ROTW: Brokenparts FJ-60

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Wow you pulled her apart huh you were allmost done is this all for the bigablock
 
Dirtgypsy said:
is there going to be anything left when you are done?

clint
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ahhhh..... I dunno. I'm really tempted to clip off the front of the frame at this point to make more room for the 3 link.

kling-on said:
Wow you pulled her apart huh you were allmost done is this all for the bigablock
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It'll be worth it.
 
im glad some people are making progress on their sixtys.
 
While my motor is at the machine shop I've been dinking around with the three link. One thing I really dont like is how straight up and down the coilovers end up. I'd like to tilt them in a bit /\ which leaves me only a couple options... cut the front of the frame off OR outboard the axle side coilover mounts. The second option seems much much easier. I dont need much... just a couple inches will do.

I like these from sniper fab and they look like they'll clear the hight steer arms but I'm a bit timid welding to the dana 60 inner "c". From what I can tell from searching, the way to do it is to "preheat" the inner c then weld? Anything else to consider while welding to the inner C?

here's what I'm considering for the outboard coilover mounts:

D60 Coilover Tabs for Inner C (Pair) [SFW-BB1012] - $12.95 : Sniper Fabworks 888-999-8149

or

Link tower shock outboarding mount.
 
Can I ask why you don't want 'em vertical . ? are you considering when you running angled coilovers that will afect your setup .. coz the spring rate will not be the same if you run them angled ..
 
Tapage said:
Can I ask why you don't want 'em vertical . ? are you considering when you running angled coilovers that will afect your setup .. coz the spring rate will not be the same if you run them angled ..
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I'm afraid of this:

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when the tire is up on a rock I'm afraid that coilover will hit the steering arm especially if I have the steering wheel at full turn. I'm running 2.5 coilovers so it is a tight fit. I dont want to get crazy with the /\ just a few inches will help out alot. I figure if I can get the mount "up" (more up than over) and "over" I can avoid the knuckle and the coilover hitting the frame at full droop.

I also think I am going to re-do the panhard bar and moving the upper link arm to the passenger side to help clear the exhaust that needs to go through the driver's side....

Heck, maybe doing a 4 link makes more sense now. I've got to get the motor in there again to really make decisions though.
 
Picked up my motor from the machine shop. Here is the work that was done and the final specs:

454 previously bored to a 460
Estimated Compression ratio 9.5-9.8
x4 262h Cam (new lifters, springs,timing chain, etc)
milled 049 Heads with 2.19/1.88 stainless steel valves, pocket ported bowls
Edelbrock Performer 2.0 intake-port matching and milled for correct head geometry
TRW 30 over forged pistons
Comp Cams Magnum roller tip rockers (1.72)
New Rings/hone, bearings, cam bearings, oil pump
crank polished
Zero decked block
ARP bolts for Assembly

Comp Cams desktop dyno puts it right at 500hp @5000 and 565 ftlbs @ 4000 on gas and 473hp/533 ftlbs on propane.
 
about your coilover lower support another option ( maybe less desirable ) would be raise a bit the lower mount so the skinny part of the coilover lower mount give you more clearance there ..
 
brokenparts said:
...Big Blocks are heavy for one person to shoe horn into a yota. I'm tired.
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I know the feeling. My diesel is about the same weight and I didn't take off the fenders or radiator support which necessitated the use of two people. Great to see the progress! You will be sniffing fumes soon!

What color you gonna paint the valve covers? I say smurf blue or bright orange.
 
boots4 said:
I know the feeling. My diesel is about the same weight and I didn't take off the fenders or radiator support which necessitated the use of two people. Great to see the progress! You will be sniffing fumes soon!

What color you gonna paint the valve covers? I say smurf blue or bright orange.
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I tried getting the 350 out with the fenders on and it was a pain in the rear.... The fenders came off to help get the big block in and because I really need to re-work the three link now. Having the fenders and tires off really will help with getting the right angles to weld Its actually looking more and more like I'm going to 4 link it now. The panhard really is getting in way.
 
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