I cut the rusted section out of my amby doors & there is some rust inside obviously. How are you guys treating rust in hard to reach places? I've heard that you should plug up the holes (temporarily) and pour some primer inside the doors and swish it around to coat the inside. I like that idea, just thought I should clean off the rust first.
Rust inside doors - treatment?
- Thread starter gcrump01
- Start date
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Por 15
Loctite extend or other rust converter. I've had better luck with liquid rather than aerosol spray products.
Por 15 is brush on. But on second thought weld through spray on cold galvanizing would be better in this case.
Evaporust is what I used for mine and was amazed at how well it works. Two or three gallon jugs in a cooler for a few days. If you search my name I think I may have pictures of the doors after they were done. Autoparts stores and harborfreight has it.
I've been treating any remaining surface rust with phosphoric acid prior to priming.
Beyond that I'm using your method of soaking the area with primer, either sprayed or thinned until it is runny enough to flow into tight spaces.
The acid converts iron oxide into iron phosphate so the rust will not resume under the paint.
Phosphoric acid is available from Lowes in the paint dept. sold as Jasco Metal Prep & Primer, about $9 per quart.
Big parts like the door can be put on a plastic tray so as the acid runs off you can periodically brush it back on.
The stuff spatters. Wear safety glasses!
Treat parts for about 15 - 30 minutes then rinse with lots of water and dry as quickly as possible.
I have a car that was restored by my father 40 years ago that received the above treatment prior to painting and the rust has not returned yet.
Beyond that I'm using your method of soaking the area with primer, either sprayed or thinned until it is runny enough to flow into tight spaces.
The acid converts iron oxide into iron phosphate so the rust will not resume under the paint.
Phosphoric acid is available from Lowes in the paint dept. sold as Jasco Metal Prep & Primer, about $9 per quart.
Big parts like the door can be put on a plastic tray so as the acid runs off you can periodically brush it back on.
The stuff spatters. Wear safety glasses!
Treat parts for about 15 - 30 minutes then rinse with lots of water and dry as quickly as possible.
I have a car that was restored by my father 40 years ago that received the above treatment prior to painting and the rust has not returned yet.
i use a rust converter (takes 24 hours to dry) - tape up all the holes and pour it in. I shake it around for a while... let it sit for a few minutes and then pour it out.
The next day I take rustoleom red primer and (with all the holes still taped up) I pour that in and shake it around a lot and then pour it out.
Two to three days later I will take rustoleom gloss black and pour that in and shake it around a lot and then pour it out.
I then take a tap after a couple days and chase all the threaded holes. I haven't had any issues with rust (I know this because water would go in the top of my barn doors and leave a rust streak at the bottom of my rear sil. Since I did this procedure I have had no issues. I also drilled a drain hole since my doors didn't have one. This also works well with windshield frames but they can be a little harder to do. Eastwood makes a neat spray paint for stuff like this too. It comes with a snake like attachment and it converts rusts as it goes through your door/frame/whatever.
The next day I take rustoleom red primer and (with all the holes still taped up) I pour that in and shake it around a lot and then pour it out.
Two to three days later I will take rustoleom gloss black and pour that in and shake it around a lot and then pour it out.
I then take a tap after a couple days and chase all the threaded holes. I haven't had any issues with rust (I know this because water would go in the top of my barn doors and leave a rust streak at the bottom of my rear sil. Since I did this procedure I have had no issues. I also drilled a drain hole since my doors didn't have one. This also works well with windshield frames but they can be a little harder to do. Eastwood makes a neat spray paint for stuff like this too. It comes with a snake like attachment and it converts rusts as it goes through your door/frame/whatever.
I've used por-15 with its metal ready prep and it seems to have worked in the pig since 2000. I wonder if doing a coating of the gas tank re-furb paint compound work work okay.
good luck, ty
good luck, ty
I had pretty good success with the Evapo-Rust on hardware and bolts that I could soak thoroughly. It's cheap enough and easy to source so it would be worth a try. I also have used phosphoric acid but it is a little nastier to deal with.
I poured bedliner in my front doors after replacing the lowers and opened the wep holes. Still going strong after 13 years.
bam! Take that rust. Awesome.
ACF-50 works well. Use it on aircraft corrosion. Lear Chemical Research Corporation
There was a company in Tempe Az that i had dip an entire 40 tub and all pieces. They used electrolytic rust removal which is basically a
low level current passed through sodium bicarbonate ( Arm & Hammer Washing Soda) in water. After two days there was no paint, rust seam sealer, body filler, just bare clean metal.
low level current passed through sodium bicarbonate ( Arm & Hammer Washing Soda) in water. After two days there was no paint, rust seam sealer, body filler, just bare clean metal.
And after all the resto work is done (including paint or cold galv. spray), spray some aerosol Lithium grease in the bottom of the door, and let it creep into the welds and folds. Cheap and works very well. Nothing entombed in grease will rust, just be sure to clear the drain holes.
I sprayed black Zero rust in my doors and let it dry a day ...Than I used Noxudol 300 or Noxudol 700....Later one is liquid cavity wax-it takes days to dry a little..the 300 is black undercoating which can be used,too...My doors were in pretty good shape before I started...It is made in Sweeden and they know how to deal with rust....Can is about 16-19,-$...both cans have a long nozzle....I have sprayed other cavities(in the frame,in the hood,front bumper,driver back amb.doors etc with it...it dries slow...
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