I'm just happy I'm not the guy upset about carrying an extra 18mm wrench.
stainless brake hoses
- Thread starter Jim_Chow
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I'm just happy I'm not the guy upset about carrying an extra 18mm wrench.
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
Had to go back nearly 11 years to find some support and Bryan E. put it much better than I could have. It's not just the 18mm size, revised routing, different gaskets, or retainer clip or anything else..it's the summation of all of that and the total deviation from an OEM experience. All of my points are acknowledged and agreed upon by the vendor. They install just fine and will work out great for nearly everyone unless they want it to fit like a Toyota part - which I mistakenly expected when I ordered these.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
My only value to this forum is posting $hitty GIF and meme responses late at night while halfway through a Jack Daniels bottle.
However, specific to the recent posts above, I’ll add this: I replaced all of my brake lines with OEM Toyota, but doing so had absolutely nothing to do with anyone’s experiences with the @sleeoffroad (or other) SS lines. I’m an ‘OEM till death do us part’ kinda guy. Nevertheless, I do think the complaints about needing an 18mm wrench, the brass not copper washers, and the tightness of the retaining clip are nitpicking and borderline irrelevant. Why would you not carry an 18mm wrench in your off-road toolkit? Although, every time I’ve busted a brake line I just clamped it off until I could get back home. Also, Just buy the damn copper Toyota washers if you don’t like the Slee ones. Hell, I remember thinking to myself that I wished the OEM clips were *tighter*. But to each their own.
I installed these lines over a year ago and didn't recall needing anything but a 10mm flare nut wrench for tightening the fittings. The 18mm nut on the hose is simply a back stop-there's no need to put a wrench on it. Is my memory failing me?
I've been following this for a few days trying to understand from the Clay's perspective his gripe with the lines, and honestly I fail to see any mechanical relevancy to the argument with the possible exception of the banjo fittings not having the centering pin. Mechanically this doesn't present a stability of connection or clearance issue. The locking pin type OEM banjo is more likely there for production efficiency to quickly zip the hose onto the caliper with out holding the fitting from rotating. The angle of the fitting hasn't been a problem, nor is the hose routing or clearance. I dont see where the hose can get hung up or hooked any more or less than an OEM hose. Personally, I haven't experienced any problem with the banjo on Slee's lines, haven't hooked the lines on anything.
REAR- hose resides on the back side of the axle-protected
FRONT- hose resides on back side of axle- protected
Hose Fitting Clips: the thick hose clips provide a snug fit and that is what you want. Reuse the OEM if you prefer something different- Again- why do you need an 18mm wrench on an immovable joint? The torque is applied to the brake line fitting not the hose end.
Crush Washers: Copper or Aluminum- OEM or Aftermarket- All crush washers at the banjo fittings are SINGLE USE- OEM or Aftermarket. Not sure I see the gripe. If you reuse, then you'll get leaks. The OEM banjo washers are aluminum, and certainly a clever design as they are joined together for easy install but they are no better at sealing the banjo to the caliper than simple copper washers. Again its a preferential problem, not a mechanical deficiency.
Why do we buy aftermarket stainless braided lines in the first place? I chose stainless braided lines to replace the OEM reinforced rubber hose because I wanted a lifetime solution as the hoses won't likely wear out in the useable lifetime of my vehicle and because there isn't hydraulic pressure loss from hose expansion during braking, so all that booster pressure is directed to the caliper piston for better braking feel & control.
Now to Slee's rebuttal; I think there's always room for consideration to product improvement if it's warranted. With more specific demand to your hose maker/supplier they could source with a little added effort. FWIW the banjo fittings Toyota uses are available somewhere in the aftermarket since there is a supplier providing a similar fitting on their stainless braided lines.
SafeBrake Australia- (made in Indonesia) available on eBay.
SafeBrake service has been hit or miss which is why I chose the Slee's product because I know when they put their name on a product- its been tested and proven- it's a quality part and I trust that they stand behind their products. Easy choice if it's available.... maybe you would save a sale or two if you put a note on your webpage with a "back in stock date" for the brake hoses.
I'm far from being a Slee fanboy but If anyone is on the fence about their stainless braided hoses, I would encourage you look beyond the complaints. IMO they are irrelevant to the overall function or performance. Its a worthwhile upgrade.
I've been following this for a few days trying to understand from the Clay's perspective his gripe with the lines, and honestly I fail to see any mechanical relevancy to the argument with the possible exception of the banjo fittings not having the centering pin. Mechanically this doesn't present a stability of connection or clearance issue. The locking pin type OEM banjo is more likely there for production efficiency to quickly zip the hose onto the caliper with out holding the fitting from rotating. The angle of the fitting hasn't been a problem, nor is the hose routing or clearance. I dont see where the hose can get hung up or hooked any more or less than an OEM hose. Personally, I haven't experienced any problem with the banjo on Slee's lines, haven't hooked the lines on anything.
