Before installing the new clutch, 5-speed & rebuilt transfer case, I wanted to address the oil pan leak. I assumed the rear main seal was leaking too. When I removed the rear main seal from the aluminum retainer, it was brittle and there were some hairline cracks perpendicular to the sealing surface. I swapped in an aftermarket rear main seal. Here's a shot of everything right before removing the retainer.
Reinstalled the new seal rear main seal and retainer using a clicker styler torque wrench. The FSM recommended 13 ft-lbs for the six bolts holding the rear main seal retainer in place. I followed up with a torque meter to make sure they were within the recommended range and the clicker style was about 2 ft-lbs too loose.
Had the flywheel resurfaced at a local machine shop for $65. They would have resurfaced it while I waited. I wasn't in a hurry, so I picked it up the next day.
Finally getting around to installing the clutch kit I picked last spring from Cruiser Outfitters:
I replaced the fuel filter with an OEM unit and notice the new unit had rubber seals for the banjo fittings. The original fuel filter had copper washers instead. I was on the fence to reuse the copper washers instead of the rubber seals. I’m hoping I don’t regret going with the rubber seals that came with the part.
The part was in a sealed Toyota bag with the bleed plug incorrectly installed on the inlet instead of the outlet.
I’m replacing all of the 1/4” hard fuel lines with 316L marine grade stainless steel and the rubber fuel lines with 1/4” fuel injection line hoses (Gates 27339)
Minor set back... I checked the pre-load at the output flange and I'll need to add a shim to get it within specs. It's close, but not within the range of what the FSM states. At least the the PTO gearbox is bolted up. Should be attaching the cross member soon too.
From the FSM:
22. ADJUST REAR OUTPUT SHAFT PRELOAD
(a) Install the rear output shaft rear bearing retainer.
NOTE: Align the bearing retainer rib with the case.
(b) Torque the six bolts.
Torque: 350 kg-cm (25 in.-lb, 34 N·m)
(c) Shift the transfer lever to the "N" position.
(d) Temporarily install the rear companion flange lock nut.
(e) Using a torque meter, measure the rear output shaft preload. (Starting torque)
Preload:
New bearing 15 - 24.7 kg-cm
(13.0 - 21.4 in.-lb, 1.5 - 2.4 N·m)
Reused bearing 7 - 12 kg-cm
(6.1 - 10.4 in.-lb, 0.7 - 1.2 N·m)
If the preload is not within specification, remove the outer race of the rear output shaft bearing with SST 09514-35011.
Took a class on powder coating and I’m working on powder coating all body parts except for the tub at the moment. Need one more coat to get the bib where I want it.
Update: Here’s the final coat and now it’s time to assemble the bits and clear out some more boxes from storage in the process:
Here’s a list of parts and p/n:
Mesh grill bushing: 90541-06008
Head lamp adjusting screws: 81131-10031
Head lamp tension spring: 081121-62010
Head lamp adjusting screw plastic retainer: 90189-05103
Took a class on powder coating and I’m working on powder coating all body parts except for the tub at the moment. Need one more coat to get the bib where I want it.
It took me a bit of trial an error to get the pressure regulators right on the gun. I have a Spectracoat & fluidizer setup that I bought secondhand. The larger pieces take some extra time with each coating since the powder acts as an insulator. The metal needs to get to temperature for the powder to flow.
Here’s the windshield frame in the powder booth getting a second coat. It was modified to allow for the soft top rail to bolt to the top of the frame.
Attached the OEM soft top channel with stainless steel hardware after powder coating. Attaching the wiper arms & wiper linkages required the following seals and hardware:
Using an aftermarket dash pad from FJ40dash which requires a little bit of setup prior to installation. You will need your OEM bits to complete the install. Here’s what I used to trim the opening for the dash light:
Here is the aftermarket dash pad beside the OEM dash pad used to determine the size/dimensions of the dash light opening. After cutting the square opening, the dash light was test fit. Further trimming was required to get the dash light to mount flush to the opening.
I found an original dash pad retainer that had a bit of surface rust. Cleaned it up with Evaporust before prep & paint with flat black Krylon ColorMax. I also masked off and painted the metal support that was exposed on the reverse side of the dash pad.
Finally installed the dash pad after finding some decent knobs/hardware to replace the bolts my windshield came with.
Had my gas tank boiled, blasted & coated inside/out. There was about a cm of sludge in the bottom of the tank.
Here’s a picture of the pickup/return and the tank before dropping it off with Tank Renu. I’m bending new pickup/return lines out of 316L marine grade stainless. I’ll braze these to a new plate I machined out of stainless too.
The new fuel sender, gasket and stainless steel hardware: M4-0.7 x 10mm button hex head screws and M4 spring washers
Doors & Windshield Frame installed. Pictured is a Kayline replacement OEM soft top. Bought it new from SOR 15 years ago and just got around to unpacking it.
Pulled the truck out of the garage and washed out the interior. I found quite a bit of sand I’m pretty sure from my lifeguarding and surfing days in Buxton, NC.
I picked up a bench top lathe and machined my own 316 stainless steel hinge pins & oilite bronze bushing:
I mounted OEM FST hinges to late model hard doors. Easy to remove if I feel like it. Surprised how indistinguishable they are from the original hinges as I open and close the door each time. I was worried about the weight difference of the hard top doors. They seem to be okay. Found a vendor on EBay selling door hinge/door pilar gaskets. The gaskets weren’t OEM but they worked out well. The same vendor sold door hinge/door gaskets which weren’t as firm as OEM.
All the tube nuts aligned with the wheel cylinders and brake line junction. The hard line clips/brackets were aligned to straight sections of tubing where they should too.
Less room for error on these short caliper to backing plates lines. Scratched my caliper paint job trying to align the threads. I guess I can touch that up later.
Thanks @Onur . At first, I had misplaced where I stored the lines. Almost said F-it and looked into buying OEM. I’m even more surprised how much people are marking up available parts and listing them on EBay (including brake lines).
I decided to go all in on the tools to bend up new fuel & brake lines. I’ve already been working on some fuel related items too:
