Tappered Body Lift - (1"/1.5") front to 0" in back.... (1 Viewer)

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I was stumbling around on IG and came across a post about the 3rd Gen 4Runner guys using them to fix the body rake and give them a little fender clearance for larger tires. Two things the 100 series is plagued with too. A pretty cleaver idea IMOP. Curious if anyone has looked into it or done it on here.

www.4crawler.com would be the guy to talk to about making the kit.

4Crawler Offroad Products
 
I like the idea too :clap:

Someone with some good math skills should be able to figure out the thickness of each spacer based on the distance of the body mount locations from each. Then I bet Roger would be happy to cut them.

I wonder if the angle of the body on the spacer/mount would be enough to be a concern?

I’ll email him and ask if he’s done it on any other rig or if there’s any concerns we don’t know about.
 
Here is Roger’s response...

“Yes, have done a few tapered body lift kits. The rubber body mount bushings will handle the slight angle no problem. All we need is the spacings as mentioned on this page:

Toyota 4Runner/Hilux Surf Body Lift Kit Pricing/Ordering Page

We can also produce tapered or progressive body lift kits for custom applications:

  • In a tapered lift, the lift block heights are stepped up or down from front to back to help level the vehicle.
  • Add US$50.00 (item: TAPER) to the cost of the maximum desired lift kit and supply us with the following information:
    • Lift height front and rear as well as the horizontal distance between the body mount locations starting at the front.
    • For example on the 3rd gen 4Runner, Front-A = 54", A-B = 23", B-C = 38", C-Rear = 44" for the 5 body mounts.
Along with the desired front and rear heights. May need to adjust the bolt lengths a bit, in 1/2" or 10mm increments in the middle locations.”
 
Seems like a lot of coin ($50) for that, when just usually adding a small spacer (trim packer) somewhere in the front suspension usually can level out rake easily.
 
Seems like a lot of coin ($50) for that, when just usually adding a small spacer (trim packer) somewhere in the front suspension usually can level out rake easily.
Can’t add spacers to torsion bars.
 
Ahha. Hmm. slight crank up?
 
100 series have to have a slight rake or they become very twitchy and don't track well down the highway. Torsion bar adjustments will do nothing for fender clearance. This body lift is the equivalent of cutting an inch out of your front fender wheel lip....:).
 
Wondering if anyone tried this out? I’m contemplating a 1” body lift in the front. Was hoping to keep the rear at 0” as I already have a slee bumper back there. Would it be necessary to space the middle at all?
 
Wondering if anyone tried this out? I’m contemplating a 1” body lift in the front. Was hoping to keep the rear at 0” as I already have a slee bumper back there. Would it be necessary to space the middle at all?

Yeah, you would need to space the middle, less than the front
 
Yeah, you would need to space the middle, less than the front
I'm thinking a half an inch should do it for the middle. If I go any less i'm guessing it'll look a bit funny. Any thoughts on this from anybody?
 
I'm thinking a half an inch should do it for the middle. If I go any less i'm guessing it'll look a bit funny. Any thoughts on this from anybody?

You’ll need to know the relative distances of the body mounts and then work out the taper accordingly. Big triangle with the acute angle at the aft most body mount. you’ll need 3 different sizes. And the guys who do this on the 4 runners use rubber pucks
 
Since I produced my 1/2" and 1" BL kits, I've been asked several times on a 1" tapered kit.

Here is the rundown... You could do this with 4 pucks as the front and rear are negligible in reduction..



100 FRAME 1 TAPERED.jpg


1 tapered.jpg



UZJ100 frame 1.jpg
 
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Anyone actually do this? Any before and after pictures?
 
.0152
Since I produced my 1/2" and 1" BL kits, I've been asked several times on a 1" tapered kit.

Here is the rundown... You could do this with 4 pucks as the front and rear are negligible in reduction..



View attachment 2003383

View attachment 2003384


View attachment 2003385

The vertical change on each tapered spacer would be only ~.0152" (right around 1/64") You could easily let some rubber absorb that and not worry about getting the spacers machined with that shallow taper. Either add a small rubber pad or just let the rubber bushings do their thing.... or make the spacers out of something a bit softer, like UHWM or HDPE. As long as the spacers have the same life as the rubber bushings they sit on, seems like that'd be a pretty simple solution.

A DIY with a belt sander, a drill, and some calipers could knock this out pretty easily.
 
.0152


The vertical change on each tapered spacer would be only ~.0152" (right around 1/64") You could easily let some rubber absorb that and not worry about getting the spacers machined with that shallow taper. Either add a small rubber pad or just let the rubber bushings do their thing.... or make the spacers out of something a bit softer, like UHWM or HDPE. As long as the spacers have the same life as the rubber bushings they sit on, seems like that'd be a pretty simple solution.

A DIY with a belt sander, a drill, and some calipers could knock this out pretty easily.


I'd cut the the pucks to the taller spec and not worry about it. Maybe swap the old bushings for new. As far as DIY... knock yourself out, not interested in this product. Just posting the specs for guys to see what they need to make it happen on their own.

J
 
Jason, are you willing to do a 1.5” front to .5” rear? This will be my next change.

I'd be happy to spec the pucks for you buddy. But, not interested in cutting them.. I'd get a stick of 2.625" of your choice material and chop to specs and drill a 1/2" hole.. Like I said above; I'd probably order new bushings when doing this lift.

J
 
Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I just stumbled across this and found it quite interesting.

Anyone gone forward with a tapered body lift? This seems like a great option to lessen rake and lift the front without having to get into the expense, headache and suspension geometry issues of lifting the front.

With a 1" BL in the front you're looking at lowering the radiator or trimming the shroud, and maybe adjusting the steering and gear shift linkages. (every rig seems a little different) Only real complication would be adjusting up an aftermarket front bumper to fill the gap.
 
Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I just stumbled across this and found it quite interesting.

Anyone gone forward with a tapered body lift? This seems like a great option to lessen rake and lift the front without having to get into the expense, headache and suspension geometry issues of lifting the front.

With a 1" BL in the front you're looking at lowering the radiator or trimming the shroud, and maybe adjusting the steering and gear shift linkages. (every rig seems a little different) Only real complication would be adjusting up an aftermarket front bumper to fill the gap.
I did but it was after moving to an 08’ LX, so a 200 series. I chose to do 1 3/4” front tapered to 1 1/4” rear and it’s worked out perfectly for me. I knew I needed more room at the front to turn a 40” tire and the rear didn’t need to be as tall (although, now that I have a Tundra front suspension width, it would be nice to have the rear higher since the rear tires stick out so much further as I try to match the front with spacers). There is a little more info in this thread, but it is 200 series specific…

Yup. Fat Amy gets a body lift. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/yup-fat-amy-gets-a-body-lift.909549/

I ended up getting the bulk material from 4crawler.com, and having it cut (machined on a lathe technically) locally.
 

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