My theory is with thinner oil at room temp would seep easier through the crack or cooled down seals. This is what we all want right?
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Rotella 15W40 is Great!
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My theory is with thinner oil at room temp would seep easier through the crack or cooled down seals. This is what we all want right?
...Misspelled via IH8MUD app
This is an argument car guys have been having for decades and isn't likely to be solved anytime soon. Diehard car guys have their oils and no matter what others say, since they had one car go 200,000 miles it is the best for everything.
For me it seems fairly obvious that the large swing synthetic multigrades were not available in the past, but if you can give me an oil that acts thin when cold so it can be pumped more easily and get to the top of the motor but acts like a thicker oil does when it is hot that is obviously a good thing.
In my opinion the only thing thicker oil is good for is for engines that have leaks, but it still makes no sense. "Sacrifice engine longevity because you don't want to change seals?" I think maybe if you were in a hot climate and had an industrial engine that run constantly and stayed hot than a thicker oil might be ok, but the common idea is most damage occurs on start up when an engine has no lubrication, why prolong that with heavy oil. We have 0-40's now, best of both worlds.
For me it seems fairly obvious that the large swing synthetic multigrades were not available in the past, but if you can give me an oil that acts thin when cold so it can be pumped more easily and get to the top of the motor but acts like a thicker oil does when it is hot that is obviously a good thing.
In my opinion the only thing thicker oil is good for is for engines that have leaks, but it still makes no sense. "Sacrifice engine longevity because you don't want to change seals?" I think maybe if you were in a hot climate and had an industrial engine that run constantly and stayed hot than a thicker oil might be ok, but the common idea is most damage occurs on start up when an engine has no lubrication, why prolong that with heavy oil. We have 0-40's now, best of both worlds.
Scotty.....so you're using a 0w40 with no concern about using a heavy duty diesel oil like others ??
That's what I get out of it. It's a bit of a balance I guess.
OW40 doesn't have to be for a diesel. I use Mobil 0W40 Synthetic European car formula in my BMW
Hey Bull,
No I am not to worried about running a heavy diesel oil. Diesel burns a lot more dirty than gasoline, and it has a lot higher cylinder pressure than a gas engine so it pushes some of that dirty combustion crap past the rings, that is why diesel engines need more additives and detergents. Like BMAC I run a mobil 1 0w40.
No I am not to worried about running a heavy diesel oil. Diesel burns a lot more dirty than gasoline, and it has a lot higher cylinder pressure than a gas engine so it pushes some of that dirty combustion crap past the rings, that is why diesel engines need more additives and detergents. Like BMAC I run a mobil 1 0w40.
Can use 15w40 diesel oil on gas fj80.
Yes you can. I use that bad boy year round here in Arizona!
I've been running Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo 15-40 in my 40 for years, when Costco has Delo I usually buy it. Switched to 15-40 in the 80 back in May and just changed my oil last week, I'm changing it on short intervals since its still pretty new to me and has evidence of some PM neglect. The extra detergent additives in the oil appear to be working because the old oil was really black after about 1,500 miles. I'm going to stay on this schedule until it starts to clear up. I may switch to 5-40 in the dead of winter but otherwise I'm comfortable with running 15-40 in the 80. PSI at idle is definitely up from synthetic 5-30 that I first put in it.
X2 on this!
I developed a tick after changing to Rotella 15-40 with a NAPA gold filter. Never had one prior to the change. Why's that? Just change back to what I was running prior?
A variety of factors, but sometimes it can be due to the filter, although I might be curious about the oil weight change since it’s new to your rig, even though tons of people happily run it.
Napa gold is same as wix, and there are horror stories shared here. They can’t all be bad, but still. Maybe try a Toyota filter and see if it changes? No guarantee, but I’ve heard of it happening in a variety of engines, enough to think it’s a possibility, granted I’m certainly no expert. I’ve only run the common Toyota 90915-YZZD3 in mine with no tick, but also running 5w40, not 15. Mobil turbodiesel currently, but may try rotella T6 again due to local availability.
Napa gold is same as wix, and there are horror stories shared here. They can’t all be bad, but still. Maybe try a Toyota filter and see if it changes? No guarantee, but I’ve heard of it happening in a variety of engines, enough to think it’s a possibility, granted I’m certainly no expert. I’ve only run the common Toyota 90915-YZZD3 in mine with no tick, but also running 5w40, not 15. Mobil turbodiesel currently, but may try rotella T6 again due to local availability.
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Appreciate that, I'll order tonight
Ditch that oil filter and do not use a wix filter. Plenty of documented engine failures due to the wix filters.
Re: WIX filters
If you're using a WIX oil filter read this
forum.ih8mud.com
Somewhere around page 10 or 12 the instances of failures / dismal pressure start piling up.
I'm not saying I doubt it. I'm saying for as many vehicles wix are on with no issues, it's odd the land cruiser would have issue.
I don't disagree.
I have used Wix for years. My brother was a Shop Superintendent for a trucking company and he mapped and followed statistics of oil analysis for their fleet of trucks and used a few different brands to determine the best for their operation. They went with Wix wholeheartedly. I have used Wix on everything I own.
As I started seeing the very specific failures with the Wix filter on these engines, I stopped using them on my LC. It's not worth the risk to me. I now buy Toyota YZZD3 filters (10) at a time and use them as needed. When I buy that many, they are less than I can buy aftermarket filters locally. I also buy the oil pan plug gasket and replace that with every oil change now. I don't think I replaced an oil pan plug gasket for the 25 years I was on the farm. We also didn't care if the oil dripped on a driveway because there was no concrete driveway we were concerned about.
I will still use Wix on my GMC and my Studebaker, but absolutely not on my Toyotas or my wife's Chrysler.
Saw a guy with a Toyota filter on his Ford a few weeks back. He went on to explain that he has never had an issue on his Toyotas and it fits without leaking so he likes just having one filter brand and size to worry about.
That is where i am at. Cheap too when you buy them in bulk like i do
That is where i am at. Cheap too when you buy them in bulk like i do
The only thing you must be aware of is that some have a backflow valve in them and some do not. You should use what was designed for the engine, not just what will screw on and align the gasket.
Yours has obviously worked so far, just sayin' for some folks that don't know there's a difference.