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Jun 24, 2003
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Takoma Park, MD
Wanted to start this thread to keep track of my build. Just trying to get the truck rolling again. I'm not looking to make it perfect, just want to enjoy driving it again.

I've already installed a cable locker in the front axle. I'm currently working on installing the locker in the rear axle. I made copies of the parking brake cable brackets and welded them to the correct location of the full floater. Also, I welded the bracket for the cable locker cover (where the new bolt is screwed in place). Since the axle came with sway bar brackets and the breather is located on the opposite side, I'm assuming the axle came off a truck or troop carrier. I've removed the sway bar brackets and the original breather can easily be plugged while one on the opposite side is drilled/tapped. The axle was sand blasted and painted with POR.

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Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Messages
1,182
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Takoma Park, MD
16 inch Split Rims

Last summer, I mounted a set of 16 inch split rims and followed the advise of another mud member. Purchased the inner tubes and flaps from OTR-offroadtire.com

TU11435 Radial Light Truck & Low Platform Inner Tube (700/750R15/16LT / TR75A) $25.60 each
FL84014 Bias tire flap (16-8.7) (6.50/7.00/7.50-16) (84014) $15.34 each

The tire lube was purchased through Gemplar's
Rema Tire Lubricant $23.40 1 tub (2 lifetime's supply)

The Rema tire talc was purchased via Amazon.

The tires are Goodyear Wrangler MT/R's LT265/75R16

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Joined
Jun 24, 2003
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1,182
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Takoma Park, MD
I'm digging out the parts for the full-floater rebuild and found the short side axle (long-splines) and the long-side axle. You can see the lengthened splines accommodate the distance required for the cog to slide in/out of the lock/unlock position. Also wanted to post pictures of the locking differential cover that bolts to the bracket mentioned earlier.

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Joined
Jun 24, 2003
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Takoma Park, MD
Just a little background on the project... I've been out of the land cruiser scene for the past 7 years or so. It's good to see some familiar names on the forum. Sad to learn of Marv passing away. He was a very down to Earth guy and had no problem taking my order personally when I needed some hard to find part. My project went into hibernation after and an ugly turn of events. I've forgotten a lot of tech over the years but it's starting to come back to me. Can't believe a 45LV sold for 100k+. In the photos below, I can't describe how good it felt to see the truck again. Can't wait to start up the 3B...

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Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Messages
1,182
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Takoma Park, MD
Oh funny... It does look that way given the sequence of photos. I can imagine the looks I'd have received on the 495 beltway if that were the case. I had boxes of parts to remove from the storage unit. So, I rented a truck & trailer for the day. It was sunny and hot as hell that day too. My fiancé was kind enough to assist me when she could. At that point, she fully understood my "cruiser addiction" and said, "yes" anyway. She doesn't believe that the truck was running just prior to hibernation.
 
Joined
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I found a picture of the front axle rebuild and cable locker installation. Only a little bit of grinding of the differential opening and I think I used a 70-series long spline inner axle to make it all work.

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Factory Soft Top Bows & 1-Piece Tail Gate

Moved some boxed items around today and found some of the soft top bows frame bits needed for assembly. Bought the 65 FJ40 for $500 in 2001-ish. It was very rusty but came with a nice drop down tailgate, soft top bows, original doors and was running. Took what I needed and sold the rest. Made enough off the sale of the leftovers to buy a Kayline replacement vinyl top.

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Joined
Jun 24, 2003
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Takoma Park, MD
Factory Power Steering to the BJ42

I currently have almost all of the parts to add factory power steering. I recently removed the steering column to perform the following modification to the intermediate shaft described in the following article excerpt:

Toyota Trails March/April 1998; page 44

"How I Survived adding OEM Power Steering to my FJ40" by Tim Stevens

One Last Trick Up Its Sleeve

North American FJ40s with p/s from 1979 and early 1980 used a one-piece steering shaft. A check of the appropriate parts list shows that two different shafts were offered - one longer, one shorter I'm guessing. In 8/80, Toyota switched (probably due to North American DOT rules) to a 2-piece, collapsible steering shaft assembly. In these later FJ40s and BJ42s a short "intermediate shaft" attaches to the gearbox and couples to the longer main shaft at the firewall. This change proved to be beneficial to me, since the intermediate shaft became the part that was offered in two sizes. It is relatively small, and it's easy to remove and replace or modify.

