I've seen all your build vids and have enjoyed them. I liked the 1FZ build but since I want to LS Swap an 80, this is awesome. Can't wait to see it back on the road.
RM Garage LS80 Build (1993 Land Cruiser LS Swap)
- Thread starter rmgarage
- Start date
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on the subject of cams.... I went with a Texas speed stage II low lift truck cam in my 5.3.... Very happy with it!
After tune and everything other than the cam is bone stock, it put 245hp to the wheels up here in Denver.
After tune and everything other than the cam is bone stock, it put 245hp to the wheels up here in Denver.
- Thread starter
- #23
Yep I've read that thread many times! The engine is already out, plug is already determined as the culprit, and I already have the replacements with sleeve retainer and will be staking them in. I still am going the LS route because I can't be bothered to put that 1FZ back in.
It was caught in my driveway! I got very lucky. No issues, engine still had 3+ quarts in it when I drained it. It's a complete excuse to repower, I won't deny that. Plus I enjoy the build process, this is my kryptonite - I finish something and get bored. I have to be building something or I get antsy
- Thread starter
- #24
From what I can tell, gen 3 or gen 4 doesn't matter too much if you:
1. Are tearing the engine apart anyway and can swap reluctor wheels, cam sensors, knock sensors
2. Are running a standalone like the terminator X which can run a 24x gen3 with a 6l80 transmission (link)
I drove the donor truck home from Copart yesterday and she's a good runner! No issues, good oil pressure, transmission shifts great etc. I'll still rip it apart to take a look inside but if I can get away with it, I'm going to try to do a budget refresh instead of a full rebuild. I've said these words before though and ended up with a full-on rebuild with machine work and new hardware.
Regardless of if I go 6L80 or not, we're still adding ~80-100hp and tq, and the cruiser was already a 4 speed beforehand that I had no issues or qualms with. Yes the 6L would be nice...but we'll have to see where we land
So, forgive my minor sidetrack here, but would there be room for a socket head pipe plug? 3/8 NPT is just slightly larger than 16mm, seems like you could tap it, thread in a little brass plug with a little pipe dope and be done with it. Not necessarily for you (by all means, swap away
) but it might be worth a look for anyone concerned about this. I'm just not sure if there's space to thread it in far enough to avoid the cover without blocking anything inside, so I'm just speculating.
- Thread starter
- #26
Maybe. There's an oil passage right behind it, wouldn't be much room for threads... maybe 2-3 threads before the "step" where the galley plug would stop, and where the oil passage beginsSo, forgive my minor sidetrack here, but would there be room for a socket head pipe plug? 3/8 NPT is just slightly larger than 16mm, seems like you could tap it, thread in a little brass plug with a little pipe dope and be done with it. Not necessarily for you (by all means, swap away
If it's capable of holding in most engines with just a friction fit, 3 threads might just do it. It's not something I'm considering for myself, I just saw the problem and it reminded me of drag racing guys using threaded freeze plugs. Maybe it'll be useful to someone at some point.
- Thread starter
- #28
Alright, small update. Before moving forward with the LS swap, I have to fix my current issues with the 1FZ so I can either set it aside or sell it. I took the 1FZ apart and confirmed that it was the right-side oil galley plug. I knew it had to be that since it was leaking from that general area and there is absolutely nothing that can create that size of a leak besides something pressurized.
I went and tested and tested a bunch of different plugs and determined the one which was already in there, a Dorman 555-108, is the best fitting plug. The Toyota ones are unobtanium or I'd use those.
These mic out at around 16.454-16.650mm and I grabbed the largest ones in the package and installed them in the block. This time I used Loctite 620, and staked them in the block with a blunt chisel. This moves the metal around the plug so it can't work itself back out. Honestly the Loctite 620 is probably strong enough but I'm not risking it this time.
I noticed that the back of the timing cover does have raised sections to hold these plugs in, but since the plugs sit below the deck surface on the front of the block, it would allow the plugs to back out enough to sit up against the cover, which is exactly what happened to me and why I'm in the mess in the first place. To combat that, I created some "pucks" which sit inside of the plugs and are flush with the front of the block. Now the plugs are left with virtually zero movement and should be stuck in there forever. These are also retained using Loctite 620.
Timing cover and oil pan get new Toyota FIPG and Toyota o-rings:
Here is a video showing all the small details and explaining the work done. I apologize for the overly dramatic titles and thumbnails, that's just what you have to do for YouTube or people will not click your video. Hope that makes sense.
I went and tested and tested a bunch of different plugs and determined the one which was already in there, a Dorman 555-108, is the best fitting plug. The Toyota ones are unobtanium or I'd use those.
These mic out at around 16.454-16.650mm and I grabbed the largest ones in the package and installed them in the block. This time I used Loctite 620, and staked them in the block with a blunt chisel. This moves the metal around the plug so it can't work itself back out. Honestly the Loctite 620 is probably strong enough but I'm not risking it this time.
I noticed that the back of the timing cover does have raised sections to hold these plugs in, but since the plugs sit below the deck surface on the front of the block, it would allow the plugs to back out enough to sit up against the cover, which is exactly what happened to me and why I'm in the mess in the first place. To combat that, I created some "pucks" which sit inside of the plugs and are flush with the front of the block. Now the plugs are left with virtually zero movement and should be stuck in there forever. These are also retained using Loctite 620.
Timing cover and oil pan get new Toyota FIPG and Toyota o-rings:
Here is a video showing all the small details and explaining the work done. I apologize for the overly dramatic titles and thumbnails, that's just what you have to do for YouTube or people will not click your video. Hope that makes sense.
