ROTW: Fiona (1 Viewer)

[CruisinFJ60]

That looks good, anyone around to wonder what you were doing out there in a field by yourself? "Now WTF is that guy driving his car that way for?"

haha actually yes. I live in an area of mostly (this is not racist) black people and all the white people here are old (cept me) and pretty few and far between, 2 asians im aware of, and like 3 hispanic familys. while i was there some older black guy was giving me funny looks like i was a moron. then some old white guy waitin at the bus stop was watchin me from a little ways away. when i left the black guy had done walked back by and was gone but the old white guy was still waitin for the bus, he stood up and gave me a big 2 thumbs up. LOL it was pretty funny stuff.

I am liking the looks (more the price) of those shocks you posted up. I need to get the ford shock towers, too. I'm glad you pulled ahead of me in the springover race. Now I can let you do all the figuring for me and I'll just go buy the parts.

on he shocks it shows a discount cause i still use one of the parts dealers under a fleet account from a previous employer, i just put it on my card and they still hook it up. i think retain is likely closer to 35-40 each.

lol, thanks for lettin me do it but in all fairness had you not posted up bout the D60 spring perches i would likely not have done it.

mama calls mine the other woman so it fits

Super duty's not old skool F250 I have a set of super duty mount on goin to use this time I 'll look and see if I have any extra shocks I got Bilstein's for Pickle

Yea i got ya on the shocks prices and part numbers were for an 02 F250 super duty 7.3 diesel 4x4. and the lone shock i have is off of something similar from when i was turning wrenches for another shop. dunno if it is the same exact year but it was also off of an f250 super duty 4x4.

what super duty mounts you talkin about? the shock towers? pictures?

 

[CruisinFJ60]

so i just got done measuring the shocks i had on the rear of the 60 and they are 18" compressed and 30" extended making them 12" travel which i think will be pretty good for the rear allowing me to run the shocks more on the outside than on patches. then i can run the f250 rear shocks up front which were 18" compressed 31" extended and 13" travel. I think i can make them work pretty well if i have them in the right spot.

HERE is a link to the shocks i had on the rear that i got from Man-It-Aint-Free (all kidding aside) they have been good shocks they are part number 9116 from their Heckthorn line and according to their site my measurments were a little off and they had a tad more travel, compressed they are 17.52" and extended 29.92"

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Ok well not much of an update but did get a little done today.

I pulled the gear box out of Fiona today to drill and tap it for the ram assist I didnt bother taking any pictures as Jason did enough picture taking in his thread he wrote HERE. I got the box apart and was surprised at the amount of crap and sludge inside of it. anyhow after having a leaking gear box for the last 3 years and what i think is a high pressure line but looking more at it today appears to be more of a pump that has died (i have a spare so no worries.) that portion of the truck is likely rust proofed enough to swim in the ocean (tho i never would) even under the gearbox where most peoples frame is clean mine was still horribly filthy.

Anyway...

i drilled the box and have not yet tapped it, ill do it tomorrow morning. I have the trail gear ram assist kit and went by home dept to get some 1/4" pipe thread to whatever the lines for the ram were and found out home depot doesnt sell 5/16th fittings (thats what the fittings on the ram and lines are), the stuff they have is only in 1/8ths. so 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 ect. so i will go to a place called stewart hose and pipe tomorrow and pick up the fittings i need, i figure ill get 4 of em then 4 caps to cap it off should i have a ram failure or one of the lines to the ram fail. the 2 fittings and 2 caps will be for spares for whatever reason.

I bought a gearbox seal kit from autozone i will be using but seeing as how not many seals were really moved or touched i wont be doing a complete seal job, just the exterior ones that could leak down the road and then the ones where i had to take it apart. the part numbers for the seal kit are a couple of pages back if your interested.

I had a 2 jaw puller that just wasnt cutting it for pulling the pitman off, so i went down to autozone to rent theirs. it was 14 bux plus tax so 15.16 here in texas. at 8.25% sales tax. i put it on and i didnt even need to hit it started to tighten it and felt it get loose and noticed it was pulling the arm right off... how the right tools make all the difference in the world. at some point in time i guess i need to prolly get me one of those, not really sure how and why i dont already have one. anyhow i took a pic of the box that has the part number on it for reference.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Nice. It's always easier when you have the right tools.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

ok well got the gear box drilled last night, then tapped it today after i picked up the fittings. they were 1/4 x 18 pipe male - #6 flare I picked up 4 of those and 4 caps and it cost me a whopping like 4 bux and some change. got the ram halfway mounted to the axle tried to do the cool clampy thingy like boots revised his to but royally screwed up and tossed that idea, i have another type of sleeving idea i think i will give a shot that will be much much easier to do and should be plenty strong.

the ram is way to the passenger side prolly only 1/4" from the passenger spring perch if that. It allowed me to be able to attach the ram to the tie rod (however i decide to do so) and be able to keep the ram nice and even with the tie rod, and at full extension of the ram it will not contact the top perch plate even if perfectly aimed at it.

now when i tapped the box i went a little to far so the fitting where it does NOT say "TOYODA" is a tad deep and caused me to loose a little bit of left turn (tho if the steering stops were in it may have still been equal turning)... anyways, so to compensate and be able to have equal left and right turning i clocked the pitman arm then pulled the steering wheel to re center. i could not adjust at the drag link to straighten the wheel since the pitman was clocked, it would end up still being in correct. so now i have equal turning left and right again and it is still more than the turn stops would allow so im happy. hell if it limited it just enough from kepping it from crushing the felts i may not but the turn stops back in.