Once I confirmed that a shorter steering column was in order, I decided to make the needed change. Although I had attached the p/s gearbox to the original shaft without shortening it, I don't recommend this. I suspect that it places unnecessary strain on the flexible coupler and the joint between the two shafts, and could prove unsafe over time. What I'm going to describe next applies to the 2-piece '80-'84 FJ/BJ steering column assembly.

The operation to make the desired change proved to be relatively painless - kind of anticlimactic. After detaching three electrical connectors next to the steering column, I disconnected the steering column assembly from the (a) gearbox coupler (2 bolts), (b) inside firewall (4 bolts), and (c) dashboard (2 larger bolts) - the nice thing about FJ40s is that much of the connecting hard ware is relatively easy to get at. A snap-ring holds a rubber grease-gasket seal in place at the joint between the intermediate and main shafts - invest in some snap-ring pliers to make removal easy. The intermediate shaft is apparently meant to have some freedom of horizontal motion within a grease bath at the junction-joint at the end of the main shaft. With the snap-ring removed, it is relatively easy to use the intermediate shaft to help force the seal up the shaft and out of the joint, freeing the end of the intermediate shaft from that joint.

The driver's-end of the intermediate shaft has a metal pin through it perpendicularly, about one-half inch from its end. The two exposed ends of the pin hold metal anti-vibration blocks in small track-groves in the grease-filled joint at the end of the main shaft. If this sounds complex, don't worry. It is actually less confusing once you see it. Once separated, the rest of the steering column with steering wheel attached, can be carefully put aside. I first decided to try and find a used intermediate shaft from an FJ40 with p/s. After searching my previous sources, and calling around to Land Cruiser used parts suppliers, I came up empty-handed. Then I re-attached the steering column assembly, minus the intermediate shaft, and did some measurements in the empty space the intermediate shaft used to occupy. I calculated that a replacement intermediate shaft would have to be 7/8 of an inch shorter. Be sure to measure, as the length change may vary slightly from truck to truck or among model-years.

I made the choice to have a professional machine shop do the work. Although the shaft is regular "mild" steel as helpful subscribers on the Land Cruiser e-mail list confirmed, I didn't want to slip with my tools and ruin a rare part. I was able to order a new grease seal and shaft pin from Toyota - they still have this small stuff. A local shop was able to press out the old pin, cut off 7/8 of an inch of extra shaft length, clean up the end, remove the old seal and slip on a new one, re-drill a hole for the pin about 1/2 of an inch from the new end, and insert a new pin. Cost, about $50.
 
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Ambrew

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Good job, and good luck! it's a lot of fun to put back together. Nothing like driving it for the first time with a milkcrate as a seat and only a tub for a body.....
 
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
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Got this in the mail today. Hoping to add factory air to the project after I've got it rolling again. I'm probably going to scan and share it if anyone needs the information.

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Joined
Jun 24, 2003
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The semi-floater is gone and I now have the modified full-floater bolted up. Ordered a pair of FJ62 backing plates a couple months ago and they are identical to the ones removed. I misplaced the seal that bolts in place with the backing plate. So, I ordered another set this morning. Should be here by The end of the week. Once they arrive, I can install the hub, differential & axle shafts.

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Joined
Jun 24, 2003
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Found these while looking for parts I'd packed away many years ago. I didn't see anything about this modification written up when I did a search. So, I wanted to go ahead and document it here. Here we have a mono, AM/FM Matsushita/Panasonic radio found in Toyota vehicles. I can't remember, but I think this one (far left) is from a hilux/pickup. The knob needed to be positioned differently to accommodate the the 40-series faceplate. The pickup and 60-series version has the knobs slightly moved outwards and these can be easily modified with: RC car part (ball joint), drill bit, appropriate tap, Dremel tool and soldering iron.

