Pulling injectors (22re) and have some questions

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STAGE 2

10 Year 15 Year
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I'm going through my cooling system and figured since I'm going to have some downtime with the radiator getting rebuilt I might as well pull the injectors and send them out for cleaning.

My first question is do you guys have any tricks for minimizing fuel spills when I crack into the system i.e. pull the pump fuse and run the truck.

Also, I checked the FSM and they dont list any torque specs for any of the fuel lines such as the one that goes to the cold start injector or the one that runs from the fuel filter to the fuel rail. How tight do you guys snug these down?
 
no suggestions on fuel spillage, but the bolts that you are speaking of are hollow, and might be aluminum, so make sure you get new copper washers, and just snug them up. unless you are built like the Terminator you should be alright.
 
unplug the fuel pump at the fuel pump, and don't forget to plug it back in right after you relieve the pressure. let the truck run til it dies then give it another crank or two.

(k) Connect the cold start injector tube with two new
gasket and the union bolt.
Torque: 15 N–m (150 kgf–cm, 11 ft–lbf)
 
the bigger banjo bolts on the fuel rail will be 25 ft. pounds
 
RCinjector, Make sure you insure them for 300.00 each, I mailed mine via usps and they broke the packaging, only 1 arrived and I didnt realize how much they are to replace, the bosch replacements, recommended by engnbldr, are ~300 each, the off brand is cheaper and OEM aren't available from Toyota. I got lucky and found the bosch injectors from some guy on EBAY for ~100 /ea, still more than I insured mine for. The post office eventually paid up, but I only insured them for 200. Learn from my mistake, insure the heck out of them.
 
eetdirt47 said:
unplug the fuel pump at the fuel pump, and don't forget to plug it back in right after you relieve the pressure.
Click to expand...

What is the reason it needs to be plugged in after the pressure is relieved and would pulling the fuse accomplish the same thing?


(k) Connect the cold start injector tube with two new
gasket and the union bolt.
Torque: 15 N–m (150 kgf–cm, 11 ft–lbf)
Click to expand...

What page did you find this on. In my fsm in the efi section it just says 'install the fuel pipe with two new gaskets".
 
I just place a rag around the cold start injector and then loosen the bolt securing the banjo fitting to the injector, as soon as you brake the torque the pressure will be depleted and the rag will take care of the mess. When you pull the fuel rail to remove the injectors fuel will run out, when doing injector remove and install there is no way around NOT spilling fuel. Injectors are not hard to find, I bought a used set for about $100.00 then sent them to be cleaned and checked, keep in mind that there is know way to adjust spray patterns or rebuild the coils, when injectors are rebuilt they are cleaned and hooked up to a test set to verify proper spray pattern and flow, often times the shop will match injectors with similar flow rates to give you a matched set. What is replaced are seals and the screens in the inlet of the injectors, nothing else. Thee is a site called mr injector, he will rehab your old injectors for under $20.00ea, his service includes ultrasonically cleaning, testing for proper flow and spray pattern, replacement of the seals and screen, his turnaround is about a week and they will look virtually new.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
i found that in the fsm for a V6 cylinder section but i'm guessing they are the same. i just did my heads and had a hard time getting those gaskets. what fuse are you talking about? the EFI fuse? the only thing you want to disable is the fuel pump and i think the EFI fuse controls all kinds of stuff. about plugging it in after you relieve the pressure... the one time i actually "properly" relieved my fuel pressure i forgot to plug my fuel pump back in and didn't realize it til i jumpered the terminal's under the hood and went back to see if it was running... then i felt really dumb.
 
