Speedhut Gauges in your 60... wow! Best money spent! (6 Viewers)

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I ended up running my inline fused red wire wire straight to the battery to see if that changed anything, it did, so I changed where I had it tied into the keyed ignition and tied it into the same spot I have the stereo deck tied in. That got everything running as far as power and signal to the gauges.

I followed Hojak’s advice and just cut the wire next to the yellow/pink wire (mine is a weird greyish maroon, not white with a black stripe), temporarily tied in the speedhut wiring, popped the fuel sensor out of the tank through the access port in the cargo deck, and programmed it manually. That was actually really easy. Seems to be working like a charm. Cut all the 12feet or so of extra wire off to keep from having to stuff it behind the dash. Have about 1/3 of a tank apparently...

Now to figure out why it won’t actually start (replaced spark plugs and wires this morning), among other things:
-The AC blower fan won’t run,
-the horns don’t work (brand new PIAA’s will just barely squeal if they’ll do that)
-the front marker lights don’t work (blinkers and headlights do)

If it will just turn over, I would feel better about starting to put the dash and glove box back together. Sound like possibly a ground issue?

Found one of the round 90987 round relays that was hot to the touch the upper/right hand one:

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Got the backlighting working. I had the white wire to the inverter going to the white in the red, white and black Speedhut harness that powers the unit. Located the headlight wire and walaaa... it works. Carefully get the wire stuffed into the dash. Was very careful not to pull a wire out of kink sensor lines. Turned key on to check things were still good. Time to drive it home from my buddy Brian’s.
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My buddy Brian lives across the N. Fork of Eagle Creek so this was the down hill side before climbing up to my house 1,000’ in elevation above Eagle Fern Park.
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Scenery along the drive
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Temp at fan dual fan controller
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Temp at back of motor at water temp sensor
 
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those gauges look nice, I may swap over to those later on after I get through dealing with other things. I like the consolidated approach they appear easy to read and of course they are in the OME "pods".... for clean visual.
 
I know everybody was really worried. Got the truck running. Quad gauge works like a charm, fuel level seems slightly erratic but generally correct. Voltmeter, temp, and fuel pressure seem solid. Still haven’t figured out backlighting. But also haven’t checked it in the dark.

Still have electrical gremlins to track down on a few items. But it’s almost there.
 
The white off the inverter needs to get wired the wire coming to the stock instrument panel from the headlights. I can’t tell which wire I hooked it to in my picture sorry.
 
Got the backlighting working. I had the white wire to the inverter going to the white in the red, white and black Speedhut harness that powers the unit. Located the headlight wire and walaaa... it works. Carefully get the wire stuffed into the dash. Was very careful not to pull a wire out of kink sensor lines. Turned key on to check things were still good. Time to drive it home from my buddy Brian’s.
View attachment 1987534
My buddy Brian lives across the N. Fork of Eagle Creek so this was the down hill side before climbing up to my house 1,000’ in elevation above Eagle Fern Park.
View attachment 1987535
Scenery along the drive
View attachment 1987536
Temp at fan dual fan controller
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Temp at back of motor at water temp sensor

Those gauges look great! Nice job - can’t wait to get mine installed.

Cheers!
-Ed
 
Those gauges look great! Nice job - can’t wait to get mine installed.

Cheers!
-Ed
It’s really not that bad. Test it before re-installing the instrument panel to make sure it all works. Also make sure when you stuff it back in that your careful not to kink any sensor wire of pull a wire loose.
 
Turns out the backlighting does work...

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Still have to figure out why my horns don’t work, and still can’t get the AC blower fans to run, even though I have replaced both the heater and AC relay. But the gauges look legit and I plugged in my stereo deck and it’s sounding good, even without the 6x9’s installed yet. Might need to squeeze a 10” ultra shallow sub in the tailgate.
 
...Might need to squeeze a 10” ultra shallow sub in the tailgate.

I put one in the side panel (made a new side panel out of MDF). Works great!
 
Ran the GPS sensor wire inside the windshield molding and used double sided tape to apply in the upper corner.
Good write up. CAUTION on wiring under the windshield molding. I ran my dash cam wiring along the right hand side
never gave it a thought. So there I was, 300 miles in the middle of BC from no where when my windshield fell out. There was
some rough off roading, but it was a real challenge getting the window back in. I'm only posting this, every change can have repercussions. Something to think about. Might have to with not having lock strip, which I fixed the week I got home. But can't say for sure.

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I love these Speedhut Gauges. Best money I’ve spent.They are awesome. The speedometer is right on. I have a 17 mile drive to work and it’s right on the money.
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I’ve gotten 197.5 miles on this fuel tank so far. Just Advanced Injection Pump timing before the last fillup.
 
