Builds Red Dragon - HJ61 Build

[cruiseroutfit]

I'd keep the vacuum shift unless it's a reliability concern of the vacuum actuator. It's kind of unique. What about adding some low range gears?

Therein lies the slippery slope

My goal this weekend was to get it put back together for the Relic Run this coming weekend, I don’t want to create another future Kurt problem so I’m looking for one and done. I’ve got some other complete vac Tcases here but they’ll need a full overhaul too.

 

[bj70_guy]

I would consider a swap to manual to be a bonus.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I would consider a swap to manual to be a bonus.

But then my glove box door decal won't match the actual shift pattern

 

[SKULLYOTA]

I vote manual shift conversion. I am very happy that I converted my HZJ73, too many instances where the actuator didn’t do it’s job when I really wanted it too!

 

[theglobb]

Manual... I've seen a couple of times now in the past 2-3 years the vacuum-operated 4wd setup fail on Land Cruisers while out on the trail, one guy busted his door up trying to do the whole thing in 2wd, and the other times have just been a major PITA in general. Seen it happen on three 70 series and my own 62 back when I owned it. As well as my dad's 1964 FJ40, was a major pain so when the tranny/tcase blew we just swapped it to a manual shift one. With my BJ75, it's such a relief having the manual shift, never have to worry.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Manual... I've seen a couple of times now in the past 2-3 years the vacuum-operated 4wd setup fail on Land Cruisers while out on the trail, one guy busted his door up trying to do the whole thing in 2wd, and the other times have just been a major PITA in general. Seen it happen on three 70 series and my own 62 back when I owned it. As well as my dad's 1964 FJ40, was a major pain so when the tranny/tcase blew we just swapped it to a manual shift one. With my BJ75, it's such a relief having the manual shift, never have to worry.

Fair point. However it's only 4 bolts to manually shift the vacuum setup into 4WD and while I'd rather not have to lay under my vehicle on any trail... I'd definitely do so rather than jack a door

 

[jrcfj]

Match the sticker….

 

[jrcfj]

Seems like the system is reliable if the solenoids are replaced with the mini truck ones. And, instructions matter, hahah.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Seems like the system is reliable if the solenoids are replaced with the mini truck ones. And, instructions matter, hahah.

We have the mini ones here but they are 12V. I've not tried to see how long they will survive on 24V. I do have a spare 24 unit in case this one dies.

 

[jrcfj]

We have the mini ones here but they are 12V. I've not tried to see how long they will survive on 24V. I do have a spare 24 unit in case this one dies.

Ahhh, forgot you are 24 volt…

 

[Rockymtnreaper]

I would swap to manual. Seems like a no-brainer, but that's only because I have never dealt with the vacuum shifter. Love the build so far!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Alright, how married to keeping things original am I? I have a 5spd manual HJ61 with a vacuum shift 2WD/4WD split transfer case. It arrived from Japan without any stateside service work by my request. I got it up on the lift to do full fluid change and found some Japan local FIPG repair on the tcase and a nearly stripped tcase fill plug, glued in with more FIPG. It wasn't leaking so I swapped fluids and considered it a future Kurt problem.

Fast forward a few years and it's on the lift again. I had a leaking front output seal and a weeping PTO seal. No biggie, drain the case and swap seals. The front output flange had a bit of wear on the seal surface so I swapped flanges. In the process I found that the front output has a tad bit of play at the bearing. Time for a rebuild, no biggie. But between the play in the front shaft, the stripped fill plug and whatever leak they caulked up on the bottom... I'm really considering just installing a brand new manual 2-4wd split case, I know a guy with a few dozen of them The only thing hanging me up is ditching the vacuum shift (novelty) on an otherwise completely rebuildable/repairable case. It's not a beauty queen and it's not bone stock, I've added suspension, sliders, a rear bumper and long range fuel tank. Everything about the manual shift is more reliable really. I've given less thought to a home purchase

One of my biggest hangups would be the mismatched pattern on the glovebox door decal

View attachment 3118472

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Fast forward a few months and I finally have it back up on the lift at home to resolve the t-case scenario. I tore down the existing case and discovered why that glob of FIPG exists. At some point in it's life, the idler shaft must have migrated a bit and let the gears chew on the bottom of the case. What must have been some nasty noise also resulted in a cracked case.

