Hello, I am new to the forum so for give me if I am doing everything correctly. But i own a 1971 FJ40 that I bought for $500 two years ago (as you can imagine it looks rough. The the vehicle had been sitting since the early 80s and I am currently in the process of "restoring" it. The body has been removed and the original F-Engine is in the Shop. I was told that the engine just needs to be cleaned, honed and have the crank polished (no major damage). I know the later gen F-Engines are "better (can be debated)", and I found a 1988 3F engine that threw a rod for $80. I said all of that to say, should I abandon my F engine rebuild and rebuild the 3F? Thanks to anyone that can provide insight on this.
Should I Abandon My F-Engine Rebuild (1 Viewer)
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"Threw a rod" sometimes means right threw the side of the block. How much damage?
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- #3
The seller does not know, I have seen pictures and the rod did not leave the engine. It is basically earthing from the valve cover to the oil pan (intake and exhaust manifold is included) and you get to figure out the damage when you crack it open.
Coolerman
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Welcome to MUD!
What you do with the motor is more about what you plan to do with the truck. Daily driver? All out trail rig? Weekend fire road runner?
Personally I would finish the F engine so you can drive it. Learn what you want to do with the truck then you will have a much better idea about what engine you want to end up with. If the F is in that good of shape, you could easily sell it to a person who is doing a restoration and put the money towards another engine.
What you do with the motor is more about what you plan to do with the truck. Daily driver? All out trail rig? Weekend fire road runner?
Personally I would finish the F engine so you can drive it. Learn what you want to do with the truck then you will have a much better idea about what engine you want to end up with. If the F is in that good of shape, you could easily sell it to a person who is doing a restoration and put the money towards another engine.
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- #5
The original F-engine is in pretty good shape according to the machine shop. The engine is on the original bore and apparently does not "need" to be bored over but the shop recommended since it is already apart. And i mainly just want the FJ for something that my wife and I can ride around in and enjoy it on weekends.
Solid advice from Coolerman on running the F and getting to know your 40.
I'm still leaning towards finding a nice 2F to replace the F. Which you can sell to someone who wants one for sake of originality.
GA Architect
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If you plan to update/upgrade your engine, be sure to research the differences between the F and 2F engines.
Note: I drove my rig's tired '77 2F while I had a newer '86 2F rebuilt for my daily driver. It was not a 100% plug and play for my application, but did the research and had the necessary items to accommodate the newer 2F's installation.
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Its all rhetorical until the machine shop confirms that they have found you some F pistons and rings. Don't let them spend your $on a bore without confirmation on that.
Best
Mark
jvincig01
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Abandon your original F for a 3F? Tough call but this is what the purist in me is thinking....
GA Architect
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I expect that putting the F motor back in will be the easiest & least expensive option.
The 3F sounds like it could turn into a money pit, especially if you are not doing the work yourself.
From the description above, it sounds like the F motor needs almost nothing, not really a re-build.
By honing I assume you don't mean boring the cylinders over, just breaking the glaze and cleaning them up to accept a new set of rings.
I like the plan of running the F engine.
Later if you still want a 2F, you can get some of your money back by selling yours.
Suggest keeping your receipts or take pictures of the motor apart to prove it was refurbished.
For the F engine I'd limit the work to cleaning everything, honing the cylinders and putting in new rings, $60 + labor.
Grind or lap the valve seats if needed.
Check clearances in the oil pump and replace if it's beyond the wear limit, about $80.
replace all of the seals and put it back together.
The 3F sounds like it could turn into a money pit, especially if you are not doing the work yourself.
From the description above, it sounds like the F motor needs almost nothing, not really a re-build.
By honing I assume you don't mean boring the cylinders over, just breaking the glaze and cleaning them up to accept a new set of rings.
I like the plan of running the F engine.
Later if you still want a 2F, you can get some of your money back by selling yours.
Suggest keeping your receipts or take pictures of the motor apart to prove it was refurbished.
For the F engine I'd limit the work to cleaning everything, honing the cylinders and putting in new rings, $60 + labor.
Grind or lap the valve seats if needed.
Check clearances in the oil pump and replace if it's beyond the wear limit, about $80.
replace all of the seals and put it back together.
- Thread starter
- #16
So here is the update! The machine shop literally took this long to call me back. I need 2 pistons are fried "he said might as well go 20 over at this point" new cam, new liffters, all new intake and exhaust valves and exhaust seats. 1f engine main bearings and oil pumps are so expensive should I abandon keeping the original motor? I know I can buy Chevy 292 with the 4 speed "running go to go"or $200 down the road. Would that be a better option? Or should I go down this expensive path?
I am in the same boat as you with my F.5. I sent my cam and lifters to Delta Cams in Washington state. Machine shop found bearings and gaskets at Northern Auto Parts. Pistons and rings are a bit more problematic. First one came out of Oakland CA. That supplier had said there was enough of a demand for F engine pistons they were planning on restarting production soon. Now where the last set of pistons are coming from was an old time supply or parts house. Was told they would cost around $250-300.
Mine was set up for SBC and I changed back to Toyota. Now if you need to buy adapters, motor mounts etc and have to pay someone to install everything you will be surprised at how close the cost would be to staying original.
Mine was set up for SBC and I changed back to Toyota. Now if you need to buy adapters, motor mounts etc and have to pay someone to install everything you will be surprised at how close the cost would be to staying original.
Roll the f man. It will be ready the soonest and will get you on the road. The unfinished project is a nail in the coffin. Get it going, drive it, love it, work as you go. There are a handful of people that have seen the full restoration through and they are tough as he'll for it. Most give up and sell. If you get it running/driving you won't sell. Play safe odds and HAVE FUN!
Just things I am thinking off the top of my head. Probably are more things that need to be addressed.
Need adapter for transmission to transfer case. Driveshafts lengths probably are different. Clutch issues, I think the GM used linkage while original used a slave cylinder. Shifter and t/c holes are different. T/C shift linkage is different.
Need adapter for transmission to transfer case. Driveshafts lengths probably are different. Clutch issues, I think the GM used linkage while original used a slave cylinder. Shifter and t/c holes are different. T/C shift linkage is different.