REAR- hose resides on the back side of the axle-protected
FRONT- hose resides on back side of axle- protected
Hose Fitting Clips: the thick hose clips provide a snug fit and that is what you want. Reuse the OEM if you prefer something different- Again- why do you need an 18mm wrench on an immovable joint? The torque is applied to the brake line fitting not the hose end.
Crush Washers: Copper or Aluminum- OEM or Aftermarket- All crush washers at the banjo fittings are SINGLE USE- OEM or Aftermarket. Not sure I see the gripe. If you reuse, then you'll get leaks. The OEM banjo washers are aluminum, and certainly a clever design as they are joined together for easy install but they are no better at sealing the banjo to the caliper than simple copper washers. Again its a preferential problem, not a mechanical deficiency.
Why do we buy aftermarket stainless braided lines in the first place? I chose stainless braided lines to replace the OEM reinforced rubber hose because I wanted a lifetime solution as the hoses won't likely wear out in the useable lifetime of my vehicle and because there isn't hydraulic pressure loss from hose expansion during braking, so all that booster pressure is directed to the caliper piston for better braking feel & control.
Now to Slee's rebuttal; I think there's always room for consideration to product improvement if it's warranted. With more specific demand to your hose maker/supplier they could source with a little added effort. FWIW the banjo fittings Toyota uses are available somewhere in the aftermarket since there is a supplier providing a similar fitting on their stainless braided lines.
SafeBrake Australia- (made in Indonesia) available on eBay.
SafeBrake service has been hit or miss which is why I chose the Slee's product because I know when they put their name on a product- its been tested and proven- it's a quality part and I trust that they stand behind their products. Easy choice if it's available.... maybe you would save a sale or two if you put a note on your webpage with a "back in stock date" for the brake hoses.
I'm far from being a Slee fanboy but If anyone is on the fence about their stainless braided hoses, I would encourage you look beyond the complaints. IMO they are irrelevant to the overall function or performance. Its a worthwhile upgrade.
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2014
- Threads
- 94
- Messages
- 3,042
- Location
- Little Rock, Arkansas
- Website
- www.facebook.com
One of the 2 lines is longer than stock- I think the drop down line. Dont recall how much longer maybe 40-50mm
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2005
- Threads
- 80
- Messages
- 1,472
- Location
- Jacksonville Beach, Florida
- Website
- exitoffroad.com
Just for comparison since we saw how much the aftermarket stainless brake line kit costs (~$150 or so), anyone have a subtotal of what all new OEM lines are these days?
I know a lot of people go with aftermarket parts due to a lower cost (like an alternator for example), in addition to different design features or improvements over OE.
I know a lot of people go with aftermarket parts due to a lower cost (like an alternator for example), in addition to different design features or improvements over OE.
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2014
- Threads
- 94
- Messages
- 3,042
- Location
- Little Rock, Arkansas
- Website
- www.facebook.com
Just went through and added all 6 for my VSC-equipped '00 LC to my cart on Partsouq: $142.80 + $21.33(shipping) = $164.13. This does not include the banjo washers and clips
The Slee SS Brake Line Kit for VSC is $180 + $20.48(shipping but I also got their spindle grease tool so that might've made this amount more) = $200.48
Last edited:
I appreciate information from both sides. I don't expect lawyer proof opinions from forum members. I understand it is their own opinions. I would rather have personal opinions that are made up of just preferences than having folks be hesitant to give them. I did pick up from the discussion that slee's hoses are longer than OEM, and the ends are not exactly the same. I would not have otherwise know that. Thanks to all involved.
Gil
Gil
Hahahaha based off of this thread I went and ordered the last set from Cruiser Teq! Didn't want my 18mm to feel left out...
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Slee kit incoming tomorrow from Cruiser Outfitters and I cant wait! What kinda quantity of brake fluid do I need to have on hand to flush the whole system after installing the new lines?
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Minimum of 32 fl.oz. DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Much appreciated!
2+ years on Slee stainless hoses. When one of the guides on the fronts broke during install, another was sent out immediately, no questions. OEM or slee washers - doesn't matter. No leaks. Excellent product, install and forget about them. The whole point of extended stainless lines is you install them so you DON'T break them on the trail. Rubber hoses get holes in them, I've never gotten a hole in a stainless line on any vehicle, ever. They actually rub holes in stuff around them!