Hard to see but there is a crack that was obviously leaking hence the FIPG gob

The gears themselves look great, I can only assume they were all replaced when the repair was made in Japan. It's been completely quiet and I've driven it all over the west these past few years.

So what next. I've got a handful of donor vacuum cases with all 3 sensor holes. I've got new manual cases in several different ratios (but then my glovebox door decal is wrong ), I've new vacuum t-cases but they are later model and lack all 3 sensor holes. Easy enough to machine/fix. Or, I've got new empty cases but they lack both the machining and holes for the vacuum diaphragm but also the hi-low shift sensor machining and holes. Again, easy enough to solve.

I'm reluctant to use up a donor used vacuum case or a brand new vacuum case as I've got such clean gears and like to tinker. I'm leaning towards machining the bare case. We've done it in the past, might as well do it for my own. Either way I need go do something as it's now stranded on the lift.

 

[BrickRunner]

Fast forward a few months and I finally have it back up on the lift at home to resolve the t-case scenario. I tore down the existing case and discovered why that glob of FIPG exists. At some point in it's life, the idler shadt must have migrates a bit at let the gears chew on the bottom of the case. What must have been some nasty noise resulted in a cracked case.

View attachment 3206753

Hard to see but there is a crack that was obviously leaking hence the FIPG gob

View attachment 3206758

The gears themselves look great, I can only assume they were all replaced when the repair was made in Japan. It's been completely quiet and I've driven it all over the west these past few years.

So what next. I've got a handful of donor vacuum cases with all 3 sensor holes. I've got new manual cases in several different ratios (but then my glovebox door decal is wrong ), I've new vacuum t-cases but they are later model and lack all 3 sensor holes. Easy enough to machine/fix. Or, I've got new empty cases but they lack both the machining and holes for the vacuum diaphragm but also the hi-low shift sensor machining and holes. Again, easy enough to solve.

View attachment 3206760

View attachment 3206759

I'm reluctant to use up a donor used vacuum case or a brand new vacuum case as I've got such clean gears and like to tinker. I'm leaning towards machining the bare case. We've done it in the past, might as well do it for my own. Either way I need go do something as it's now stranded on the lift.

Can the crack be TIG welded, or is there other damage to the case?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Can the crack be TIG welded, or is there other damage to the case?

It could, but the fill plug is also stripped and the thrust washer faces are a bit chewed on though not an issue. I guess it comes down to economy and time. Modifying a bare case would be less work? I will absolutely save this case to live on in the future and or for test fitting.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Yahtzee! Took one last run though all my core t-case bins. There was one down low that didn't look super promising as we generally mark them "complete" or "good core" and "vacuum" for the vacuum shift stuff. This bin was naturally not marked either way and at the bottom of the pile.

Moved a thousand lbs of other bins and Yahtzee!

Most importantly, it has the necessary sensor holes.

It needs to be cleaned up but I'm way happier using this than tearing down a complete trans-tcase combo to steal the housing only and I don't have to wait on machine work/tapping to use the new bare case. I'm dropping these for vapor blast work tomorrow.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Case aluminum bits are in the hands of the vapor honing crew. I sent some spare parts so I've got plenty to choose from. With any luck I'll have them back later this week. I've got all the other rebuild parts in a pile at Cruiser Outfitters to take home. Doing all new t-case hardware , a full t-case rebuild kit (TC8690), a vacuum diaphragm overhaul kit (TCVCDKIT) and new flanges. The flanges are totally fine but everything else us going to be new, refurbished or clean so why not spend a few more bucks.

 

[cruisermatt]

how about some 10% OD gears?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

how about some 10% OD gears?

I should. With the rubber overdrive & H55F it's pretty fast BUT 10% faster or more appropriately 10% lower RPM's would be cool too. I may need to go shopping down Aisle 2 again.

 

[roma042987]

Kurt your truck must have the 4.10s. I have 3.73s in mine and I absolutely hate it with the 255/85/16s. I'm actually trying to decide whether to switch back to some 15's with 31's or take these newly rebuilt cable locked axles apart and regear them to 4.10

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Kurt your truck must have the 4.10s. I have 3.73s in mine and I absolutely hate it with the 255/85/16s. I'm actually trying to decide whether to switch back to some 15's with 31's or take these newly rebuilt cable locked axles apart and regear them to 4.10

Yessir, 4.111111111 ｱﾘ(ﾃﾞｲﾌｱﾚﾝｼﾔﾙ ﾛﾂｸ)