Builds Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off (2 Viewers)

[ginmtb]

Well not sure if this is what you were looking for:

If not let me know and I'll try again. I know when I installed mine it wasn't easy and I needed to use a ratcheting strap to pull the spring into place.

 

[Jdc1]

Thanks @ginmtb. The shot I need is where the bolts come through the hanger. I would like to see how much clearance is between your spring and the end of the locator bolt.

I used a ratchet strap as well to position the springs.

 

[FJ40Jim]

JDC, sometimes the bolts are a smidge too long and touch the spring. Obviously any exposed thread inside the spring hanger is just wasted material. If this is the problem, just cut/grind the bolts shorter as needed.

 

[Jdc1]

JDC, sometimes the bolts are a smidge too long and touch the spring. Obviously any exposed thread inside the spring hanger is just wasted material. If this is the problem, just cut/grind the bolts shorter as needed.

Thanks Jim. I am planning on using blue loctite for final assembly. Is there a better product or is this overkill?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Those little bolts are only there to keep the big shoulder of the springpin held into the precision hole of the spring hanger. They don't really see much load & never loosen up IME. A little loctite won't hurt, but is prolly unnecessary. Actually, because you are also in OH, I strongly recommend anti-seez on all the things. You & I will have far more difficulty with rusty/stuck fasteners, rather than fasteners that come loose.

FWIW, things that do loosen up, IME: shock bolts/nuts, spring u-bolts & nuts.

 

[Jdc1]

Thank for the help

 

[ginmtb]

Oh okay now I know what you're referring to lol. I bought shorter bolts to deal with them protruding too far inwards. Local hardware store had everything I needed.

 

[Jdc1]

Oh okay now I know what you're referring to lol. I bought shorter bolts to deal with them protruding too far inwards. Local hardware store had everything I needed.

That's what I needed to know. I appreciate the help.

 

[ginmtb]

Not sure why they provided such long bolts for a kit supposedly specific for the Cruiser. But doesn't surprise me based on their lack of good instructions...

 

[Jdc1]

Progress

Sandblasted, self etching primer and semigloss sem enamel.

The powdercoated steelies turned out lighter than stock, but I think it will look good with the rustic green and stock hubcaps.

 

[Jdc1]

 

[FJ40Jim]

JDC, Lookin' good!

Did you blast the axle and wheels yourself?
And then had the wheels commercially PC'd, and painted the axle yourself?

 

[Jdc1]

JDC, Lookin' good!

Did you blast the axle and wheels yourself?
And then had the wheels commercially PC'd, and painted the axle yourself?

Thanks jim,

We had the same company that did the frame sandblast both and pc the wheels. I painted the axle housing.

After putting a hubcap on I do not like the how light the rims turned out. I will let them sit awhile and then might scuff and paint with a color matched to original.

 

[Jdc1]

Before picture of rims and axle housing.

And my motivation;

 

[Jdc1]

@FJ40Jim,

I have assembled the parts to start reassembling the rear axle. I see some people using sealant on the outside edge of the axle seals where they seal against axle housing. Thoughts?

 

[FJ40Jim]

The usual rear axle seal is a rubber encased design. They do not get sealant.
In general, the only type of seal that *may* get sealant is the style w/ bare metal OD.

 

[Jdc1]

The usual rear axle seal is a rubber encased design. They do not get sealant.
In general, the only type of seal that *may* get sealant is the style w/ bare metal OD.

Thanks Jim.

 

[Jdc1]

Slowly moving forward

 

[Jdc1]

This will help a lot.

 

[Jdc1]

I removed the inner races from my rear axle. Using a Dremel cut off wheel, I scored the race about 3/4 of the way through. Then with my dollar store special hammer and an old chisel I worked it until it spun enough to slide off of the axle.