on your rig for that OE ground cable.

Where does it terminate?

Great question. It goes directly into the wiring loom and disappears. I assume it comes back out on the passenger side and secures to the hook but I haven't run a continuity test to confirm. On VVTi engines there is nothing conductive within reach of the cable that @BnvS provides so I'm waiting on a response from him.

 

[2005BlackBeauty]

I’ve wanted to do the big 3, but have yet to find a kit / ‘install for dummies’ instruction. I am dummy.

 

[BnvS]

I’ve wanted to do the big 3, but have yet to find a kit / ‘install for dummies’ instruction. I am dummy.

Here are instructions from my Kit. It should be similar to most other installations. 4x4 Bazaar - LC/LX Big 3 Ground Wiring Installation Instructions - https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Od8mTxcE86LwUkhP5zCZEmPlReuYYEuy7oZFM0K0v8M/edit?usp=drive_link

 

[GTV]

as if by magic, this is where it ends. passenger side hook.

View attachment 2486049

Combing back through this thread and I find that my guess about the factory firewall to engine ground was correct.

The valve cover bolt would theoretically work as a ground if the cable is long enough but IMO that risks leaks and the ugly possibility of the valve cover bolt snapping off.

I see no better solution than factory, that is the hook on the passenger side.

 

[Mike NXP]

Combing back through this thread and I find that my guess about the factory firewall to engine ground was correct.

The valve cover bolt would theoretically work as a ground if the cable is long enough but IMO that risks leaks and the ugly possibility of the valve cover bolt snapping off.

I see no better solution than factory, that is the hook on the passenger side.

Seems like this kit for folks with plastic intake should just include a longer cable to reach what you need....Unless I am misunderstanding it seems like the short cable that came with your kit doesn't really have any good grounds within reach

 

[GTV]

Seems like this kit for folks with plastic intake should just include a longer cable to reach what you need....Unless I am misunderstanding it seems like the short cable that came with your kit doesn't really have any good grounds within reach

I would have to agree 100%.
If anyone else with VVti has successfully used a kit from @BnvS I would love to hear about it. Far as I can tell it only works on 98-05.

 

[2001LC]

Seems one could bolt ground to back of head. Which BK1 has bracket held by 10mm bolt as does BK2.

BK1 10mm bolts hold bracket for breathers, A/F sensor wire housing hanger and ground wires. Remove bolt and then get one longer, by thickness of new ground wire lug.

Pictures from The Unicorn's (overheated) factory installed 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVti engine

 

[GTV]

Seems one could bolt ground to back of head. Which BK1 has bracket held by 10mm bolt as does BK2.

BK1 10mm bolts hold bracket for breathers, A/F sensor wire housing hanger and ground wires. Remove bolt and then get one longer, by thickness of new ground wire lug.

Pictures from The Unicorn's (overheated) factory installed 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVti engine
View attachment 3874675

View attachment 3874674

That does look like a possibility if the cable is long enough, mine definitely wasn't. A bit tricky to access with the engine in though.

@BnvS has agreed to send me a longer cable that will secure to the factory hook on the passenger side. I believe that is the best way for 06-07.

 

[GTV]

@BnvS set me up with a longer firewall to engine ground cable. The bolt on the hook side could stand to be a little longer so I will be swapping that out. To you VVTi guys, make sure you get a longer cable for this ground!

 

[tesq]

A quick note for those running an extended ground cable from the passenger's side hook to the cowl panel: the thick cable routed to the cowl panel can act as an amplifier for valvetrain noise.

I had @BnvS send me a longer ground cable for my 2007 LX470 at 92k miles. The first time after starting the engine up after install, I noticed a new pronounced engine tick/periodic ticking that started at start-up and changed with RPM. It sounded to me like a worn/out of tolerance bucket/shim/camshaft combo, or like a minor exhaust leak. It was not noticeable from in or around the engine compartment: only when you were sitting in the driver's seat with the windows closed.

Being the neurotic person I am, I proceeded to check my spark plugs (as @2001LC has shown to be important). Nothing weird there. Did an oil change, looking for glitter. Nada. Then I went to a friend with a smoke machine and shop vac, certain I was going to find my issue with a failing/cracked exhaust manifold. Again, nothing. I started prepping to remove the valve covers to check clearances when I saw a comment on a tundra forum about this same issue with running thick gauge ground straps to the firewall/cowl panel.

So I went back to my car, re-routed the passenger side ground to the fender using one of the mounting bolts for the high beam resistor, started the car, and the noise is gone. A test drive confirmed the lack of noise: I was hearing normal valvetrain noise carried up the engine hook, through the thick gauge grounding cable, amplified by the cowl panel.

Looking back, this should have been obvious. Toyota engineers added a rubber bushing/damper to every bolt going through the cowl panel except the grounding strap. Don't undo their careful planning.

