ROTM: The Iron Mule (T.I.M.)
- Thread starter Ducks
- Start date
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omg... what a scenery... B)
Glad to hear the rig held up. Lovely thing!
Glad to hear the rig held up. Lovely thing!
- Thread starter
- #63
I got a hold of Chris Lynch and he was able to fix my oil leak and solved why my throw-out bearings were wearing out. I also took it over to Metal Tech in Newberg and LT lowered my bumpstops and notched my crossmember so my tires and front driveshaft would stop rubbing. LT put my '60 up on the forklift to have a look. Here is my SUA flex (sorry about the crappy phone pics.) The top of the rear tire is easily over 5 feet off the ground. My front springs were starting to invert. My front sway bar was ripped off during the Alaska Cruiser Trek and I never got around to fixing it.
LT also made this awesome skid plate for the t-case. When I get pictures of that I post them up next. The notched crossmember is also very clean. I'm very happy with Metal Tech.
LT also made this awesome skid plate for the t-case. When I get pictures of that I post them up next. The notched crossmember is also very clean. I'm very happy with Metal Tech.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
So why were the throw out bearings going bad?
Thanks for the update.
Thanks for the update.
- Thread starter
- #66
The springs on the pressure plate did not wear evenly. Not sure why. Chris said although the noise was loud from the bearing, it would have lasted quite a while. He rebuilt the clutch and installed a new pressure plate. He also used a larger bearing. Chris emailed me some pics. Here they are:
Chad
- Thread starter
- #67
Here is a picture of the notch that LT at Metal Tech put in my crossmember and also the skid plate he made for my t-case. I think the only problem now is that the skid plate might be in contact with the t-case because now when I am stopped at a light and I'm idling, the entire body vibrates. As soon as I start to rev up the engine, even before the clutch is engaged, the vibration goes away. I think I might put some spacers in where the skid plate attaches to the frame. Anyone got any suggestions on what I should use for spacers? I guess I could use washers but I think something like plastic or rubber would be better. I think I just need to lower the skid plate a little so that it is not in contact with the t-case.
Chad
Chad
- Thread starter
- #68
Well, I just read over my thread. Realized that I never posted a link to the pictures that I used in a slide show about the Alaska Cruiser Trek 2010 at Metal Tech. Both Dan and I showed some pictures of the trip. Here is the link:
Picasa Web Albums - Chad Delany - Alaska Cruise...
I also just realized that if I have the clutch disengaged when I am stopped and the body is vibrating, the t-case should also be disengaged and not vibrating either. Any one got any ideas on where the source of the vibration could be? It didn't vibrate like this before I took it to Metal Tech and it significantly vibrates since I got it back from Metal Tech. Maybe I'll try spacers on the skid plate just in case to see if it makes a difference. Any suggestions for what I should use for spacers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Chad
Picasa Web Albums - Chad Delany - Alaska Cruise...
I also just realized that if I have the clutch disengaged when I am stopped and the body is vibrating, the t-case should also be disengaged and not vibrating either. Any one got any ideas on where the source of the vibration could be? It didn't vibrate like this before I took it to Metal Tech and it significantly vibrates since I got it back from Metal Tech. Maybe I'll try spacers on the skid plate just in case to see if it makes a difference. Any suggestions for what I should use for spacers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Chad
Well, I just read over my thread. Realized that I never posted a link to the pictures that I used in a slide show about the Alaska Cruiser Trek 2010 at Metal Tech. Both Dan and I showed some pictures of the trip. Here is the link:
Chad, just watched your link. Great pictures! Just a question: how do you keep your rig dry at the inside? Is it totally sealed? Or is everything just wet after you cross a river?
Seems a lot of fun, trekking through the wilderness with other 4x4 enthousiasts.
Great stuff and even better pictures. thanks for sharing.
GoDucks!
GoDucks!
Looks to me like the pressure plate was not torqued evenly. So, who ever installed that clutch is at falt, not the parts.
Confused on how a "bigger" pilot bearing would help wear on the pressure plate and throwout bearing.
I dig the diesel swap though.
Confused on how a "bigger" pilot bearing would help wear on the pressure plate and throwout bearing.
I dig the diesel swap though.
Hoping this thread is still alive....
Love the thread, I'm hoping its still alive. I was wondering who made the rear bumper? I don't recognize it from others I've read. Looks great. Do you have pictures of it during assembly if you build it yourself?
My second question is about the white 70 series in the pictures. How did it get all that front end damage? Looks nasty.
The pictures of your trip are stellar, just stellar.
Love the thread, I'm hoping its still alive. I was wondering who made the rear bumper? I don't recognize it from others I've read. Looks great. Do you have pictures of it during assembly if you build it yourself?
My second question is about the white 70 series in the pictures. How did it get all that front end damage? Looks nasty.