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- Thread starter
- #29
Everything going back together... engine internals still looking beautifully brand new... because they ARE. 
And finally, I removed the LQ4 + 4L80E out of my donor truck. It has 270k miles and it ran pretty good, but I would definitely like to go through and at *least* reseal it, rering it, and put new bearings in. I know this is probably going to spiral into more work than I anticipate, but if I check everything out and it's in spec, I may skip the machine shop. Depends how it looks inside.
And finally, I removed the LQ4 + 4L80E out of my donor truck. It has 270k miles and it ran pretty good, but I would definitely like to go through and at *least* reseal it, rering it, and put new bearings in. I know this is probably going to spiral into more work than I anticipate, but if I check everything out and it's in spec, I may skip the machine shop. Depends how it looks inside.
The OEM plug is 16mm and is not serviced by Toyota. There is a 16mm plug listed for Previa but I have long forgotten the part number. When I fixed mine 23 years ago I used an "oversize" 5/8 inch plug and I used Locktite seal retainer.
It's still holding.
It's still holding.
- Thread starter
- #31
Alright, I bought some mounts from Selkirk Offroad and hopefully those show up by the weekend and I can test fit the engine... we're both located in Idaho so fingers crossed the shipping is fast. I also plan to try out mounts from cruisermatts, depending on how the mounts from Selkirk fit.
I'm not the biggest fan of poly bushings due to vibrations and would almost always rather use factory style engine mounts like @cruisermatt offers, but I'm not sure I'm ready to cut my stock mounts off the frame at this point.
Selkirk Offroad poly bushing mount:
CruiserMatts weld-in with factory style GM mount:
I'm not the biggest fan of poly bushings due to vibrations and would almost always rather use factory style engine mounts like @cruisermatt offers, but I'm not sure I'm ready to cut my stock mounts off the frame at this point.
Selkirk Offroad poly bushing mount:
CruiserMatts weld-in with factory style GM mount:
There is also Mark's 4WD mounts, which they now offer the Toyota type frame bracket. This allows changes in engine placement for LHD vehicles.
www.marks4wd.com
Currently sold out.
For example, I went 1/2" passenger, and 1.25" forward, for increased PS pump/gear clearance and I had to cut off and re-welded the Toyota mounts to make that happen. Another option is the move the steering gear 1/2" with a frame reinforcement plate.
I personally don't like the Selkirk Offroad mounts. 1) They center the engine creating clearance issues with the front axle. 2) Poly bushings. Between the two options given, 100% CruiserMatt.
Engine Mount kit - LS V8 to FJ80 | Marks 4WD
Our custom Australian Made ENGINE MOUNT KIT is designed to fit the LS V8 engine into your Toyota LandCruiser.
www.marks4wd.com
Currently sold out.
For example, I went 1/2" passenger, and 1.25" forward, for increased PS pump/gear clearance and I had to cut off and re-welded the Toyota mounts to make that happen. Another option is the move the steering gear 1/2" with a frame reinforcement plate.
I personally don't like the Selkirk Offroad mounts. 1) They center the engine creating clearance issues with the front axle. 2) Poly bushings. Between the two options given, 100% CruiserMatt.
Anyone just gone to hydraulic over electric power steering and ditched the engine mounted pump? Or run a Type 2 pump in the camaro/car location?
- Thread starter
- #35
What about when using a modified oil pan or lower profile pan, paired with a Tom Woods 2" driveshaft which is smaller in diameter than the factory shaft? I was worried about this.
We all try to use low profile pans like the Holley 302-1, 302-2, muscle car pan, or their knockoffs.
I would probably use a Holley 302-4 now that is available. No knockoffs yet since it is so new.
I am using a 302-1 knockoff with a smaller diameter driveshaft. I think the driveshaft clearance issue depends on transmission. I don't have an issue with my 6l90e.
I am not sure I would modify a pan. but some have..warpage..leakage..etc Mark's 4WD sells one.
Here is a view, looking forward, of my A/C compressor, bolted to the side of the engine, and the front diff. Sitting on bump stops.
As you can see..close.
other views..
Now imagine shifting the engine further to the passenger side like Selkirk Offroad mounts do.. I think their mounts require a lift because of that. Mine can sit on bump stops...
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I use a smaller diameter front driveshaft. It helps with clearance for various other components. I use a combination of custom/adance adapters motor mount brackets and c5 motor mounts.
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- Thread starter
- #38
Cleaned up and ready for a test fit with the Selkirk mounts. The engine has 270k miles so I'll be tearing it down and refreshing it. I'm hoping that the cylinders, journals, etc are good and I can get away with a re-ring, re-bearing, and new gasket set... but we know how that goes.
Selkirk Offroad LS swap airbox. I spoke with them on the phone and had a good experience, they seem very knowledgeable about these swaps and our 80 series platform.
Selkirk transmission mount and motor mounts:
First test fit, overall very happy with the fitment! The location of the engine will definitely move a little once the transmission is attached and it's mounted for good, but this gave a pretty good idea of where it will sit.
Video going over everything:
Selkirk Offroad LS swap airbox. I spoke with them on the phone and had a good experience, they seem very knowledgeable about these swaps and our 80 series platform.
Selkirk transmission mount and motor mounts:
First test fit, overall very happy with the fitment! The location of the engine will definitely move a little once the transmission is attached and it's mounted for good, but this gave a pretty good idea of where it will sit.
Video going over everything:
Watched the recent video a few hours ago. I provided a link for a 6.0 swap from a local guy here in AZ. You can see from his thread he was having issues with the fuel line and heat from the headers.
- Thread starter
- #40
I didn't see the link, can you share the link here?