Replace Radiator, which one?

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Do the CSF plus 3fe fan and blue clutch with15-20 k fluid and new hoses and breeze clamps and call it good.....

While in there do your power steering lines and trans cooler lines as well as PHH

E
 
Do the CSF plus 3fe fan and blue clutch with15-20 k fluid and new hoses and breeze clamps and call it good.....

While in there do your power steering lines and trans cooler lines as well as PHH

E

The 3fe fan swap is only really effective on the TRD supercharged rigs like mine. John
 
@flintknapper The bypass hose nipple on my OEM radiator has all but let go (just enough left to attach the hose to) and I'm looking at the same CSF 2517 Radiator you left a review on Amazon. It's been a few moons since you put it in, would you still recommend it for a replacement?
 
Highly suggest you read THIS THREAD so we don't have to :deadhorse:

Bottom line - best recommendation from sunny warm Arizona in the summer is the TYC 1918. Cheap AND cools best.

Cooling performance of the CSF 2517 has been specifically discredited in this heat stressed environment.
(But I DO have one in fine shape I'll sell you for cheap! :grinpimp: )
 
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@Bambusiero Tell me more about this gently used and cheap radiator you are selling. 👏
 
Ron Davis all aluminum 2 row, i have recorded up to 15F drop in coolant temp on long hill climbs

6rU6aNa.jpg
 
@flintknapper The bypass hose nipple on my OEM radiator has all but let go (just enough left to attach the hose to) and I'm looking at the same CSF 2517 Radiator you left a review on Amazon. It's been a few moons since you put it in, would you still recommend it for a replacement?

Mine (and few others) have not had any problems with ours, BUT....conventional wisdom here suggests that most folks will do better with an Aluminum/Plastic radiator particularly if you see extreme heat loads (like in Arizona). I live in Texas and it gets pretty damn hot here in the Summertime. While I have not experienced any high temperatures with mine, other's that have purchased the 2517 after me...have not fared as well.

I don't know if CS changed something, or it they had a bad run....but there have been too many unfavorable reports about the CS 2517 to ignore. With that in mind....you might do well to consider something else.
 
How about a replacement Denso unit from RockAuto for $155?
 
How about a replacement Denso unit from RockAuto for $155?

Installed one, not impressed, thin, delicate fins, etc.
 
@Bambusiero Tell me more about this gently used and cheap radiator you are selling. 👏

Bought it new, used for 2 years in a truck in good cooling system condition. Clean inside and out.
As before, read that post. What else is there to say? (except "Are you nuts?")
 
Ron Davis all aluminum 2 row, i have recorded up to 15F drop in coolant temp on long hill climbs

6rU6aNa.jpg

This is a great unit but it’s $1100! :oops:
 
I cannot discuss this. Mine may have ears.
 
97 Land Cruiser.

Thought I had a headgasket leak...as I was getting a slow loss of fluid from my overflow tank. Couldn't find any obvious leaks elsewhere (hoses, etc).

Popped the hood this afternoon to do a Co2 test and noticed a small spurt of coolant from right at the top of the radiator (plastic top), did it once more then quit.

I could see where coolant had been blowing on top of the engine. Went ahead and tested the radiator (twice) for traces of Co2 and found none.

I want to replace the radiator but do NOT want any plastic on it this time.

What is conventional wisdom on this? Replace with the old style brass unit or find an all aluminum aftermarket. Anyone have a good suggestion on aftermarket.

NOTE: I live in Texas....so it gets HOT here (like the surface of the Sun), 8 months out of the year. The radiator needs to be good one.

Thanks, Flint.
Ron Davis. None better. Not for the budget-timid, though.
 
97 Land Cruiser.

Thought I had a headgasket leak...as I was getting a slow loss of fluid from my overflow tank. Couldn't find any obvious leaks elsewhere (hoses, etc).

Popped the hood this afternoon to do a Co2 test and noticed a small spurt of coolant from right at the top of the radiator (plastic top), did it once more then quit.

I could see where coolant had been blowing on top of the engine. Went ahead and tested the radiator (twice) for traces of Co2 and found none.

I want to replace the radiator but do NOT want any plastic on it this time.

What is conventional wisdom on this? Replace with the old style brass unit or find an all aluminum aftermarket. Anyone have a good suggestion on aftermarket.

NOTE: I live in Texas....so it gets HOT here (like the surface of the Sun), 8 months out of the year. The radiator needs to be good one.

Thanks, Flint.

Buy one of those trick aluminum ones @NLXTACY knows which one
 
My OEM gave out around 230,000 miles last summer (21 years) without head gasket failure. Leaked around the plastic tank where it connects to the aluminum. Figured if it lasted that long going OEM again isn't a bad option which is what I did.

The LX radiator gave out 2 years ago OEM around 210,000 miles. Tank split open under pressure - was found to have blown head gasket :(. Replaced with a cheap radiator and seems to do fine.
 
This is a great unit but it’s $1100! :oops:
Your right 1100 bucks is a lot of money to pay for a radiator, but superior materials, along with high quality workmanship always costs you more.
 
Your right 1100 bucks is a lot of money to pay for a radiator, but superior materials, along with high quality workmanship always costs you more.
I believe @NLXTACY credits that rad with saving the engine during his Time Of Darkness.
 
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