Builds Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off (2 Viewers)

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Yes, the 76 knuckles w/ disc brakes will go onto the 72 housing. It may be necessary to do a little grinding on the inside of knuckle, or grind a bit on the birf, so the slightly larger birf will slide inside the knuckle.
FWIW, I would use the 72 housing and 76 diff & knuckles. The drum axle is scrap, so no reason to keep it together, and you want to do a knuckle rebuild and regasket the diff anyway.
 
Yes, the 76 knuckles w/ disc brakes will go onto the 72 housing. It may be necessary to do a little grinding on the inside of knuckle, or grind a bit on the birf, so the slightly larger birf will slide inside the knuckle.
FWIW, I would use the 72 housing and 76 diff & knuckles. The drum axle is scrap, so no reason to keep it together, and you want to do a knuckle rebuild and regasket the diff anyway.

Thanks for the advice.
 
Had my rear axle sandblasted again and shot it and parts with PPG Shopline epoxy primer and PPG Alk -200 semigloss black.

I am much happier with the results. I have never used an HVLP gun and after I got a small malfunction cleared up with devilbiss customer support and dialed it in, I am amazed at how much easier it is to spray than a can. Cleaning the gun is time consuming.

Header is sandblasted and sprayed with VHT header paint.

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I have a few components off mine if you need anything. I have that same header and plan on getting it blasted and painted tomorrow.

J
Thanks jason, I will let you know about brakes. If yours are true 68 then they should be 9mm. My 72 is 10 mm. My dad has a survivor 12/68. He would be interested in any original parts you are not going to be using.

Our next project is going to be a 64 soft top with 60 axles and drivetrain.
 
Thanks jason, I will let you know about brakes. If yours are true 68 then they should be 9mm. My 72 is 10 mm. My dad has a survivor 12/68. He would be interested in any original parts you are not going to be using.

Our next project is going to be a 64 soft top with 60 axles and drivetrain.

Mine is either a Jan or Feb 1968 per the VIN/to build date chart. I have (most of) both front and rear brake comp for this '68 and have some '69 brake components as well. I'll sell parts cheap... rather it go to someone than the scrapper!!

J
 
I have been trying to do one small task per day. with 3 very active kids 7, 5 and 2.5, it gets tough

VHT rust converter, it will be getting a new pinion flange to match the 4 speed driveshafts.

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Did you order new flanges from Kurt? Course spline back to ?? MM x MM pattern. Which 4 spd drive shafts are you using?

I hope to get your father squared away on brake components. We emailed/PM'd on items.

J
 
Did you order new flanges from Kurt? Course spline back to ?? MM x MM pattern. Which 4 spd drive shafts are you using?

I hope to get your father squared away on brake components. We emailed/PM'd on items.

J
Not sure yet on the flanges. I have to measure. Kurt will probably be getting a call soon.

4 speed driveshafts from mid 70s (77?) fj40. Same year as my H42, transfer and bellhousing.

My dad was going to convert to disc brakes on his 69 but it is so complete he is staying original. He has an 87 fj60 to mess with.
 
Not sure yet on the flanges. I have to measure. Kurt will probably be getting a call soon.

4 speed driveshafts from mid 70s (77?) fj40. Same year as my H42, transfer and bellhousing.

My dad was going to convert to disc brakes on his 69 but it is so complete he is staying original. He has an 87 fj60 to mess with.


Copy that. Since I have large pattern T/C flanges ('86- 60 series) I will either re-drill them to small pattern or order a pair from Kurt @cruiseroutfit . Then off to the driveshaft shop for custom length shafts and balancing.

J
 
Reeve, you could also put together hybrid FJ40 d-shafts, if you already have some late FJ60 or FJ62 shafts for parts.
On each of the FJ40 shafts, pull it apart at the slip joint. Slip the FJ60 splined end into the FJ40 d-shaft to get 60 pattern on one end. Service the u-joint on the other end, but put the FJ60 flange on instead of FJ40.
No messing around with pinion yoke & preload, no $$ spent changing pinion or t-case flanges.

HTH
 
Reeve, you could also put together hybrid FJ40 d-shafts, if you already have some late FJ60 or FJ62 shafts for parts.
On each of the FJ40 shafts, pull it apart at the slip joint. Slip the FJ60 splined end into the FJ40 d-shaft to get 60 pattern on one end. Service the u-joint on the other end, but put the FJ60 flange on instead of FJ40.
No messing around with pinion yoke & preload, no $$ spent changing pinion or t-case flanges.

HTH
Jim,

After researching the various pinion opinions, it seems like everyones is different.

What are your thoughts on changing pinion seal (and flange in this case @reevesci ) and maintaining the correct preload. FSM details disassembling the differential to check.

Thanks
 

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