Seat Heater Switches

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Good luck, Andy

Let me know if you run into any snags - happy to help.
 
Wish you were closer to me, I have the kit, but the PO did the leather already. Im to busy to dig into this and I don't have a garage or room. I'm going to find a trim shop and give them this link! LOL Thanks for the write up

Kevin
 
Romer/mods, can you link this PDF file of the schematic to the "seat heater" FAQ section please?

Chris, very nice, thank you for sharing this with all of us!

Ross
 
Updated the EWD - I found some more handwritten notes on the wire colors, so updated the file here

10/19/2015 - updating the EWD again to add information about the diode
 

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"Quote" Following more of Steve's advice, I wired the yellow wire from the heated seat element control box to the 12V LO signal; the black wire from the control box to 12V HI signal; and the red wire goes from the control box to the ground on the power seat harness. I used some OEM wire splices I had kicking around to get the HI and LO signals from the seat connector to the heater element control box, and cut/spliced the ground wire into the ground for the power seats. This way you can still disconnect the plug and remove the seats without redoing any wiring. "END Quote"



Ok, This post makes no sense to me..... He ran the red wire on the aftermarket harness to the ground? That is supposed to be your power wire! Then he ran the Black wire from the aftermarket harness to the High Signal wire, that is supposed to be the ground! Is his heater even working or am I taking advice that is useless?

I am using the factory switches and factory wiring under the seat, I have located the hi and low heat wires and have wired them accordingly. My question is that I am down to the last wire on the aftermarket harness and this is the "RED" power wire, there is a constant 12v power wire in the stock wiring under the seat if I wire my "RED" power wire to this will there be a constant drain on the battery or will it only pull based on the factory switch?
 
On my front seat heaters for power I used the constant on power that feeds the electric seat motors. I've never had an issue with the battery draining. Should be fine.
 
I need to make my pigtail and I think I already figured out the pinout. See attachment


EDIT: got the part numbers from American Toyota. This will be for the connector to the vehicle wiring.

Male Housing for Left Side: 90980-10798
Pins : 82998-12240 (you'll need at least 6 of these)

Male Housing for the Right Side: 90980-10796
Pins : 82998-12330 (you'll need 6 of these)

Does anybody know the part numbers for the connector and sockets that attach to the back of the (Lexus or JDM) switch? I need to make my own harness and the part numbers above are for the connectors that mate to the factory wiring harness.
switch back.webp
 
I don't know the part numbers, but a lot of times you can find a compatible connector at the junkyard. Lots of Toyota and Lexus vehicles use the same connectors, so you don't need to find a Cruiser. Take your switches to the yard and try plugging them into various connectors in dashes. At my local pick n pull, I usually find a lot of dashes with the radios, switches,etc removed but all the wiring harnesses with connectors still intact

Good luck
 
Does anybody know the part numbers for the connector and sockets that attach to the back of the (Lexus or JDM) switch? I need to make my own harness and the part numbers above are for the connectors that mate to the factory wiring harness.

Easiest and usually cheapest way to get whatever connector you need is to just go to a pick-a-part junkyard. The connectors are ubiquitous in Toyotas and you can usually find what you're looking for in just about any older Toyota on the lot.
 
I don't know the exact connector, but other switches, like the CDL switch, use Yazaki 2.3II connectors. I was able to find them at this site:

http://www.newunitedracetech.com/sh...0-position-female-housing-natural-p-7423.html

If you go that route remember to buy the terminals as well.

This looks like a great web site for electrical geeks like me! They even list Toyota part numbers and the year, model and application for the various housings. And you can buy terminals without pigtails crimped on. Very nice. Thanks for the link. :cheers:
 
Thanks so much for continuing this thread and adding the new information.
I just received Shane's new leather and heaters and getting ready to tear into this project.

Great information here and I hope I know have what I need to do this.
Is there anyone else doing this currently at the moment? Perhaps we should stay in touch to help each other around the tough spots. Not sure but this project has got me a little concerned (type A personality kicking in I guess).
 
2 questions for you guys:

- cutting hog rings: any recommendations for the tool to use for this? I see online that there's tools available but I don't have to time to order and ship that. Just use heavy diag cutters?

- angle hog ring pliers? I guess I need to chase down a pair?

thanks
 
2 questions for you guys:

- cutting hog rings: any recommendations for the tool to use for this? I see online that there's tools available but I don't have to time to order and ship that. Just use heavy diag cutters?

Thats what I used, worked fine.
- angle hog ring pliers? I guess I need to chase down a pair?

If you have a Princess Auto near you, they sell them.
 
doug_w said:
Thats what I used, worked fine.

If you have a Princess Auto near you, they sell them.

Thanks Doug. On my way to Princess Auto in the morning.
What could be better, Hockey and recovering the seats in my baby.
 
back to sourcing the OEM switches. Are these something that CDAN would have?
 
Not sure if Dan can get the OEM switches, might be a JDM part only. I got mine from mot, you could also try Akella.
 
2 questions for you guys:

- cutting hog rings: any recommendations for the tool to use for this? I see online that there's tools available but I don't have to time to order and ship that. Just use heavy diag cutters?

- angle hog ring pliers? I guess I need to chase down a pair?

thanks

You shouldn't need a special tool to cut the hog rings. I used needle nose vice grip and twisted them until they opened. Then you can remove the leather from the ring.

Have you looked at Romers install thread?
 

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