Build Salted Pork fj55 family wagon build

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Roastchestnuts said:
Hey @Skreddy think this is the needle bearing that I need for the Tcase? or are they loose needle bearings. I dont want to dive in that project without having the part... Transfer Case Front Output Needle Bearing - Fits 03/1969-01/1990 4x/5x/6x/7x Series Applications (TCB17010) - https://cruiserteq.com/transfer-case-front-output-needle-bearing-fits-03-1969-01-1990-4x-5x-6x-7x-series-applications-tcb17010/ I am willing to try this before I pull the case haha.
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This one.

cruiserteq.com

Transfer Case Front Output Needle Bearing - Fits 03/1969-01/1990 4x/5x/6x/7x Series Applications (TCB17010)

Transfer Case Front Output Needle Bearing - Fits 03/1969-01/1990 4x/5x/6x/7x Series Applications (TCB17010)
cruiserteq.com cruiserteq.com
 
Skreddy said:
This one.

cruiserteq.com

Transfer Case Front Output Needle Bearing - Fits 03/1969-01/1990 4x/5x/6x/7x Series Applications (TCB17010)

Transfer Case Front Output Needle Bearing - Fits 03/1969-01/1990 4x/5x/6x/7x Series Applications (TCB17010)
cruiserteq.com cruiserteq.com
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Perfection. Thats what I thought. It would make sense that it would be this making noise because I did not find metal or anything in the tcase. crossing my fingers that it will be an easy fix. if not like I said I have a spare I could rebuild and put in but its not really what I want to be doing haha.
 
Skreddy said:
May be a good idea to buy the whole kit if you can? Just in case you end up rebuilding the other one.
This one is for up to 73.
cruiserteq.com

Transfer Case Rebuild Kit - Fits 3 Speed 1963-9/1973 4x/5x Series

Transmission Rebuild Kits for Toyota Land Cruiser Applications
cruiserteq.com cruiserteq.com
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I have a 4speed tcase from a 1976 in mine. and my spare is a 4 speed case. but I think I may swap a 3speed case in if I find a good deal on one eventually. You are probably right but money is tight with a baby coming. If I need to I will buy a rebuild though. I am a couple weeks out with my rocker stuff taking priority. I think I have a tcase gasket kit somwhere too.
 
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Roastchestnuts said:
I have a 4speed tcase from a 1976 in mine. and my spare is a 4 speed case. but I think I may swap a 3speed case in if I find a good deal on one eventually. You are probably right but money is tight with a baby coming. If I need to I will buy a rebuild though. I am a couple weeks out with my rocker stuff taking priority. I think I have a tcase gasket kit somwhere too.
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I get exactly where you’re coming from. Kids are speeeeeeeensive! Wait until you have two and then the wife is like “you know what’ll make these kids less of a headache? A dog or 2!”


That front bearing is a likely culprit. Obviously you won’t know until it’s apart. If you grab the output yoke for front driveline, can you wiggle it around?
 
Roastchestnuts said:
I have alot of work to do with a flappy sanding disc... But its all welded in. Not my best work on the welds but It will do. Its very strong! this is an upgrade to factory rockers for sure! I did weld the cap on the front of the rocker but I forgot to take a picture.

I did measure out where the centar pillar should be. its on the money!
View attachment 4040257

Below is where I stopped. I filled the cavitys before I welded it up with rust reform planning on getting some fluid film or cavity wax in there too. Still some work to do on some rusty areas though. Like the corner of the floor near the rear seat. and the wheel well. the bottom of the front pillar where the rocker attaches was also pretty roached and required extensive patching too.
View attachment 4040258View attachment 4040256

These welds were the worst. I was still trying to get my settings dialed in. Turns out I had some paint on my ground.. glad I figured it out. also picked the bondo off... got some work there too....
View attachment 4040261


its coming along! next I have the floor pans and floor supports and the body mount. waiting on metal to come in though.
View attachment 4040262
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Set ya heat for the thicker materisl and roll up into the thinner material. Ya have to find the happy medium to prevent burn through 😳🧐🤔😏😉
 
Roastchestnuts said:
The layering of body panels seems to be a toyota thing that brings lots of rust. @theglobb had alot of issues with that on his troopy.
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I want to go back in time and strangle the Japanese engineer who designed all these little layers in the body that are just PERFECT for trapping moisture and rust 😂 Nightmare material. I'll be soaking every square inch in cavity wax, then once the wax is dried, I'll soak everything all over again in fluid film.

IMG_2061.webp
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So stoked to see all the work you're putting into our old pig! Finally getting what it truly deserves
 
Skreddy said:
I get exactly where you’re coming from. Kids are speeeeeeeensive! Wait until you have two and then the wife is like “you know what’ll make these kids less of a headache? A dog or 2!”


