Cruisers and Co
Supporting Vendor
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2023
- Threads
- 6
- Messages
- 702
- Location
- Westminster, Colorado
- Website
- www.cruisersandcompany.com
Do it, Wes is awesome!
Stuck - mo powa baby
- Thread starter zeroecco
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #44
EGR is fixed. New issue has cropped up:
When AC is on car will nearly die when I hear an audible relay click in the cab. I am guessing that is the ac turn off and on to prevent freezing. Need to find a few hours to pull the IAC I think to make sure it is not gummed up
When AC is on car will nearly die when I hear an audible relay click in the cab. I am guessing that is the ac turn off and on to prevent freezing. Need to find a few hours to pull the IAC I think to make sure it is not gummed up
Try keeping the weight down with mods. 7-8K pounds is a lot more than stock.
When you say it feels like the truck is tearing itself apart at 60 mph, does that mean the engine is straining or the truck is shaking?
A healthy 80 should easily hold 75 mph with a smooth ride on relatively flat ground.
When you say it feels like the truck is tearing itself apart at 60 mph, does that mean the engine is straining or the truck is shaking?
A healthy 80 should easily hold 75 mph with a smooth ride on relatively flat ground.
When the time comes it's easier to pull the whole throttle body, then pull the IAC off from there. Cleaning the IAC passages in the throttle body, doing the FSM tests on the IAC stepper motor, and dialing in the TPS settings as well as the throttle cables helps a lot in the drivability of these.
After doing all of this on mine the idle is spot on at 650rpm and adjusts as it should when the AC is on.
- Thread starter
- #47
right now the car comes in at 6034lb with full tank of fuel and me in it. I have bumpers and platform planned. that _should_ put me at 7K-is pounds. Sorry I wasn't super clear on that.
Engine felt like it was straining and out of balance. As it rev'd up to 4K engine felt exactly like trying to over rev any piston engine out there. That unbalanced feeling while revving got fixed with the new TPS. Engine feels like it is straining still but I can at least handle 60MPH going flat or uphill (even if I am revving it out a bit to maintain 60MPH uphill).
- Thread starter
- #48
I think you are right that the last thing I need to fix for idling issues is the IAC. I know for a fact the TB is completely gross on the inside and needs a cleaning. I just need to bite the bullet and do it.
If you are not a purist, LS swap it for mo power. Its night and day. 1fzfe parts sourcing is sunsetting. You will face a cross road at some point. Looks like your past skills will help DIY.
I am content with FZJ80 and FJ80 power when using stock (or nearly stock) tire sizes. It sounds like something is wrong here. Sure, you can LS swap it, and that may be the route you're happiest with. We drive in the mountains and pull trailers without much issue. Not winning any races, of course.
I'd keep at it and see if something is going on. Having someone drive your rig, and vice versa, would be a great idea to know more of what to expect.
I'd keep at it and see if something is going on. Having someone drive your rig, and vice versa, would be a great idea to know more of what to expect.
- Thread starter
- #51
this weekend replaced the distributor cap, rotor, and cleaned the IAC. Car now idles exactly like it should. It still over revs on cold start but that is likely because I need to clean the throttle body. God I hate the EGR...
On a cold start mine revs up and will eventually return to idle. I'm pretty sure this is normal.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
This is completely normal 1000-1200 rpm for a little bit then down to the standard 650-700 at idle.
Yes it is. Cold idle speed is in the FSM. Why to say 1400rpm, but car remember.
When i had vacuum leaks, mine would cold idle at 1800rpm. Very annoying!
@Fj80oregon beat me to the punch 
and probably with the right number
and probably with the right number
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
I’m just guessing, my truck usually does 1100-1200 on cold start. Just a read a few post 14-1600 seems pretty normal also. Gonna check the FSM to get a solid number. Lots of guys saying vacuum leaks causing 18-19-2000 on cold idle starts and fixing all the vacuum leaks lowers those numbers quit a bit.@Fj80oregon beat me to the punch
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2009
- Threads
- 2
- Messages
- 46
Did they also tint your windshield with Ceramic tint? Place I went to wouldn’t do the windshield while it was still on the car.
This makes me think I still have a few leaks to tackle.
I've occasionally still got an idle problem, but mine is much improved through a few things in the last year.
But there are days when I start it and it's perfect cold idle. And there are days when I start it and it idles up to 1200 and climbs to 1600. Especially if I put my foot on the brake to get ready to shift.
I do know I have a slight leak in the valve cover gasket. I guess it was pinched when it went on last August. Got a new oil cap, new PCV, almost all hoses new. But thinking that intake hose is going to have to get changed.
Unlike OP though, my 94 is on 35s, weighs 5500lb with me in it and a full tank of gas. I checked the scales the other day. But I have no issues holding 68 on the highway. I could do 90 passing someone with no issue most days.
But I do know that I have all broken clips on my injectors, and I need a new throttle cable. So cleaning injectors, replacing the connectors, and throttle cable, and I intake tube. Plus it sounds like checking the IAC.
I don't have EGR or PAIRS anymore though, so I've already eliminated that issue. And fixed an O2 CEL issue earlier in the year by replacing those.
Glad to see OP is getting the issues sorted though. This truck looks beautiful. And man I'm jealous of those scheelmann seats. I've got cloth swapped into mine, but I'd kill for a set of new seats.
Another source of vacuum leak for me that also VASTLY improved brake performance was the big vacuum hose that goes from the throttle body to the booster. It was hard and full of micro cracks. I can promise yours is the same if its hard. Changing that might make a world of difference.
- Thread starter
- #60
It took some convincing, but yes they did the windshield