Simple Pitman Arm Question

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Feb 15, 2022
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Atlanta, GA
Looks like my toyota box needs a full rebuild and will be sending to the wizards at West Texas O/R. I understand I can do a removal in two basic ways.....pull the pitman arm off the sector shaft or disconnect the cotter pin from the lower rod. And then remove the rag joint.

Question is - does it matter when you put back on the pitman arm on the sector shaft spline with the splines in same spot before removal? I assume no.

Do I need to mark any places on the lower rod? Or on rag joint - when I reassemble?

Right now I am leaning to letting West Texas O/R deal with removing the Pitman arm.

Pic below for my original weepy 'refreshed' steering box.

Thanks for any input.

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....and while I have your attention....is this the cotter pin that you can remove instead of the Pitman arm? Not seeing how removing that pin will allow the rod below will unlatch or slide off?

IMG_5050 copy.jpg
 
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Remove the cotter pin, use a XXL Screwdriver or flat bar to unscrew the piece underneath, and then remove it from the pitman arm...

I'm too slow
 
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Perfect - thanks everyone. Clearly I need to spend more time looking at my FSM for these kind of things. Appreciate it.
 
Joined
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Remove the cotter pin, use a XXL Screwdriver or flat bar to unscrew the piece underneath, and then remove it from the pitman arm...

I'm too slow
@bikersmurf do you have any recommendation on which way to go for - easiest route? Will have fender off - but curious to your perspective. Pitman arm was off during my FJ's rebuild back in April, so it has that going for it. But this other option looks like remove that threaded "bung" and slide arm down to come out of the slot. Thoughts?
 
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Never had any luck getting the pitman arm off on a 40. I'd go the easier route and separate it where the cotter pin is.

That said, shipping it without the pitman arm might save a couple bucks... but that may depend on the shipping rate cut-offs.
 

Blue77FJ40

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Yes, I used a pitman arm puller, assisted by Kroil and a sledge hammer in each hand smacking both simultaneously against the pitman arm and persuaded it to come off.

And by all means, mark the pitman arm's location on arm and shaft. I used a small chisel.
 

Shark56

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This is what I have used on two different arms.
On both the boxes and arms I have done there are witness marks,(lines) to aid in getting
Screenshot_20220608-153523_Chrome.jpg
everything lined up.
I used a 1/2 drive impact with the puller. One was a pain to get off. The other came right off.
Sometimes you can do a loaner tool from AutoZone or someone simular. Just make sure it is the big version for trucks not the smaller passenger car size.
 
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Just a small update…everything went well with the conical type puller and didn’t even produce a loud ‘bang.’ Just gentle tapping on each side of arm, a few twists of the puller and repeat. Made hash marks (in red) just so I can get it aligned correctly when I reinstall…not sure if this will help or not.

Unfortunately this box was supposed to be refurbished by PO and it was clearly not. So now it’s to get it cleaned up and shipped out to West Texas Off-road for a complete rebuild.

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Question for the followers…any advice on how to clean the splines - even on the rag joint? Was going to lightly oil them to clean away some of the rust in the grooves and wipe away.
 

77mustard40

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Just a thought, my mini truck box went to WT and started leaking within two years. You may want to call RedHead, they get rave reviews in the 80 section.

 
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I would keep in mind a few year back someone sent their 40 series power steering box to Texas for a rebuild and got a mini truck power steering back. Which would indicate you don't necessarily get your original box back.
 

fjwagon

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I would like to think they dropped the ball on that one. A mini truck would not work however if they sent a mini truck 4x4 with a solid axle instead, the internals are identical to a fj40 but would require a different casing due to the geometry difference between the two. And if one is not familiar it's pretty easy to send a 4x4 mini truck one by mistake. But I can see a vendor sending an entirely different instead to maximize there profit margin.
 
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Ive heard nothing but amazing feedback from West Texas this on this forum and other forums. I’m still going to go with them.
 
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Question on your rag joint ...
In the pictures, it appears to have some age on the joint. (what might early start of break down of the leather/rubber doughnuts). Have you considered replacing it while you are in there? [i.e., re-start with a freshly rebuilt steering box and any other convenient hardware with wear such as rag joint]

Thanks
 

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