The pictures of your trip are stellar, just stellar.
- Thread starter
- #74
Well, I just read over my thread. Realized that I never posted a link to the pictures that I used in a slide show about the Alaska Cruiser Trek 2010 at Metal Tech. Both Dan and I showed some pictures of the trip. Here is the link:
Chad, just watched your link. Great pictures! Just a question: how do you keep your rig dry at the inside? Is it totally sealed? Or is everything just wet after you cross a river?
Seems a lot of fun, trekking through the wilderness with other 4x4 enthousiasts.
I replaced the weather stripping around the doors with custom weatherstripping by Kevin Rowland of wagongear.com and we also snugged up the closing of the tailgate. But as long as you keep moving while your crossing the river, you stay dry inside. The problem is when you get stuck or stalled out in the river. Then all the water comes flooding in. I never stalled or stopped while crossing the river so we stayed dry inside.
- Thread starter
- #75
Love the thread, I'm hoping its still alive. I was wondering who made the rear bumper? I don't recognize it from others I've read. Looks great. Do you have pictures of it during assembly if you build it yourself?
My second question is about the white 70 series in the pictures. How did it get all that front end damage? Looks nasty.
The pictures of your trip are stellar, just stellar.
The rear bumper was made by Jim at Solid Rock Off-Road in Colorado. He doesn't make them any more (as far as I know). I need to get an extra latch. One of the people on the Trek had a latch exactly like that one snap on them.
The white hzj78 radiator got destroyed by a snapped snatch strap. He was mirred down in some muddy ruts and they broke TWO snatch straps trying to yank him out. I forget who made the snatch straps but they weren't ARB snatch straps. I'll stick with my new ARB snatch straps.
John from Tahoe was in a grey bj70 and stuck in the same ruts but we decided to use his winch to pull him out of the ruts. That worked a lot easier.
Chad
Hey Chad,
The latches are made by a company called DeStaCo, you can get them fast and reliable from McmasterCarr, or a bit cheaper if you search.
McMaster-Carr
(Go to the page with the "pull action" toggle clamps)
Don't get fooled by the prices, you have a large expensive one there, a lot of folks get the small cheap ones since they are cheap, but they are not up to the task.
Truck looks great!
KR
The latches are made by a company called DeStaCo, you can get them fast and reliable from McmasterCarr, or a bit cheaper if you search.
McMaster-Carr
(Go to the page with the "pull action" toggle clamps)
Don't get fooled by the prices, you have a large expensive one there, a lot of folks get the small cheap ones since they are cheap, but they are not up to the task.
Truck looks great!
KR
- Thread starter
- #77
Thanks Kevin! I'll take some measurements and order one up. Wish I could just order the U-bolt. I don't think I need to have an entirely new latch as a back-up but whatever.
Chad
The individual parts are available as well, some from Mcmaster, others you will have to search the web for. - destaco-
- Thread starter
- #79
These might be coming to my garage pretty soon. 
I currently have Poly Pro chromoly semi-float axles. I need to pull them and check for wear. I need to install new lug studs anyways. I broke one stud during the ACT 2010 and its time for them to be replaced. But the FF should be fun. Does anyone know where to get spare FF rear axles? Oh, and can I use my current third and install it with the FF axles or do I need to use the third the axles came with? I would assume I could use the third I have now. It has an Aussie locker in it and it is 4.11. Just wanted to make sure.
Chad
I currently have Poly Pro chromoly semi-float axles. I need to pull them and check for wear. I need to install new lug studs anyways. I broke one stud during the ACT 2010 and its time for them to be replaced. But the FF should be fun. Does anyone know where to get spare FF rear axles? Oh, and can I use my current third and install it with the FF axles or do I need to use the third the axles came with? I would assume I could use the third I have now. It has an Aussie locker in it and it is 4.11. Just wanted to make sure.
Chad
- Thread starter
- #80
I also just bought this off-road trailer.
The plan is to get some Super Swamper LTBs in 35x12.5-15 and trailer them up to the Alaska Cruiser Trek 2011. Then I'll put them on at Mark W's shop and drive them to the trailhead from there. I'll also leave the trailer at Mark's shop. I think my Mickey Thompson Baja Claws will be pretty worn out by the time I've put two trips to Alaska on them and been driving them for a few years. Tire tread can make a big difference on the trail.
Chad
The plan is to get some Super Swamper LTBs in 35x12.5-15 and trailer them up to the Alaska Cruiser Trek 2011. Then I'll put them on at Mark W's shop and drive them to the trailhead from there. I'll also leave the trailer at Mark's shop. I think my Mickey Thompson Baja Claws will be pretty worn out by the time I've put two trips to Alaska on them and been driving them for a few years. Tire tread can make a big difference on the trail.
Chad