In summary, @BnvS makes a great product, but I would suggest running the cable to the front passenger fender or wheel well to avoid introducing valvetrain noise into the passenger compartment.

 

[GTV]

A quick note for those running an extended ground cable from the passenger's side hook to the cowl panel: the thick cable routed to the cowl panel can act as an amplifier for valvetrain noise.

I had @BnvS send me a longer ground cable for my 2007 LX470 at 92k miles. The first time after starting the engine up after install, I noticed a new pronounced engine tick/periodic ticking that started at start-up and changed with RPM. It sounded to me like a worn/out of tolerance bucket/shim/camshaft combo, or like a minor exhaust leak. It was not noticeable from in or around the engine compartment: only when you were sitting in the driver's seat with the windows closed.

Being the neurotic person I am, I proceeded to check my spark plugs (as @2001LC has shown to be important). Nothing weird there. Did an oil change, looking for glitter. Nada. Then I went to a friend with a smoke machine and shop vac, certain I was going to find my issue with a failing/cracked exhaust manifold. Again, nothing. I started prepping to remove the valve covers to check clearances when I saw a comment on a tundra forum about this same issue with running thick gauge ground straps to the firewall/cowl panel.

So I went back to my car, re-routed the passenger side ground to the fender using one of the mounting bolts for the high beam resistor, started the car, and the noise is gone. A test drive confirmed the lack of noise: I was hearing normal valvetrain noise carried up the engine hook, through the thick gauge grounding cable, amplified by the cowl panel.

Looking back, this should have been obvious. Toyota engineers added a rubber bushing/damper to every bolt going through the cowl panel except the grounding strap. Don't undo their careful planning.

In summary, @BnvS makes a great product, but I would suggest running the cable to the front passenger fender or wheel well to avoid introducing valvetrain noise into the passenger compartment.

Holy crap, I think I have this exact issue in my Tundra...

 

[Gnarwgn]

@tesq - can you post a pic indicating what you explain above? I had the same/similar issue at the connection point to the driver's side firewall. The sound was a buzz that followed the RPMs. Wasn't there prior to install, as soon as I disconnected that specific ground cable it was gone. Tested 3x, would love to understand how to reinstall cable without the buzz.

 

[ed94r]

A quick note for those running an extended ground cable from the passenger's side hook to the cowl panel: the thick cable routed to the cowl panel can act as an amplifier for valvetrain noise.

I thought I was the only one that noticed this same phenomenon. I spent all the $ for all the late model gaskets and did deadening in the doors, and the noise it into'd into the cabin was not doable for me. So, I have the Big 2...lol

Sounded like BMW M20 fuel injector+valvetrain noise.....Ticka Ticka Ticka

 

[tesq]

@tesq - can you post a pic indicating what you explain above? I had the same/similar issue at the connection point to the driver's side firewall. The sound was a buzz that followed the RPMs. Wasn't there prior to install, as soon as I disconnected that specific ground cable it was gone. Tested 3x, would love to understand how to reinstall cable without the buzz.

Here’s a photo. Definitely try not to attach anything to the cowl panel or firewall.

In the photo you can see the cable attaching to the lift hook, running over the ac lines and main loom, then attaching to the wheel well/arch using any of the bolts there.

 

[Scotty UZJ100]

Oh wow I hear it too, almost sounds like a bad bearing on a belt tensioner or something like that.

A quick note for those running an extended ground cable from the passenger's side hook to the cowl panel: the thick cable routed to the cowl panel can act as an amplifier for valvetrain noise.

I had @BnvS send me a longer ground cable for my 2007 LX470 at 92k miles. The first time after starting the engine up after install, I noticed a new pronounced engine tick/periodic ticking that started at start-up and changed with RPM. It sounded to me like a worn/out of tolerance bucket/shim/camshaft combo, or like a minor exhaust leak. It was not noticeable from in or around the engine compartment: only when you were sitting in the driver's seat with the windows closed.

Being the neurotic person I am, I proceeded to check my spark plugs (as @2001LC has shown to be important). Nothing weird there. Did an oil change, looking for glitter. Nada. Then I went to a friend with a smoke machine and shop vac, certain I was going to find my issue with a failing/cracked exhaust manifold. Again, nothing. I started prepping to remove the valve covers to check clearances when I saw a comment on a tundra forum about this same issue with running thick gauge ground straps to the firewall/cowl panel.

So I went back to my car, re-routed the passenger side ground to the fender using one of the mounting bolts for the high beam resistor, started the car, and the noise is gone. A test drive confirmed the lack of noise: I was hearing normal valvetrain noise carried up the engine hook, through the thick gauge grounding cable, amplified by the cowl panel.

Looking back, this should have been obvious. Toyota engineers added a rubber bushing/damper to every bolt going through the cowl panel except the grounding strap. Don't undo their careful planning.

In summary, @BnvS makes a great product, but I would suggest running the cable to the front passenger fender or wheel well to avoid introducing valvetrain noise into the passenger compartment.