Some Pics From Tonight

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OH BOY! Picked up my ToyBox today, i have been waiting for almost two years to get me one.
I am contemplating getting the Marks low range Tcase gear set as well as i think i still need deeper hi range gearing BUT I AM STOKED.
325 crawlbox.webp
 
YOU'LL LOVE STUPID LOW .... IT ROCKS :lol:
 
Questions

baxter650 said:
A friend came over so i put him to task striping the rear diff.
Once everything was pulled off i had him hack off the ends of the housing holding the spindles.
Going to take them into work and have one of the guys lathe off the remaining housing so they will press into my narrowed 60 housing.
Going to use the center section of the 80 housing to make a third member holder for when i set up gears.
Trying to set them up on a bench is as bad as using a vise, well no more.
Click to expand...

Hei,

i like to ask you some questions to get a start without creating more problems.

I am in the same boot like you, axlewise:).
Got myself 80 axles, the 16" version-big brakes. Need them to get my rig streetlegal.
Reason is my "splitcase", it has offset 18cm to the centerline of the car. The 80axles dont have that, the engine is not "V", and sit not "center". This is my first reason to cut them.
The second reason is that they are 63", i used first 60 axles i my build. With my tire-wheel combo, 9x17 BS 4,5" and 35(or 37or40)x12,5x17 i can cover the wheels with "Bushwackers"(yes i know-white trash) well "streetlegal". Probably i coud do a sheetmetaljob and extend them "nicer". But i am not that good.

Thatswhy i need to cut the axles.

Can you give me an advise for the best way without destroing the housing( i need to reuse the link and springbrackets-streetlegalthing:hhmm:).
How deep sit the spindels inside the housing.
Why are you not going to use original toyota 60 fullfloater axle shafts rear?Longfield plus his driveflanges-is that better? Or just a moneything?
What is wrong with the ones we can get from Poly( they buy them from.........i just dont remember)?
You store also the "balls" of the 80 front-i remember:) How deep sit they in the housing?

I got all the suspension links and all the brackets( we destroyed a 80 frame) and i will get them on my frame. Simply wanna use some of your experiences. If you like check my build.
My front idea: 60 housing(because i didn got a extra 80 Semi housing yet) plus 80 outers and 16" disk and big calipers on 80 radiusarms with Slee steering, i got axles from the UK.
My rear idea: 80FF housing, shortened, 80 links, custome made shafts or original 60 shafts, i got the masurement-just need to get confirm on them.

Thanks
Matt

Hope your conditions will be better soon.
 
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Looking great mate! Good to see someone taking there time to do a good job on a cut and shut, there are too many running around that are nothing short of glued together.
I'm very envious of you departure now!

Try the hilux tank or a 80 series small tank (i think the main is the smaller???)
 
Don't do what i did, if i had to do it again i would just shorten the long side of the 80 series axle to make it match the 60 series width and run a CV on the rear drive shaft.
You might get lucky and be able to run a axle shaft from a FF 60 series axle.
The rear axle in my 60 was a semi float unit so i had no shafts to use,and i am a little wider than stock.
as well.
I have not removed the balls from the front housing yet, i am awaiting someone to make a hi steer kit with better knuckles.
Have your housing done buy someone with the proper equiptment to make sure it's straight.
 
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baxter650 said:
I have not removed the balls from the front housing yet, i am awaiting someone to make a hi steer kit with better knuckles.
Click to expand...

Meaning something other than the 6 shooters?
 
Cutting

Hi Baxter,

thanks for replying.

A verry god reason(to me) to make the axles fit is to eliminate vibrations. We can (by law:)) and do drive here in europe a little bit faster than you guys. Ok, not in Norway. There is verry low (to me) speedlimit. And i am going to have a good engine:).
What i wanna say is, a good, straight lineup between trans and axles keeps any vibration down. I have to take out 12,5 cm at the passenger site, and have to make the driver site ca 1cm longer. :)

If i run in trouble, i still can use "Powertrain", we have a good line and they are neighbor beside my working place.

I know your words to the "new" 80 knuckle-steering setup. I also understand your waiting for it, to much good reasons.
Since my cars are allways(have/has to be) streetlegal, and use to go between 25 and 30000 km per year,i do not think about 6 stud mini/LC 60/70 knuckles of any kind at all.

Matt
 
Just make dam sure you can get an axle long enough to fit the long side once the housing has been shortened.
I am not at all concerned about the strength of the 60 series knuckles, the main reason i want to run the 80 series front knuckles is for the larger brakes.
When i have more time i may just see if it is possible to make the 80 series brakes fit on the 60 series knuckles.
The larger birfs would be a sweet bonus though.
 
80

baxter650 said:
Just make dam sure you can get an axle long enough to fit the long side once the housing has been shortened.
I am not at all concerned about the strength of the 60 series knuckles, the main reason i want to run the 80 series front knuckles is for the larger brakes.
When i have more time i may just see if it is possible to make the 80 series brakes fit on the 60 series knuckles.
The larger birfs would be a sweet bonus though.
Click to expand...


The brakes is my mainreason too, my appoval engineer accept my engine only in connection with this break(front and rear and mainbreakcylinder) because she is close to the 100 Petrol( which has here 238 HP).

But he didnt accept some kind of adapter to get it fit.

Matt
 
Haven't added to this thread in a while because i haven't done much with the 60 other than collect more parts and think about s*** i want to try.
I am certain it will not be seeing the hiway so higher RPM power is not a priority, so i am going to do some experimenting.
I am going to try a supercharger as my primary power booster, i may add the turbo on later, or sooner if the plumbing looks easy .
The blower should give plenty of boost right off idle where i want it.
I know they are not as efficient and i will be giving up some power overall, but i will be making more power that stock, and it will be more were i want it, DOWN LOW.
To that end i picked up a used Eaton M90 Supercharger for $102 bucks, it feels tight and should suite my needs.
Now all i have to do is mount it.
Now tell me why i should not try it.
331.webp
 
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