The brass drive-shaft looking part is the one that needs to be modified. Noticed the different lengths. The shorter one was pull from a broken 40-series AM radio. The AM radio I salvaged the part from was a Matsushita not TEN radio. This part turns the tuner and the dial indicator. For the mono AM/FM radio, I chopped off the ball joint from the longer drive shaft like those pictured for example, drilled/tapped the part to accept the RC car part pictured (black ball with threaded end), drilled the ball to accept the pin and reassemble.

Some of you looking for a 40-series radio, might have better luck finding and modifying a radio from another Toyota vehicle. As for the faceplate & knobs... Maybe 3D printing will allow us to reproduce them (I believe this is becoming more and more feasible as the technology matures and becomes readily available).

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Here's the AM/FM radio with a 40-series faceplate and knobs from a similar vintage Hilux/Pickup. The radio on the right is mono and the one on the left is stereo:

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Joined
Jun 24, 2003
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Takoma Park, MD
The axle seals arrived a day early. So, back to reassembling the axle. This is the third full-floater that I've rebuilt and I'm glad I picked up the Toyota SST from OTC/SPX. I bought the SST about 10 years ago and I don't recall it being terribly expensive. Here's how the tool fits into the bearing lock nut to set the pre-load.

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Waiting on some brake hardware to arrive. In the meantime, I'm planning on merging these into a compatible transmission & transfer case for the 3B.

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Joined
Jan 8, 2004
Messages
408
The semi-floater is gone and I now have the modified full-floater bolted up. Ordered a pair of FJ62 backing plates a couple months ago and they are identical to the ones removed. I misplaced the seal that bolts in place with the backing plate. So, I ordered another set this morning. Should be here by The end of the week. Once they arrive, I can install the hub, differential & axle shafts.

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Hi, what year full floater axle is This? I have a full floater from a 1978 fj45 and I'm wondering it I can order the same backing plates to give myself an e-brake option. Going to run an h55 transmission in my truck and trying to figure out what my ebrake options will be

Thx
 
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It's 81+ and there's a different bolt pattern. There's a late model full-floater for sale in the classifieds, it's located in Texas and already has the breather in the correct spot and parking brake cable bracket. Brake parts are easy to find. I've been giving the parts guys at the dealer an FJ62 vin since I typically get a blank stare when I tell them what I have. Most of the brake parts, including the parking brake cable can be had at the local parts chain.

I believe you can use a 70-series full-floater and the only thing you'll need to do is relocate the spring perches. This also gives you the updated setup with the integrated parking brake.

On the 5-speed swap, the clearance of the rear tube cross-member is very tight. Also, the transfer case linkage is something you'll need to figure out along with the top loader. The top loader moves the shifter to the correct location of the transmission panel.

Don't know them personally, but here's a couple links:

For Sale: - 70 Series Full Floating axles Complete (NorCal)

For Sale: - 2 FJ40 rear Full Floater axles with Ebrake



Hi, what year full floater axle is This? I have a full floater from a 1978 fj45 and I'm wondering it I can order the same backing plates to give myself an e-brake option. Going to run an h55 transmission in my truck and trying to figure out what my ebrake options will be

Thx
 
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Joined
Jan 8, 2004
Messages
408
Thanks for the reply.

It's cost prohibitive for me to purchase another axle and have it shipped since I am in Canada. It is ridiculou$ what happens as soon as items have to cross over the border. The costs would be astronomical to both the shipping company and our lovely Canadian government who will want to make some money off of it. More to the point, I'm looking to work with what I have rather than buy even more Cruiser gear :)

The bolt pattern on that 81 full floater looks very close (if not identical) to the pattern on my 78 full floater...time to do some digging around I think....

Thanks again.

Adam
 
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
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Takoma Park, MD
Are you sure it's the same? Some full-floaters with the 4-bolt pattern backing plate didn't come with a parking brake.

4-bolts newer version and 6-bolts for the older type.

Easiest route in my honest opinion: that 70-series setup (it's in Canada if you're worried about import costs), mod the rear axle(add brackets to match the 45 setup, move spring perches) & sell the front axle to recover some of the costs. Then add an electric locker on the "to do list"
 
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