That front bearing is a likely culprit. Obviously you won’t know until it’s apart. If you grab the output yoke for front driveline, can you wiggle it around?
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Yeah just the dang doctors appointments are like 400$ every time and thats with insurance although I think somthing is screwy there. 1 a month. hahhhaa the dog thing... Rachael keeps wanting to get another cat. I keep telling her the cats cant outnumber the people!

WIth the front bearing I am going to look at it on the transfercase I have outside the truck to get a good idea on how to pull it apart. I keep reading people use a di grinder to get it out. or a slide hammer. I am more worried about getting one back in to be honest (freezer trick maybe). I am really good at the Mayhem calamity on getting things apart haha.
bobm said:
Set ya heat for the thicker materisl and roll up into the thinner material. Ya have to find the happy medium to prevent burn through 😳🧐🤔😏😉
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For sure. I had it set to what the inside panel of the welder says but I think it needs a little more juice next time. I was only getting a little burn through in the beginning on the thinner oem stuff in the beginning when I was welding the front pillar. By the time I got to the back one I had it dialed in better.
theglobb said:
I want to go back in time and strangle the Japanese engineer who designed all these little layers in the body that are just PERFECT for trapping moisture and rust 😂 Nightmare material. I'll be soaking every square inch in cavity wax, then once the wax is dried, I'll soak everything all over again in fluid film.

View attachment 4040857View attachment 4040856View attachment 4040855


So stoked to see all the work you're putting into our old pig! Finally getting what it truly deserves
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Dude! I am glad to see your project back up going! and yeah sometimes I get a little board with something when there is nothing to fix and I loose my drive. funny enough this project I was feeling that way a little until I started zipping off the rockers haha. It helps that I have my samurai project done now other than a few more cosmetic things. I am looking at maybe getting some new seat material, I am very excited to replace those crunchy seat vinyl covers. I also need to replace the windshield and gasket but I know that it is a pricy endeavor for the fj55. I think the front windshield might be a summer project to be honest. I need to start buying weatherstripping.
 
I dont have a lot I can do today after work. I think its going to be raining. I finally got my C channel, my pneumatic flange tool, and some extra 20 gage 16x16 inch sheet I bought for the fender rust and other patches I may need. I really have the fire to crank this out though. I love projects like this!
 
Pighead said:
You'll get over that.
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ehh I dont think so. I honestly really enjoy it. I was getting bored with it when I was not fixing something on it haha. I like the tinkering and welding, getting engines running and the satisfaction when its fixed. Its a hobby and Its one of my favorite things in the world. I should have gone into the automotive world as a profession. I like a project. I really want to do another suzuki samurai to fix up too. would love a Lj20 actually (already thinking about that.) I might get over it when I am kinda at the end of the things I want to fix I guess. Now If I only had that mindset about my 126 year old house....
 
Update: we had our baby shower on saturday so I didnt get alot done on the 55. Baby is due on January 22nd so the days are counting down. On SUnday I did get the floor pan, body mount all mocked up and ready to weld in. I ground down some of the welds as well. sprayed everything down with weId through primer too. have it set up now where I just need to weld in the floor pans. I am using a flange tool to over lap the panels for the pans. I did this to not do butt welds for stronger welds in the floor and to avoid burn through. I will use seam sealer when I am done too. I cut out the rust in the front fender too and will start repairing that too. Planning on welding the one roof rust hole soon too and a couple of small spots round the vehicle that will get worse.

I probibly wont get it to it today because its going to be raining I think.

what really sucks is the passenger side still needs all the same work. however It should go quicker because now I know what to do.
 
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Alright today is the last day before we go on the christmas break! My plan is to weld the floor pan in this saturday and get the rocker primed. Luckily I have about a half gallon left over from the samurai Project. I need to buy paint to match though. I think the company I bought the samurai paint from can color match the fuel door.
 
Well.. I think it turned out pretty good! I worked at this Non stop from 10am till 4:45pm on Saturday and I was beat. Plan is to seam seal the under side. I patched a few rust holes that were under the seat mount. The rear corner near the rear seats was the most difficult Because it was a tight space to weld. I didn't get a picture of that but I will later. The front body mount was not too bad once I got everything lined up. I used self tappers to hold the panel down flat while I welded it in. then pulled them out and filled the hole like a plug weld. (self tappers are not my favorite but at least they are not still there) I need to clean everything up still and then I will prime and paint it all. The floor will be all painted with rustoleum almond white. and I am going to have some color matching paint for the rocker. The only thing left on the drivers side is the fender hole that I cut out. and I need to finish welding back the rear support. I ran out of Gas and had to stop. Luckly


IMG_5865.webp
IMG_5874.webp


The wheel well was tricky. I used a ball pin hammer to shape it as I went and self tapers. (they came out after the picture) Ill paint this area with my high build DTM primer then use bed liner or something.
IMG_5873.webp


Lastly an early gift from my wife! is this 1970s coleman cooler not the coolest! It will look good in the back of the salted pork wagon when I am done!
F405B0FD-8C54-49D3-A598-D61AECCA5F5F.webp


The worst part about all of this is I will need to do the same on the passenger side...
 