I got some pictures of the part numbers and prices for the fittings but i will post them later with pictures i have yet to take of the ram and junk.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

1.) Fitting part numbers and prices
2.) total
3.) what i bought

 

[CruisinFJ60]

then i was under the front end trying to decide how i was gonna do the tie rod mount then realized what i had planned wasnt going to work. having failed miserably at my first attempt to make a clamp for the tie rod i figured id just weld it on, but before i did that i wanted to align it. so i decided to leave it for now ill figure it out later. also i have a slow but steady drip coming from the power steering pump someplace, so i guess ill be pulling that off of there to replace it, either using my spare or maybe ill go hit up a junk yard and get me a saginaw pump off of something. Im still undecided.

so then i decied i would mess with the rear shocks a little and see where i wanted o mount the lower tabs and to see if relocating the uppers would yield any benefit. i did decide where i wanted the lowers and i think the uppers may potentially be ok'ish for a little while but i think moving them in towards the middle a few inches will yeild more travel, just need to see if the tires hit before the shocks bottom out with the upper tabs in factory location.

1.) then looking around i see this.... very very depressing... It goes all the way through and is right above the passenger spring hanger
2.) nother
3.) driver side rear spring hanger.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

I was aware of the crap further back in the frame and didnt really see it as an immediate issue since it had no holes... well now i have holes... and further forward then i anticipated. It is fixable but im not to excited about having to cut a chunk of frame out to fit it... could be a good time to move the rear axle where i want it when i take out the frame to build new. still sucks, we will see how long it last like it is i guess.

1.) what i knew about
2.) passenger side
3.) knew this was here but didnt know it was that bad, not concerned bout it tho, easy fix where it is at.

 

[kling-on]

I got a frame set up for a veeate ... Sorry to hear your frame is rotten


other Offer still stands too

 

[boots4]

It's crazy how those steel inner C's warp like that.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

I got a frame set up for a veeate ... Sorry to hear your frame is rotten


other Offer still stands too

that is honestly the first thing that popped into my head to
But i really think since it only appears to be the back half i can just fix it when it gets a little worse I figure i have a year or 2 before it becomes a major issue. the out side and bottom portion are not (yet) cancer, so it still should be as strong as c channel can be. then when i replace it ill use some good rectangle stock.
I chopped a rear portion of my frame from one of my s-10's to notch it so it would clear the axle and be able to lay the frame on the ground (it was bagged) so i figure this is similar. we will see i guess.

did you ever find anything else on them tires?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Ouch. Welcome to the club I guess. Repairs under the truck like that are no fun.

This summer when I pick up a frame to remedy that very issue, I intend to remove the rear inner c-channel, box the rear section, put the rear springs up front and some chevy 63" springs in the rear with the axle moved back a bit.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Ouch. Welcome to the club I guess. Repairs under the truck like that are no fun.

This summer when I pick up a frame to remedy that very issue, I intend to remove the rear inner c-channel, box the rear section, put the rear springs up front and some chevy 63" springs in the rear with the axle moved back a bit.

my buddy actually has a 100% rust free frame sitting in his driveway right now from an 85 FJ60 that i could likely get for cheap but not sure i wanna do an entire swap. it seems easier to just take care of the back half since the front half seems good still.

guess time will tell if i need an entire swap or not. i just dont think i could part her out due to some frame rot, id rather fix her as we have alot of memories, after all ill of had her 4 year this july and that is over a year longer than i have kept any of my 29 vehicles ive owned. besides if an entire swap is needed i guess that would be a good excuse to play with some links and if nothing else see how low i can get her and do like you say on yours.

 

[kling-on]

that is honestly the first thing that popped into my head to....did you ever find anything else on them tires?

he only wants one trade.... I wont do it unless it get me a 42


let me know your truggys loaded on your trailer and you dont need tires any way

 

[CruisinFJ60]

he only wants one trade.... I wont do it unless it get me a 42


let me know your truggys loaded on your trailer and you dont need tires any way

oh well.

i havent decided if i will run the 33's or the 35's at round up yet, the 33's do really well in mud and stuck like glue last year, the 35's dont do as well in the mud and ive never had them on the rocks.

hopefully i can trade em off or sell em (one or both sets) for bigger meats for fiona and or some new tires for my 3/4T

oh and on the 42... I ordered 2 turbo manifolds today... and ive got i think 3 good turbos sitting around here.

 

[kling-on]

oh well.

i havent decided if i will run the 33's or the 35's at round up yet, the 33's do really well in mud and stuck like glue last year, the 35's dont do as well in the mud and ive never had them on the rocks.

hopefully i can trade em off or sell em (one or both sets) for bigger meats for fiona and or some new tires for my 3/4T

oh and on the 42... I ordered 2 turbo manifolds today... and ive got i think 3 good turbos sitting around here.

the pics I saw of the 35's... I would keep the 33 on, they look bald

 

[CruisinFJ60]

the one that is siped is the lowest one and at the wear bar (so from top of wear bar that is 2/32nds to top of tread) just now measured with a real tread depth gauge is 4.5/32nds then next lowest one is 8/32nds from wear bar then 9-9.5/32nds for the other 2.

so really a good bit of life left to them, i think the tread pattern being so tight makes them look like they have less rubber then they do. now the BFG's have 14/32nds from the wear bar which is also 2/32nds tall. just measured them as well.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

time to pull this back from ho many ever pages it is.

I picked up some 38.5's yesterday on craigs list, i think i could have gotten a better deal but to late now. they are in reasonable shape and should be fine for a season of wheeling as they are Bias ply and are going to be more resistant to cuts and coming apart.
anyhow got em off of the wheels they came with and mounted up on my 2.5" BS black wheels and on the truck.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

last 2

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Looks great man. I gotta get some bigger meats for moonshine