Standalone E-Locker wiring DIY

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40LandCruising

Anderson
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
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Mauldin, SC
I recently wired in front and rear E-locker in my 1994 FZJ80 using stand alone harnesses. These harnesses use a rocker style switch and only need power and a ground, no locker computer like the factory wiring.

I did this wiring for a HP8" E-locker, and a LP9.5" E-Locker, but the wiring is exactly the same for a LP8" E-Locker. The plugs are a different shape, and the wires are different colors. But from what I've found, the wire positions all do the same thing.

Side note - you can use a LP8" actuator on a HP8" locker. My buddy and I found that out. The only difference is the 6 pin plug. I have no idea why Toyota used different plugs on 80s vs 4Runners. I figured it had to be manufacturing related.

And Fun fact, the windshield wiper 6 pin connector on a 1994 FZJ80, is the same as the 6 pin connector on a LP8" E-Locker out of a 3rd Gen 4Runner

Now For the actual wiring

For the 6 pin connector, you use 5 of the pins. I am using the FEMALE numbering convention found below. Which is as seen from the face of the connector, the side that actually plugs in.
image.png


Position 1 - Empty
Position 2 - Blue
Position 3 - Green
Position 4 - White
Position 5 - Red
Position 6 - Yellow

image.png

For the 2 pin connector, looking at the face of the connector, Left is 1, right is 2

Position 1 - Brown
Position 2 - Orange

Note - These colors are the colors of the wire I used, and will correspond to terminals on the rocker switch. They do not match factory wire colors.

Rocker switch
image.png


I do not know who created the numbering convention for rocker switches, but this is it, so we'll roll with it.

Position 8 - 12V +
Position 1 - 12V +
Position 2 - Blue
Position 3 - Yellow
Position 10 - Empty

Position 7 - Orange
Position 4 - Red
Position 5 - Green
Position 6 - 12V +
Position 9 - Ground, White, Brown

The 3 12V+ wires get jumped across the back of the switch

I spliced the white and brown wires together off the 2 connectors into one wire, then crimped that wire into a spade with the ground running to the body.

I am sure there are other ways to do this, but I found this to be the easiest. I know this works, I used it for a full week of wheeling in Moab and a couple trips to Windrock.

Hope this helps someone
 
I ordered my rocker switches from OTRATTW
You can customize the picture and text, I changed the text, forgot to change the picture, so I have a boat tiller on mine lol
They offer both incandescent and LED bulbs, the LEDs were back ordered when I got mine so I had to go incandescent. But I do recommend LED for longevity. I've attached a picture of the switches my buddy ordered that I copied. However I made both of mine green lenses.

For my rear e locker, I had both factory plugs.(Front and rear plugs are the same) For the front I did not.
The 2 pin plug I scavenged off a 1st gen tundra transfer case position switch at the junkyard. It's a common plug for most Toyotas of the era with a position switch.
For the 6pin plug I ordered new plugs from aliexpress, it felt sketchy, but they were cheap and they showed up. And were exactly what I needed. I ordered 10 sets of the male and female plug, just the female showed up, but that's exactly what I needed.

These standard rocker switches fit in the factory blank holes in the 80 dash with a little razor knife work to the opening in the dash.

IMG_7219.webp


IMG_7220.webp


IMG_5977.webp
 
And obligatory Moab pics, it was a game changer having lockers front and rear and ridiculous amount of traction. I'm used to wheeling the south east.

They got the big girl through Pritchett Canyon!(with some winching I will admit)

IMG_6140.webp


IMG_6120.webp


IMG_6041.webp


IMG_6031.webp


IMG_6029.webp
 
I had to convert my electrical lockers to air actuators because I could not figure out the wiring as a standalone. This is tremendous.
Many thanks for the legwork
 
Nice. No relays? Good to know this works ok

I did this years ago, but used relays. So much simpler without relays!

The Toyota e-locker ECU is basically a set of relays with some logic to override your options.
 
They're toggle switches sending power to the motor all the time? I guess those motors are pretty though but seems hard on it, would be sitting there making heat the whole time they're on. I've done this before but using a momentary switch, just push on the switch for 1 sec that's enough to engage it. then you can use the position switch inside the motor to operate the light. Good job getting the right plugs instead up hacking up the connectors.
 
