ROTM: The Iron Mule (T.I.M.)

[GLTHFJ60]

Thanks Johnny! I'm also replacing my lug studs. I broke one in Alaska last year. Is there an upgrade for those studs as well, or do people just use stock? I didn't know if it is that common or not to break lug studs. Thanks for the help.

Chad

That I do not know. I believe that people just replace with new OEM studs. This is something that I need to do but have yet to research.

 

[boots4]

OEM studs will be fine if you can find them. The front are different from the rear due to going through the rotor into the hub. If you get after market studs (like napa, baxter, etc) they tend to be just a little more portly which can sometimes make driving them in a little difficult.

 

[Ducks]

I have decided to sell the trailer that I just got. Here is the thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/vehicles-trailers-sale-wanted/463895-m100-flatbed-generator-trailer.html

I'm not going to trailer my wheels/tires up to the ACT 2011. Instead I'll just buy some new ones and drive them up. I was getting a little a head of myself. I think I eventually want to go SOA and get 36" TSL/SXs but I don't need them for Alaska. Did just fine with my current setup (although I am a part of the Low Riders' Club). When I eventually get around to doing Rubithon and Dusy Ershim, I'll save up my pennies so I can go SOA first and get a Toybox. (Plus I need to learn how to weld.) But I don't need any of that stuff for Alaska.

Chad

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Johnny, did you replace the hub studs on both your front and rear axles? Do you have to really tear into the front in order to replace the front hub studs? I am wondering if I should just order studs for the rear or if I should order enough for both the rear and the front. Think it is a good time to upgrade the front? The front axle was just rebuilt a few years ago and I haven't driven it much (other than the Alaska trip.)

Honestly I bought the stud kit for the rear because I've read about problems with hub studs on the FF axles. I stumbled upon a good deal on another set of studs as I was ordering the first set from FROR and decided to get both. I have read about a couple of guys shearing front hub studs while running rocky trails, on 36"+ tires, and because I plan to get to that size soon anyway, my thought was that it was better to swap in better hub studs in my driveway rather than have to figure out a trail fix somewhere out in the bush. That, to me, counts especially when you're way up in the Alaskan bush

As for installation on the front axle, the steps are as follows and are pretty simple. Shouldn't take more than 15-20 minutes per side.

1. Unbolt locking hub face and remove ( in "free" position )
2. Remove outer birf snap ring
3. Unbolt free wheel hub (silver portion of hub assy), pound out cone washers and remove
4. Double nut each hub stud to remove, then save old studs for future repairs / spare parts
5. Intall new ARP studs via double nut method
6. Install free wheel hub with cone washers, lock washer and mecahnical locking nuts ( new nuts come with ARP studs )
7. Install outer birf snap ring
8. Install locking hub face

 

[Ducks]

Honestly I bought the stud kit for the rear because I've read about problems with hub studs on the FF axles. I stumbled upon a good deal on another set of studs as I was ordering the first set from FROR and decided to get both. I have read about a couple of guys shearing front hub studs while running rocky trails, on 36"+ tires, and because I plan to get to that size soon anyway, my thought was that it was better to swap in better hub studs in my driveway rather than have to figure out a trail fix somewhere out in the bush. That, to me, counts especially when you're way up in the Alaskan bush

As for installation on the front axle, the steps are as follows and are pretty simple. Shouldn't take more than 15-20 minutes per side.

1. Unbolt locking hub face and remove ( in "free" position )
2. Remove outer birf snap ring
3. Unbolt free wheel hub (silver portion of hub assy), pound out cone washers and remove
4. Double nut each hub stud to remove, then save old studs for future repairs / spare parts
5. Intall new ARP studs via double nut method
6. Install free wheel hub with cone washers, lock washer and mecahnical locking nuts ( new nuts come with ARP studs )
7. Install outer birf snap ring
8. Install locking hub face

Thanks Johnny. I ordered studs for both the front & rear. They were on back order but are now supposed to ship on Monday. I have some rear lug studs from a while back and now I just need to get some front lug studs. I get my FF rear axle in April. So I think I have all the parts I'll need coming together. I might need to replace my rotors. Thanks for the procedure.

Chad

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Thanks Johnny. I ordered studs for both the front & rear. They were on back order but are now supposed to ship on Monday. I have some rear lug studs from a while back and now I just need to get some front lug studs. I get my FF rear axle in April. So I think I have all the parts I'll need coming together. I might need to replace my rotors. Thanks for the procedure.

Chad

No problem man! After you get the FF installed, every single time you look at it you will smile. I've had mine under Moonshine for almost 2 years now and I grin every time I walk up to her Where did you get your FF from?

 

[Ducks]

No problem man! After you get the FF installed, every single time you look at it you will smile. I've had mine under Moonshine for almost 2 years now and I grin every time I walk up to her Where did you get your FF from?

Found it here on 'MUD in the vehicle classifieds. A guy in Nevada was selling his fj60 along with the FF axle and h55. He sold the fj60 but still had the FF axle so I bought that. He's driving up the PCH in April, so I'll hook up with him then. Looking forward to getting it all installed. I think I'll go with the PP axles. I think I can squeeze it into my budget.

Chad

 

[Ducks]

Does anyone have or know where to find installation instructions for an Aussie Locker into a Full-Floater axle? I know how to install an Aussie Locker in the rear with an inspection cover and c-clips but I don't know how to install it into a FF setup. I know it can be done because I used to have an Aussie Locker on the front. My instructions that came with the locker are somewhere in storage. I checked again and I know that it is the same part number for the locker whether it is a semi-float or full-float. lynchmob is finishing up the installation of my FF rear axle this week and we were wondering how to install the Aussie Locker into the FF rear axle. TIA.

Chad

 

[BGarcia88FJ62]

Same Install Process just install in the Diff on your bench, install Diff in your housing, slap the axle's in and bolt'm up. You'll never have to fuss with the F'n c-clips again which is a huge bonus.

 

[Ducks]

Same Install Process just install in the Diff on your bench, install Diff in your housing, slap the axle's in and bolt'm up. You'll never have to fuss with the F'n c-clips again which is a huge bonus.

Thanks Benjamin. Will do.

Chad

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Hi Chad,
I know this is an old thread but hoping you see this post. I’m talking to a really good Mud member in OR that currently owns your old 60. Helping a good friend of mine buy his first 60 and have read through your build threads etc. my understanding is the 12HT was rebuilt and a new H55 installed at some point. I can’t find any documentation on this via your threads and curious if you can shed any light on this. I did attempt to send you a PM but your inbox is full.
Any insight you can provide is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jimmy Johnson
Cell 713-805-3962