Stuck - mo powa baby

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it's possible. it's very possible. the OBD1 says everything is a-ok (blinky light no stops), baseline had a ton of things done.
I reset the computer
calibrated the transmission cable, throttle cable and cruise cable
cleaned injectors
new ignition minus the coil and distributor itself, 3 degrees btdc
checked air flow meter per fsm
new tps
new iac
replaced all vacuum hoses
new radiator and hoses
transmission flush
transfer case flush
zerked all fittings under the car
checked new plugs after 1000 miles and they are a beautiful brown... except 5 and 6, they look like they have never been used... not wet, just very very clean
no coolant leaks, no air bubbles in radiator during leakdown
no loss of coolant
2 years after I installed my turbo I finally had it I had done everything excepts replace that Catalytic converters. Turns out they were super blocked off. it changed everything. You might try this next.
 
Took the car on a 3 hour drive this weekend. 70-75 MPH was doable unless I hit hills.
I am getting some stumbling from the engine under load, so I think spark plug wires and igniter are next.

I am going to delete the EGR from this car. There are better ways to keep this thing clean instead of ruining everything in the intake track.

orikawa door cards arrive tomorrow. will post pics once it is installed. Also got the solve function tweeter mount so I may need to replace the front door speakers soon
 
spoke with local Maaco as well, 4800 to repaint the whole truck in factory color. If I get my promotion in december, I will likely have the car done in January
 
More news, after cleaning the throttle body ( thanks brake cleaner ), I have discovered how bad the leaks are in the exhaust. both o2 bungs are leaking and the cats are leaking as well... so much to do here
 
door cards landed. I am adding the amazon door deadening to the inside of each panel and will have photos once things are in.
 
welp passanger door done

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I did have to add a spacer to get the speaker to fit, and knuckles do rub on the grab handle. That is all though. fit and finish are exactly as advertised.

@orikawa these are not deal breakers but my own thoughts for a future version:
1. Add a small indent on the grab handle area if possible, knuckles rub
2. Option sound deadening, after adding it to my panel I would say it is 100% worth it. Increased the "solideness" of the door if nothing else.
 
Ah I thought you were putting sound deadening INSIDE the door panel, like peeling back the vapor barrier and putting it on the outside shell of the door. I've heard that this helps with the closing feeling more mercedes like. 🤣

I get why you might do this too though. I bet it definitely helps.

But the thing about the knuckles is good feed back. I want these door panels, but I could see my wife complaining about that. I wish I could see a set in person and feel them. I like the industrial-ness of it. But the stark emptiness of the panel is kind of sad too. HAHA.
 
Putting sound deadening on the door skin itself is the single biggest improvement for sound that you can do. I only did 50% coverage on my doors and it was a massive difference for sound and feel. I recommend FatMat always. Price and quality are spot on.

There are 12 thick washers that can go behind the interior door handle screws if the added thickness of the sound damping makes it hard to get the handle surround on.

What kind of speakers are those ? They're the deepest looking speakers I've seen in recent memory.
 
Putting sound deadening on the door skin itself is the single biggest improvement for sound that you can do. I only did 50% coverage on my doors and it was a massive difference for sound and feel. I recommend FatMat always. Price and quality are spot on.

There are 12 thick washers that can go behind the interior door handle screws if the added thickness of the sound damping makes it hard to get the handle surround on.

What kind of speakers are those ? They're the deepest looking speakers I've seen in recent memory.
I went the amazon basics route due to a number of youtube videos suggesting it. Costs like 23 bucks to cover two door cards.

Speakers are focal 6.5 inch (PC165SF). They are very deep, but they punch hard enough to not need a sub. I had to add a 15mm spacer to make it fit without contacting the door frame.

Thanks for the washer thing! I didn't know what they were for and was scratching my head all morning thinking about it
 
drivers side door in...

rear doors later this week
 
all door cards in. Cabin noise dropped by 6 decibels to a nominal 61 on the freeway. big big improvements on the smell of the interior as well. very happy so far.
 
Where did you get those grey door interior pieces? I'm assuming you trimmed the soundproofing to fit?
 
Where did you get those grey door interior pieces? I'm assuming you trimmed the soundproofing to fit?
I pulled the hardware off the original door cards and attached them to the orikawa door cards. I used amazon basics sound deadening at 100% coverage. A pair of sheers did the cutting quite nicely from harbor freight
 
spoke with magnuson today, they have a 95-97 brand new super charger kit for me if I want it. $8500 promised 27% more power, what say the brain trust?
 
But you have a 94🤔

I think there is a turbo kit in production for OBD1 trucks. I don't feel its necessary personally, but I haven't tried driving at 5000-10000ft yet.
 

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