Roastchestnuts said:
Well.. I think it turned out pretty good! I worked at this Non stop from 10am till 4:45pm on Saturday and I was beat. Plan is to seam seal the under side. I patched a few rust holes that were under the seat mount. The rear corner near the rear seats was the most difficult Because it was a tight space to weld. I didn't get a picture of that but I will later. The front body mount was not too bad once I got everything lined up. I used self tappers to hold the panel down flat while I welded it in. then pulled them out and filled the hole like a plug weld. (self tappers are not my favorite but at least they are not still there) I need to clean everything up still and then I will prime and paint it all. The floor will be all painted with rustoleum almond white. and I am going to have some color matching paint for the rocker. The only thing left on the drivers side is the fender hole that I cut out. and I need to finish welding back the rear support. I ran out of Gas and had to stop. Luckly


View attachment 4052966View attachment 4052967

The wheel well was tricky. I used a ball pin hammer to shape it as I went and self tapers. (they came out after the picture) Ill paint this area with my high build DTM primer then use bed liner or something.
View attachment 4052969

Lastly an early gift from my wife! is this 1970s coleman cooler not the coolest! It will look good in the back of the salted pork wagon when I am done!
View attachment 4052970

The worst part about all of this is I will need to do the same on the passenger side...
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Nice work! That cooler is sweet. Can’t wait to see it in the 55 and with your talent of awesome pictures have no doubt it will be a show piece.
 
Roastchestnuts said:
Well.. I think it turned out pretty good! I worked at this Non stop from 10am till 4:45pm on Saturday and I was beat. Plan is to seam seal the under side. I patched a few rust holes that were under the seat mount. The rear corner near the rear seats was the most difficult Because it was a tight space to weld. I didn't get a picture of that but I will later. The front body mount was not too bad once I got everything lined up. I used self tappers to hold the panel down flat while I welded it in. then pulled them out and filled the hole like a plug weld. (self tappers are not my favorite but at least they are not still there) I need to clean everything up still and then I will prime and paint it all. The floor will be all painted with rustoleum almond white. and I am going to have some color matching paint for the rocker. The only thing left on the drivers side is the fender hole that I cut out. and I need to finish welding back the rear support. I ran out of Gas and had to stop. Luckly


View attachment 4052966View attachment 4052967

The wheel well was tricky. I used a ball pin hammer to shape it as I went and self tapers. (they came out after the picture) Ill paint this area with my high build DTM primer then use bed liner or something.


The worst part about all of this is I will need to do the same on the passenger side...
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Do you know about the MasterCoat Rust Sealer Primer? It's pretty amazing stuff, and really does a great job sealing everything up. A lot of the 70 series guys are using it in rebuilds. Goes on easy with brush or roller, or they have one that can be sprayed with out thinners. Two coats required, and can be over coated with anything.

nomorerust.com

Mastercoat® Ultimate Permanent Rust Sealer SILVER Primer, Original & Sprayable Slim QUART - Mastercoat® & The Master Series Coating Line - No More Rust™

Mastercoat Permanent Rust Sealer is a professional paint over rust application that will stop rust permanently at low prices.
nomorerust.com nomorerust.com
 
svsisu said:
Do you know about the MasterCoat Rust Sealer Primer? It's pretty amazing stuff, and really does a great job sealing everything up. A lot of the 70 series guys are using it in rebuilds. Goes on easy with brush or roller, or they have one that can be sprayed with out thinners. Two coats required, and can be over coated with anything.

nomorerust.com

Mastercoat® Ultimate Permanent Rust Sealer SILVER Primer, Original & Sprayable Slim QUART - Mastercoat® & The Master Series Coating Line - No More Rust™

Mastercoat Permanent Rust Sealer is a professional paint over rust application that will stop rust permanently at low prices.
nomorerust.com nomorerust.com
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thats not a bad idea for the bottom of the pan. It would be easy to spray with my paint gun it seems like. I think Ill pick some of that up.Thanks man
 
Land Shark said:
Nice work! That cooler is sweet. Can’t wait to see it in the 55 and with your talent of awesome pictures have no doubt it will be a show piece.
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Thanks man! I cant wait to get it going again. I need to buy some paint soon too.
 
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