flash02 said:
I just place a rag around the cold start injector and then loosen the bolt securing the banjo fitting to the injector, as soon as you brake the torque the pressure will be depleted and the rag will take care of the mess. When you pull the fuel rail to remove the injectors fuel will run out, when doing injector remove and install there is no way around NOT spilling fuel. Injectors are not hard to find, I bought a used set for about $100.00 then sent them to be cleaned and checked, keep in mind that there is know way to adjust spray patterns or rebuild the coils, when injectors are rebuilt they are cleaned and hooked up to a test set to verify proper spray pattern and flow, often times the shop will match injectors with similar flow rates to give you a matched set. What is replaced are seals and the screens in the inlet of the injectors, nothing else. Thee is a site called mr injector, he will rehab your old injectors for under $20.00ea, his service includes ultrasonically cleaning, testing for proper flow and spray pattern, replacement of the seals and screen, his turnaround is about a week and they will look virtually new.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Click to expand...

this is what i usually do, actually i have more fuel spillage from my return line than anything else.
 
STAGE 2 said:
What is the reason it needs to be plugged in after the pressure is relieved and would pulling the fuse accomplish the same thing?

What page did you find this on. In my fsm in the efi section it just says 'install the fuel pipe with two new gaskets".
Click to expand...

You plug it back in so the truck will fire when you are done. Doesn't matter when you do it, as long as you remember.

Pulling the fuse also clears the ECU so it has to relearn things. Sure, it will kill the pump and accomplish the same thing. Much easier than trying to pop the plug at the pump.

I don't have my FSM in front of me. I believe there are torque specs on the explosion pics. Personally, I don't get crazy with torque specs on fuel lines. As long as it's tight enough not to leak. I've seen way too many fuel lines tighten to factory spec from the factory that you can't get undone because they mushroomed the tubing (Camry, Land Cruiser, 4Runner just to name a few). Just tight enough is good enough.
 
My injector seals failed and now my rig sprays gas everywhere. How hard is it to pull the injectors?
 
pretty easy.
I pulled my upper intake off, then unbolt the fuel line going to the fuel rail and to the cold start injector on the upper intake.
since you're replacing the seals, then just pull the fuel rail and the injectors.
easy as that.
might spill some gas
 
This might be a stupid question but is there a way to pull the upper intake off without having to disconnect everything? I am really worried about disconnecting the linkage for the throttle and not being able to set it back to factory specs. Also, keeping track of all the hoses seems like a big pain to. Just wandering if I can unbolt the upper intake and set it aside with everything attached.
 
i dunno. you might be able to do that. If you label everything with tape then you won't have any issues putting it all back together. I failed to label everything when i took it all apart and it took me many hours looking up pictures online.
Don't think i've worried about "factory specs" with any linkage. Just adjust it until there is no slack in the cable.
You'll need a new upper to lower intake manifold gasket and egr gasket if you pull the upper intake.
It'll take you a half hour to hour to label everything and take it all apart.

Might be able to pull the fuel rail w/o messing with the intake manifold. I haven't tried that though. Someone might chime in with some better solution.
Getting the electrical connector metal clips off of the injectors is a bit of a PITA.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
Take several photos of the engine before you start. Those always help me get things back where they are supposed to go.
Click to expand...

This^^^. I took a ton of pictures when I did the last two and with a 3.0 you need it. The 22RE isn't to bad, biggest thing is the little vacuum lines.

I am almost positive you cannot remove the upper without disconnecting most everything, besides you would be bending everything un-naturally and things would probably break under the strain.

Labelling things is the best, that plus pictures will get it back right. I like to have a box of sandwich bags and a sharpie handy so I can put bolts and such in the bag and label them so when I go to put the TB back on, I just pull out the bag with those four bolts in it and I am good. No hunting thru a pile of hardware and hoping you find the right one.

Also, be as careful as you can with the plugs. I will forewarn you that you will most likely break at least one or two of the little clips off. They are very brittle. I did two 3.0s and broke 10 out of the 12, and I am pretty sure a couple of the ones on my 22RE are broken now from the last disassembly.

Just take your time and pay attention and you will be fine.

Good luck
 
Quick question. We are pulling the injectors from my son's truck, 22Re, to send to Mr. Injector. Should we send the cold start injector also? or is that something easily cleaned by us? if so, how?

Thanks,
ML
 
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