Restoration FJ62 Ongoing

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This was gratifying to do. The dash was not the hardest thing I’ve done. Done right maybe a long weekend you can do. Just Dashes is big money and scheduling

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TexasLandCruiser said:
No, but if that’s a inquisitive question, that’s not the most difficult part of doing the dash
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I just think it’s impressive. For the price of full restoration, I would think this is a better option. I can do the repair myself. Then, take it to a shop for the covering.
 
Beams37 said:
I just think it’s impressive. For the price of full restoration, I would think this is a better option. I can do the repair myself. Then, take it to a shop for the covering.
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Absolutely! Sorry for late response. The reason I stripped it to down this is so when I built the foam back to surface dimensions I didn't want various levels of hard pushing in the the top vinyl. I've seen some condo the cracks and that can leave a potential hard spot to the touch or feel. I wanted a uniform sub surface to start fresh. The locktite foam is the best stuff. I was really able to shape it, that let the finish guy have a fresh surface. The dash edge or cantilever edge was a concern since I had to rebuild that part. Between my foam shaping, the foam 1/8 base layer and the vinyl it's rock solid
 
new stuff incoming. Disregard the fuse numbers, just for presentation. Will pair up 30/20/20 for chassis side. Alternator will get a 200a and the fan will be at 60a. Brushed Spal with Mishimoto controller. Power needy but will move more air than most

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TexasLandCruiser said:
The intake box was a long battle I was losing so reached out to Torfab after staring at their Diesel box. Heat is an issues, not only does this LS run 205 if it’s 30 degrees of 105 but the IATs were killing me. Once I got the Cold Air box installed I needed to deal with the heated surface so made a flame proof Nomex diaper with a damn sewing kit. Between the box and 5 layer cover, and making a thick rubber plenum to do 100% from fender air I dropped my ambient by 35-40 degree. Texas kinda hot so heat soaked at a light Texas 105 I’m at 125 ambient and soaked 145-150 degrees. Timing is good and AC is cold :). I wrap my own couplers…

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What radiator set up are you using in your swap?
 
pipernd said:
What radiator set up are you using in your swap?
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Champion 3 core cut to support, BTB Products ordered. Top hose to passenger side as well. The transmission cooler is not internal so ran the trans to stack. Much better cooling with those 2 not sharing same fluid. Spal 16" brushed with Mishimoto PWM. The cooling system was only 50% of the fix. The rest was filling inefficiency gaps. Fill the gaps like your life depends on it. (This is note to self from experience) I added some pics that may be redundant but my captains log. I don't know what happened to LT1 Tech website but he had the best drawings and ECU prints for pinouts available. The hand draw was Scott the tech at Spal drawing up my relays for install.

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TexasLandCruiser said:
Champion 3 core cut to support, BTB Products ordered. Top hose to passenger side as well. The transmission cooler is not internal so ran the trans to stack. Much better cooling with those 2 not sharing same fluid. Spal 16" brushed with Mishimoto PWM. The cooling system was only 50% of the fix. The rest was filling inefficiency gaps. Fill the gaps like your life depends on it. (This is note to self from experience) I added some pics that may be redundant but my captains log. I don't know what happened to LT1 Tech website but he had the best drawings and ECU prints for pinouts available. The hand draw was Scott the tech at Spal drawing up my relays for install.

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Thanks! Now I’m going to bother you again and ask about your air intake set up? That’s next on my list!
 
pipernd said:
Thanks! Now I’m going to bother you again and ask about your air intake set up? That’s next on my list!
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The air box is for the Disesl LC. Fabrication by Torfab. They've got 2 versions this one is a straight tube connection, their LS Swap is aluminum and the intake tube comes in at a 45 degree. Uses a flat panel that can be bought at the local store. Has 2 small brackets on sides to secure. The upstream side comes with 6"x12" rectangle inlet, came with blanking plate that you can fab a snorkel to. Pretty versatile. If you've got heat soak issue don't buy the diesel box I'm having issues shedding heat on short terms. However I'm plumbed in to drivers side mount, which I may switch it at some point. I used a 5 layer silicone/fiberglass Matt cut to size and created a diaper for it. I've found that it'll hold off convection much longer but wants the heat soak is in the box, then this works against you shedding it. Not a perfect answer other than it's been a journey. The black wrap over the MAF is actually a fiberglass starter cover with shiny on it. Huge huge relief of temps hitting the ambient on IAT 1 sensor. On a 80 degree day may be 10 over ambient, without it it can be 20-25 over.

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Cleaned up the grill and surrounds. Duplicolor OEM Toyota Grey Metallic. Used scotchbrite red to clean up paint, 0000 wool to polish chrome. 100% better. Delamination spots used syringe and filled voids with resin epoxy. Stable now.

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While I had the grill off I pulled the light housings and cleaned and painted. Cleaned old paint off the hot line across the front of the condenser. I bought some excess nylons 1" covering for hydraulic lines a while back. Great for sleeves to protect lines. Zip tie wherever you need. Here I used it as a wrap for the ac hot line

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Last night I finish sealing the radiator support from air leaks. Here I used D shaped edge trim and surrounded the sockets for the headlights. The lights now seal the holes closed. I have some embossed aluminum heat shield and cut up replacement splash shields at the fender meeting the radiator support. Those plastic or rubber things get tired from the heat. I used adhesive backed fiberglass heat shield material using Super 90 3M to cover the aluminum so edges to dig into the paint

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Last week finished up completely replacing my intake air system. Created a plenum or a true cold air ram. Dropped my IATs 25% overall and ambient was only 15 degrees over outside. In the photo looking through the support you see fresh aluminum wall. All the holes on drivers side feed the intake. This feeds the filter box via Aero Products double lined silicone used on a Piper Aerostar engine. The aluminum is structural wing 6061-6T aluminum for a Boeing 727 or McDonald Douglas DC-8. Why not...cause I can, or better explanation "just cause"

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TexasLandCruiser said:
The air box is for the Disesl LC. Fabrication by Torfab. They've got 2 versions this one is a straight tube connection, their LS Swap is aluminum and the intake tube comes in at a 45 degree. Uses a flat panel that can be bought at the local store. Has 2 small brackets on sides to secure. The upstream side comes with 6"x12" rectangle inlet, came with blanking plate that you can fab a snorkel to. Pretty versatile. If you've got heat soak issue don't buy the diesel box I'm having issues shedding heat on short terms. However I'm plumbed in to drivers side mount, which I may switch it at some point. I used a 5 layer silicone/fiberglass Matt cut to size and created a diaper for it. I've found that it'll hold off convection much longer but wants the heat soak is in the box, then this works against you shedding it. Not a perfect answer other than it's been a journey. The black wrap over the MAF is actually a fiberglass starter cover with shiny on it. Huge huge relief of temps hitting the ambient on IAT 1 sensor. On a 80 degree day may be 10 over ambient, without it it can be 20-25 over.

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The Torfab box didn't work for me in the end. Did okay job but this is the diesel version steel box and I could keep the steel from soaking up heat over the duration of a trip more than an hour.
 
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