76lcforty said:
Thanks for the info...as 7' is my glass ceiling.
Spring Over Vs. Spring Under (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rusty79
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Thanks for the info...as 7' is my glass ceiling.
Rusty79 said:
Men-That-Like-It-Up-The-Ass sell lift kits, of course they don't want you going SOA that takes away profits
Sway bars are for pussies
Rusty79 said:
my frame is about 20-21"
Edit: 2" bs wheels and 1" spacers
heres another pic from the back in the exact same spot as my last pic...
Last edited:
I've got 36x14.50's. I don't know my frame measurement. I'd check it out but it's on jackstands right now.
This is my 40 in progress. Front is done other than shocks and brakes. Rear axle needs to be flip back over and new perches welded on plus brakes. No engine/tranny/tcase in it right now so that all needs to be mounted. Get everything plumbed back in....
Damn, I got alot of work left.
Damn, I got alot of work left.
aight...here's a question.
how much adjustment do you have to make if you build your rig from the frame up SOA and you don't have engine/tranny/tcase or body weight on there when you set up your perches and good stuff like that?
would y'all just stay away from that, and do it when you've got the entire drivetrain in so you can tell how it'll end up?
i'm hopefully abt to start on my SOA pretty soon and i'm lookin at tearin the cruiser all the way down. i'm startin on a new frame as well, so it would be nice if i didn't have to put the gigantor cast iron hunk in until i was almost done.
malphrus
(sorry for the hi-jack)
how much adjustment do you have to make if you build your rig from the frame up SOA and you don't have engine/tranny/tcase or body weight on there when you set up your perches and good stuff like that?
would y'all just stay away from that, and do it when you've got the entire drivetrain in so you can tell how it'll end up?
i'm hopefully abt to start on my SOA pretty soon and i'm lookin at tearin the cruiser all the way down. i'm startin on a new frame as well, so it would be nice if i didn't have to put the gigantor cast iron hunk in until i was almost done.
malphrus
(sorry for the hi-jack)
I wouldn't even weld the perches on while you're assembling. Bolt everything together, then when everything else is assembled you can set your angles and burn the perches on.
phlyfish said:
You have a lot of work left ... ?
The front was done w/ the motor/tranny/tcase in the rig. the rear will be finished when the drive train are back in the rig so I can point the pinion at the tcase and run a cv. I shouldn't have any issues when I put the motor back in.
pbgbottle
Forum Lifer
alot of work left ! what about me . i just did this today . i have a crap-load left to do !
Jake
Jake
I bet you're not scoring too many points blocking the back door and tying up the back porch with a long term project like that!
pbgbottle
Forum Lifer
Ya she's not very happy . hope to have it cleaned up and rolling out of there by wednesday . keep my fingers crossed HA! HA!
I run 4" of SUA, a 1" body lift and trimmmed rear fenders. I bought the truck this way and it is very capable (more so than it's driver).
That said, I'd prefer a well-done SOA. Problem is, it aint cheap and my rig fits my needs well as it sits.
That said, I'd prefer a well-done SOA. Problem is, it aint cheap and my rig fits my needs well as it sits.
Vitesse_6 said:Fixed it fer ya Kurt
You know me all to well
Panzer said:
I went with rancho 9000 rx's I put them on 8 or 9 when I'm on the road.
-Rico.
What meats do you plan on running? Build it to the tires you want. I currently run 36s with a SUA setup, but might be SOAing the rear soon. Gotta see what my front is gonna look like when I switch those springs. Also whats your budget? It is more expensive than some people think, especially to do it right. If you want to know how much lift it will give you, measure the thickness your spring packs and the diameter of your axle tube and add em together. That will give you a good ballpark figure.
offrd63
Ain't you done yet!
JasonH said:
Also keep in mind that your springs will drop a least another 1" the first time your out. Ask me how I know. Their go all your carefully planned caster angles.
offrd63 said:
even with old stock springs?
is that just b/c you've been reworking them and they haven't 'settled' yet even though they're not new....?
malphrus
Most people believe that the diffence in the ubolt mounting pulls a little arc out of the spring. No real scientific fact, it just tends to happen. The ubolt theory seems to make sence.
Doesn't look like you need another opinion, but oh well I'll give it anyway.
I bought the cruiser stock, drove it for about 9 months, then put on a 4" SUA lift. I hated the lift kit. It was SkyJacker springs, and they were super stiff. It was cheap though, and it fit the 35's I wanted, so I cannot complain too much. After about 2 years of that lift, I finally decided to spend the money on a SOA lift. I had a reputable company in SLC perform the work, and I could not be any happier. My 40 is a 1974, so I had drums all around. The company cut the front axle, eliminated the birfields, put an open knuckle 44 ends on it with Chevy discs, and set the caster angle exactly as needed. They did a reverse shackle, built a traction bar for the rear, and reversed the rear springs. It now sits on 36's, and if it were not for a company car, it would be my daily driver. I do not have any issues whatsoever due to the SOA as being a daily driver. I do not have a steering stabilizer on it, and I could do 85mph on the freeway without having to hold the wheel to stay straight. It handles beautifully. On the trail it flexes great, and the height gives me enough clearance for more than I care to do.
Bottom line. If SOA is done correct, there is no better way to lift your truck IMO. If you pay someone to do the work it is not cheap, but if you do it yourself you best know what you are doing.
I bought the cruiser stock, drove it for about 9 months, then put on a 4" SUA lift. I hated the lift kit. It was SkyJacker springs, and they were super stiff. It was cheap though, and it fit the 35's I wanted, so I cannot complain too much. After about 2 years of that lift, I finally decided to spend the money on a SOA lift. I had a reputable company in SLC perform the work, and I could not be any happier. My 40 is a 1974, so I had drums all around. The company cut the front axle, eliminated the birfields, put an open knuckle 44 ends on it with Chevy discs, and set the caster angle exactly as needed. They did a reverse shackle, built a traction bar for the rear, and reversed the rear springs. It now sits on 36's, and if it were not for a company car, it would be my daily driver. I do not have any issues whatsoever due to the SOA as being a daily driver. I do not have a steering stabilizer on it, and I could do 85mph on the freeway without having to hold the wheel to stay straight. It handles beautifully. On the trail it flexes great, and the height gives me enough clearance for more than I care to do.
Bottom line. If SOA is done correct, there is no better way to lift your truck IMO. If you pay someone to do the work it is not cheap, but if you do it yourself you best know what you are doing.