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So, how big is that tank? I'm, not believing that you can easily go over 1K miles before a fillup.
 
So, how big is that tank? I'm, not believing that you can easily go over 1K miles before a fillup.
It’s the stock 60 tank. I was doubting it myself and wanted to check. Don’t want to run my diesel motor dry. Every vehicle I’ve had has gauges that all of the sudden drop really fast. Getting home is shows 3/4 on the fuel gauge. I decided I need to investigate. I’ve worked on the 60 so much that I have not ran a full tank through it. I’ve filled with diesel cans and also fillips. Not until I’ve had the Speedhut could I get any solid gpm. Tonight I decided to check.
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Pulled the fuel float.
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Got a clean piece of wood and marked it with inch marks and put it into bottom of tank.
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Bottom to top gasket for float is 8”. My current fuel level is 5”, 3” down from the top.
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I’m not entirely sure how full the tank gets when you fill it at the pump but I’ve done 214.5 miles in 3” of fuel in the tank if it gets totally full. There’s still 5” of diesel to bottom of tank. Because it’s diesel I’m not going let it run too low, but this test shows the 4BT is really putting out the mpg’s. 4:10s on 37s. I know cruising down the highway it literally feels like it’s barely working the engine. 5th gear is runs like a dream. Highest I’ve driven is 74mph on I-84 Labor Day in the Columbia River Gorge.
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The fuel float is rusty and should be replaced. After these findings I’m convinced the fuel level is working properly. More input from other would be appreciated. With the 2F I would be needing to refuel tomorrow!
 
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Okay this is definitely in the future plans for my 62. Honestly though to program the fuel gauge I would drain the tank completely, put 4 gallons in from a jerry can and set the empty mark there, then fill up all the way for the full mark. That was once your gauge reads empty you'll still have enough of a reserve to get you to a nearby gas station. I almost always refill at a quarter tank anyway, but I know some of you like to live dangerously...
 
It’s the stock 60 tank. Every vehicle I’ve had has gauges that all of the sudden drop really fast. Getting home is shows 3/4 on the fuel gauge. I decided I need to investigate. I’ve worked on the 60 so much that I have not ran a full tank through it. I’ve filled with diesel cans and also fillips. Not until I’ve had the Speedhut could I get any solid gpm. Tonight I decided to check.
View attachment 2075959
Pulled the fuel float.
View attachment 2075958
Got a clean piece of wood and marked it with inch marks and put it into bottom of tank.
View attachment 2075961Bottom to top gasket for float is 8”. My current fuel level is 5”, 3” down from the top.
View attachment 2075962I’m not entirely sure how full the tank gets when you fill it at the pump but I’ve done 214.5 miles in 3” of fuel in the tank if it gets totally full. There’s still 5” of diesel to bottom of tank. Because it’s diesel I’m not going let it run too low, but this test shows the 4BT is really putting out the mpg’s. 4:10s on 37s. I know cruising down the highway it literally feels like it’s barely working the engine. 5th gear is runs like a dream. Highest I’ve driven is 74mph on I-84 Labor Day in the Columbia River Gorge.
View attachment 2075966
The fuel float is rusty and should be replaced. After these findings I’m convinced the fuel level is working properly. More input from other would be appreciated. With the 2F I would be needing to refuel tomorrow!


My 4BT w/ 4.56s, 37s and ranger splitter yielded 19 in town to 26mph on the interstate at 6200-8000 ft elevations in Wyoming.

I ran from Green River, WY to Tooele, UT; 426 mile trip and got 23.6mpg/ 18.07 gallons. SpeedHut gauge showed 1/4 tank remaining.

Make sure your fuel gauge is set to the proper ohm range. The OEM sending unit is 17-120ohms.

J
 
My 4BT w/ 4.56s, 37s and ranger splitter yielded 19 in town to 26mph on the interstate at 6200-8000 ft elevations in Wyoming.

I ran from Green River, WY to Tooele, UT; 426 mile trip and got 23.6mpg/ 18.07 gallons. SpeedHut gauge showed 1/4 tank remaining.

Make sure your fuel gauge is set to the proper ohm range. The OEM sending unit is 17-120ohms.

J
Ok here’s the facts
After my mileage and my fuel gauge , @Mace got me questioning my fuel level. I decided to investigate not wanting to run the diesel dry.
I have gone 214.5 miles on this tank so far. The tank is 8” deep to bottom of the float gasket. I marked a piece of clean wood and found my diesel fuel level at 5” deep. At the fuel pump I’m not sure how full the tank gets when it clicks off but I don’t think is completely 100% 8” of fuel deep in the tank.
 

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