I have a rear 80 series e-locker in my 60 and wired it with an on-off-on Carling rotary switch and a pair of relays. I don't like the idea of constant 12v being delivered to the locker which is why I'm using the 3 position switch. Once locked I'll flip the switch back to off and the locker will remain engaged until I flip the switch in the other "on" direction. Once unlocked it's back to off. I'm installing a pair of locked axles in my 80 and while I have all of the OEM wiring and dash switch I'm planning on setting the locker controls similar to what I have with 60. I followed this wiring diagram to wire the switch and relays to the locker.

Rear locker relay wiring.webp
 
They're toggle switches sending power to the motor all the time?

I didn't notice that.
I think i definitely would want momentary switches if directly wired. I used momentary switches when I wired mine up with relays. Occasionally, you'd be driving one handed, one hand holding a switch, waiting for a locker to engage.
Part of the oem ECU function is the relays cut power once the locker is engaged or disengaged.
You could flick the switches back to OFF once the Red Indicator light was showing they are locked, but easy to forget this.

I think, can't remember for sure, the actuators are designed so power to the windings is cut internally once the actuator reaches full travel in each direction. Sliding electrical contacts internally break the circuit.
Pretty certain the CDL actuator is like this, but so certain about front and rear actuators.
 
Here's the circuit for using a manual DPDT toggle switch that utilizes the actuator limit switches.

Diff Lock with Manual Switch.webp


I was skeptical about this design because the full motor current runs through the limit switches, which were designed to switch relays only, but I think that since you can operate the motor with the current from a 9V battery, it isn't that much current.
 
Nice. No relays? Good to know this works ok

I did this years ago, but used relays. So much simpler without relays!

The Toyota e-locker ECU is basically a set of relays with some logic to override your options.
Yep no relays!
 
They're toggle switches sending power to the motor all the time? I guess those motors are pretty though but seems hard on it, would be sitting there making heat the whole time they're on. I've done this before but using a momentary switch, just push on the switch for 1 sec that's enough to engage it. then you can use the position switch inside the motor to operate the light. Good job getting the right plugs instead up hacking up the connectors.
These are momentary switches, they only send power when you are holding them down. The switch lights up when the locker is engaged via the signal from the position switch.
 
Here's the circuit for using a manual DPDT toggle switch that utilizes the actuator limit switches.

...

I was skeptical about this design because the full motor current runs through the limit switches, which were designed to switch relays only, but I think that since you can operate the motor with the current from a 9V battery, it isn't that much current.

Yep no relays!

Yea, but if (when) something gets stuck, the power it takes to blow the fuse will flow through the limit circuit. Not worth skimping on relays, IMO.

I drew a circuit to do it with a tiny arduino and transistors once, but didn't actually build it. :doh:

If one were to do this you could add hall effects sensors and measure the current it takes to lock and unlock and have a red-yellow-green led indicator or a small LCD display for that so you know when something is up. It's a tiny circuit, maybe 1/2"x1"x4".
 
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Yea, but if (when) something gets stuck, the power it takes to blow the fuse will flow through the limit circuit. Not worth skimping on relays, IMO.
There, I added a 1A fuse. Better?

Diff Sw w_fuse.webp
 
I did this nearly 30 years ago with the 1985 4Runner in my profile pic. Wrote an article on how to wire it up on a now defunct website (4x4wire.com). I used the FJ80 locker dash switch though.
Karl? Is that you? Whoa... flashback!

The debate of relays vs no relays has been waging since these lockers appeared on the market back in the later 90's. I always did the relays, some of it because of the reasons stated here. "Toyota didn't run full motor current through the limit switches, so neither was I" was my final answer. Besides I like doing fun electrical wiring and over- complicating things.
 
Karl? Is that you? Whoa... flashback!

The debate of relays vs no relays has been waging since these lockers appeared on the market back in the later 90's. I always did the relays, some of it because of the reasons stated here. "Toyota didn't run full motor current through the limit switches, so neither was I" was my final answer. Besides I like doing fun electrical wiring and over- complicating things.


Hey Ken! I know more now than I did then. 😁 Today, I would design a purpose-built PCB with relays or a motor controller from Sparkfun.
 
Hey Ken! I know more now than I did then. 😁
Don't we all! I still remember that day back in... 1998? when we stabbed that new e-locker into your rear axle in my driveway.

I made my relay box from scratch, it's still in the back of my '87 Xtra cab, which is now residing in Tucson AZ.

Do you still have the white 4Runner? Did you ever get the Supra motor finished up?

Interesting project with the LX, hope it all goes as planned!
 
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