Build Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off

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Reeve, you could also put together hybrid FJ40 d-shafts, if you already have some late FJ60 or FJ62 shafts for parts.
On each of the FJ40 shafts, pull it apart at the slip joint. Slip the FJ60 splined end into the FJ40 d-shaft to get 60 pattern on one end. Service the u-joint on the other end, but put the FJ60 flange on instead of FJ40.
No messing around with pinion yoke & preload, no $$ spent changing pinion or t-case flanges.

HTH

Jim, good idea... I have a couple of spare 60 shafts. Looks like I will need to cut one down for sure and possibly lengthen the other to make them work.

J
 
Inching forward. Epoxy primer and Alk200.

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I spent the morning chasing threads on the rear axle housing, pressure washing the inside of housing to make sure that there isn't any media lurking and installed my backer plates with OEM hardware courtesy of my crack dealer, @beno .

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After researching the various pinion opinions, it seems like everyones is different.

What are your thoughts on changing pinion seal (and flange in this case @reevesci ) and maintaining the correct preload. FSM details disassembling the differential to check.

If you're messing with 78-earlier 4.11 diffs, it's no big deal. The pinion preload & depth is set by shims that are behind/between the bearing. Pulling off the yoke & re-installing, or even replaceing, should not have any effect on the pinion bearing.

It is the 84? and newer diffs that have a crushable sleeve to set preload, and can be fudged up if re-torked or overtorked.
 
I am waiting on a part for the axle shafts due this monday. I also cried uncle and took them to have the inner bearing races pressed on. I heated them in the oven to 350 slid them as far as they would go, and tapped as much as I was comfortable with. They have about an 3/4" to go.

My 5yo counted bolts/nuts/washers while I cleaned them up with the trusty craftsman tap and die set.

If all goes well, the rear axle will be complete within the next few days. And then on to the disc swap/front end rebuild.
 
Didn't know the drum brake fastners were still available.

Look closely at the mounting nuts. They are hi-tork fasteners. The nut has a thrust face that is flat (goes against the work), and a wrench face that has 'lead' (rounded edges) to help get a wrench on the nut. Looks like some of them are upside down on the brake.
 
Didn't know the drum brake fastners were still available.

Look closely at the mounting nuts. They are hi-tork fasteners. The nut has a thrust face that is flat (goes against the work), and a wrench face that has 'lead' (rounded edges) to help get a wrench on the nut. Looks like some of them are upside down on the brake.
It's awesome what is still available. @beno is very good at what he does.

Jim, it's amazing that you picked up on this from my cruddy pics. Thank you.
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If I am understanding you correctly, the nut on the left at 11kclock is correct while the other two are backwards?
 
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New pilot bearing. I removed the old one with a bolt and a hamburger bun. Also checked the new one for fit on the transmission. I am glad that I did as the shaft needed to be cleaned up with sandpaper.

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WOW that looks good! FYI at one point I think I gave someone we both know my rear drum brakes from my 40 when I changed to disc.
Good luck running the new brake lines. If you stay with drums I have the stainless steel flex rear lines since they were changed.
LMK
 
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