Looks similar to mine, but I took mine right up to underside of the doors, and a little higher on the inside face of the rockers.
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Looks similar to mine, but I took mine right up to underside of the doors, and a little higher on the inside face of the rockers.
I was referring the fact that there not welded to the frame, Like you said theirs a lot of structure in the rockers, I left the most of the bottom of the rocker as I felt most of the rigidity was there, If you look at my pictures you can see bracing coming off the the body mount down to the bottom of the rocker and I wanted to retain all of that. The bottom of the sliders are about 1" above the bottom of the frame so going higher with them doesn't gain you much.
My reg was built as a dedicated wheeler/ rock crawler and has been on most of the hard core trails in the western states and the rock sliders have held up to some really hard hits over the last 4 years. I would say they have proven themselves
If I remember correctly @jcardona1 cut his rocker right to the bottom of the doors capped them off and then welded his rock sliders the frame in the higher position
Great minds think alike even when separated by a big pond, always nice to hear form the other side. Cheers
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I was referring the fact that there not welded to the frame, Like you said theirs a lot of structure in the rockers, I left the most of the bottom of the rocker as I felt most of the rigidity was there, If you look at my pictures you can see bracing coming off the the body mount down to the bottom of the rocker and I wanted to retain all of that. The bottom of the sliders are about 1" above the bottom of the frame so going higher with them doesn't gain you much.
My reg was built as a dedicated wheeler/ rock crawler and has been on most of the hard core trails in the western states and the rock sliders have held up to some really hard hits over the last 4 years. I would say they have proven themselves
If I remember correctly @jcardona1 cut his rocker right to the bottom of the doors capped them off and then welded his rock sliders the frame in the higher position
Great minds think alike even when separated my a big pond, always nice to hear form the other side. Cheers
Yeah, it's cool.
I searched when I did mine and didn't find any previous examples.
Looks like we were definitely thinking the same way. Really similar approach
- Thread starter
- #164
One thing to note. With 37s 4.10s and Marlin Low Range Tcase gears. It was not nearly the same as dual tcases.
I'm hopefully going to install the 5.29s soon so I can get a better comparison if it will crawl slow enough in technical rock areas. However with auto trans and torque. I was able to sort of makeup for some of it, but I still want it lower. I wish someone made dual tcases for the fj80. I know there's one way, but it requires sourcing a H151 trans and then running dual tcases. Not sure if I want to go down that road yet if I can avoid it.
I'm hoping 5.29s and the 39s will give me enough of what I want to compare to duals.
I'm hopefully going to install the 5.29s soon so I can get a better comparison if it will crawl slow enough in technical rock areas. However with auto trans and torque. I was able to sort of makeup for some of it, but I still want it lower. I wish someone made dual tcases for the fj80. I know there's one way, but it requires sourcing a H151 trans and then running dual tcases. Not sure if I want to go down that road yet if I can avoid it.
I'm hoping 5.29s and the 39s will give me enough of what I want to compare to duals.
I'm on 37s, 5.29s and low range tcase gears. Still leaves a lot to be desired and it's nothing like the mini truck/4Runner guys I wheel with. Unfortunately lack of gearing is a big downside in the 80 platform.
Supposedly Northwest Fab completed their black box doubler that works with the A343, but I've yet to see one in the wild. Black Box Underdrives - https://www.northwestfab.com/blackboxunderdrive
DoUbLEr!!!!
Someone needs to call advance adapter to prototype and build an adapter to install an atlas to our tranny’s and replace the 2.blah. I would actually pay $2400 for an atlas 5.0 and $400 for an adapter for the 442 or 343. Common let’s get a group together to have advance adapter build us an...
forum.ih8mud.com
The 10% high gearset reduction underdrive gears helps a wee bit also. Mine are SUMO.
with the 39s you want 5.29 the low range and the 10% under drive, and it's still not enough but doable
Sorry to keep mucking up your thread @spyduh but for all who are interested in the Rampt Customs steering box kit, Kris @ Rampt said they are going to change the outer panhard brace to fit the LHD trucks. Just let them know when you contact them since their site won't process international orders.
Thanks for making me aware of that kit!
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- #170
Yea I messaged Rampt and told them I had to mod his brackets. He didn't know about the LHD changes. I'm glad he's making updates to it for LHD. Even if he didn't make changes, it was a 5 min mod to get it to fit for us LHDs.
I spoke with him a bunch and he seems like a really good guy. I have more stuff I need to order from him in the near future
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- #171
Damn you guys are running 10% over drive gears too? I wasnt going that route but damn. Ughwith the 39s you want 5.29 the low range and the 10% under drive, and it's still not enough but doable
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- #172
My understanding is the Sumo and Marlin are sourced from the same factory. I'm going to try the 39s, 5.29s and lowrange first before I go next level and get High range gears.
deleted incorrect comment
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- Thread starter
- #173
Damn it. I started looking into the blackbox. Will call them later to see tcase options.
I have 2 extra 80 tcases and a extra mini truck top shift tcase. I might be able to source a cheap 60 tcase too. If they can make any of those a double case. I might be headed to buy and install one
I completely agree with everyone above. While 37's, 5.29's and 3.1:1's are good there is still many times when I wish it was lower. The blackbox is a decent option, but in the back of my mind I have the Atlas Just need to spend some time and do some math and see what input I need to broach to the 80's output.
I'm not sure, is that math correct? The black box would give you something like 250% reduction over stock. Tcase gears are only like 25% lower.
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- #176
yea you're correct. I was under the wrong assumption. the low range gears only net 25% 3.1:1. Doing under range gears wont change my crawl ratio and will only give me better highway rpms and power in High.
The blackbox is essentially like a dual (doubler). I'm considering this but the gas tank thing bugs me.
Redgrrr
I have a problem with 40s
Does the black box require ditching the stock gas tank? If so why not just go atlas with slight angle on the driveshaft?
Under drive gears will change the overall low range slightly, something like 3.3:1 overall.
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- #179
NFAB BB-C moves the factory tcase back 7 inches. I eyeballed it and the OEM tank is in the way. requires modification or sourcing a different tank. I'm thinking about Atlas at this point since it might be cheaper and easier. Does AA make an adapter for the 80 (A442)?
I know the next option for me would be to source a hard to find H151F 5spd and tcase. Buy the longer input shaft and source the hens teeth of 1fz MT ECU's. Then get a marlin minibox adapter to go with my mini Tcase I saved.
Anything Land Cruiser is always stupid expensive and complicated!
Yes on the gas tank. Atlas would be great, but they don't offer one with the correct input spline. Haven't looked into it, but also not sure if they still offer offset rear outputs on them.
