Builds Project R2D2 Sixty - 1986 Retro Refresh (1 Viewer)

[wngrog]

Look who is back in the shop.....

My painter came up to work on my FJ45 project (Hate it or Love it, 40 section) and looked the 60 over.

He says no sweat. Once I get ready he will take it in and make the roof all right with the world.

I’d not yet put it in the rack so I wanted to get it in the air and make sure all the fluids were good. Bolts tight. Shafts greased. Etc.

After washing off a coupe or three weeks of Mississippi pollen I pulled it in.

I let it sit overnight. Had two drip marks. Both look like they are either oil pan or rear main.
I added proper hex plugs while I was checking the axles. Fluid was clean so I did not drain either axle.

I got good turns on all the oil pan bolts so I’m crossing my fingers that that takes up most of the drip. It’s not near bad enough to warrant pulling the drivetrain out for a rear main.

The other good news is that there is zero. Zero rust on the lower body and frame. All the surface stuff is just coloring. So happy.

 

[wngrog]

 

[wngrog]

The great thing about this stuff versus paint is that after it soaks into that surface rust the frame will be black again. Not black like rust converter though. It’s great. I’ll show it before it leaves Tilda Bogue to show

All treated. I had to drop the spare to get above it. Turned out it was also flat and they installed it with valve stem up. It’s brand new so hopefully it stays full.

 

[wngrog]

Heat gun on the console is actually a doable deal. Typically a hair dryer is going to not have enough heat.

When using a heat gun just remember that it’s easy to get it to hot and distort the grain or melt it so no drinking on the job!

We usually remove the consoles and use a good cleaner followed by grey scotch brite for a minor prep and then wiped with rubbing alcohol. NOTE: DO NOT USE THE ALCOHOL YOU ARE DRINKING AT THE TIME! It is in fact different!!!!!

After prepping.... Graphite SEMS interior color will be a dead on match to your dash cover. You can also use this color on any interior colors in the vehicle including upper vinyl on door panels.

Cordovan Brown is the SEMS color for brown interiors. PLEASE keep in mind that preparation is the key and just use enough color to cover. More color is not a good thing for flexible products / plastics,vinyl, rubber.

Though this is not a sales pitch..... it is available on our website as well as most automotive paint stores.

Thanks for the tip.

Since this is good paint I thought I should shake it good.

here is today’s life hack for y’all

 

[wngrog]

Not only was the top of this console faded but the rest of the console was stained and the grab bar was a mess.
This SEM paint did the trick on both

 

[wngrog]

I basically did everything I needed to do today that allowed me not to have to mess with the paint.

The seat bottom that came from @USMC22 got a good shampoo.

Then I installed the interior stuff back.

Then I cleaned up under the hood and made a little list of items it needs under the hood.
It’s remarkably complete. I got a new intake hose because the other one was yellow and highly offensive.

Best thing though is these superb Koito H4 headlight upgrades

 

[OG SUV]

R2D2 is looking awesome! That fluid film turned out sweet!

Curious are you going to put a Holley sniper on it?

 

[wngrog]

R2D2 is looking awesome! That fluid film turned out sweet!

Curious are you going to put a Holley sniper on it?

Not while it runs this good.

 

[wngrog]

Loaded up R2D2 with parts to ship and parts to get powder coated.

This was the first long drive I’ve ever taken it on.

Overall it was great. It’s dieseling when I kill the ignition. I need to check the timing. It’s possibly out of whack. I have zero experience with fully smogged 2Fs so hopefully that is all it is.

Still has a drip at the rear main.

This truck is fantastic. Hard to imagine it’s only got 149,000 miles

 

[Cincodemustache]

It’s a beauty! Was trying to see how you ran the koito harness and relays in the engine bay. Next time you are under there would you mind snapping a shot?

 

[Bama4door]

Check the timing first. If it’s ok, check the idle control solenoid. Either it’s bad (it should click when you turn the key on) or the gasket at the end is bad.

 

[wngrog]

It’s a beauty! Was trying to see how you ran the koito harness and relays in the engine bay. Next time you are under there would you mind snapping a shot?

Super simple. Will do

 

[FJBen]

I basically did everything I needed to do today that allowed me not to have to mess with the paint.

The seat bottom that came from @USMC22 got a good shampoo.
View attachment 2278799
Then I installed the interior stuff back.
View attachment 2278805
Then I cleaned up under the hood and made a little list of items it needs under the hood.
It’s remarkably complete. I got a new intake hose because the other one was yellow and highly offensive.
View attachment 2278802
Best thing though is these superb Koito H4 headlight upgrades
View attachment 2278800

View attachment 2278801

I love this 60.

Nice, I just did the Koito upgrade on mine as well. Unbelievable piece of kit for that price.

The parts guy called me from the place I ordered online to say I think it's just a bulb he couldn't believe it was that cheap.

Makes me want to buy another 89nolder just to buy this light kit.

 

[wngrog]

It’s a beauty! Was trying to see how you ran the koito harness and relays in the engine bay. Next time you are under there would you mind snapping a shot?

So, don’t laugh at the battery hold down. I have the J Hook and hold on order from @Onur

 

[wngrog]

Started in on the passenger side today.

I think I’ve got a plan to blend all this together.

Forgot to take more pics but I got the whole fender done. This is before and after the top section

 

[wngrog]

Whew. This turned out to be a big job as I’ve never had to do these seals and gaskets before.

The window chrome was messed up and the gaskets all nasty and pulled out.

Also, all the windows were sticky and pulling the runs out of the channels when you rolled the window down

Out all the glass comes. Razor scraped and the regulators are hit with some Toyota chassis grease and the sides filled up with Fluid Film on the bottoms and Noico on the sides.

 

[wngrog]

Noico in the doors is solid gold. This was after I finished the driver rear, before I started on the front

 

[wngrog]

Beno not only sent me the superb OEM gaskets, but he also sent me a link to the FSM.

There is an order all this has to go in and if you don’t know that order you might bash your head on the floor for :30
The bottoms of these doors are amazingly perfect. I just blew out some junk and made sure the drains were good to go and put a light coat of fluid film on them.

In the end doing all 4 doors with all new rubber and pulling the regulators and using Toyota chassis grease (also from Beno) took me all day

He also sent the proper battery hold down hardware.

Now I have to finish up scrubbing the passenger side so I can take this thing to get the roof painted.

 

[OGBeno]

Looking tough man.

 

[wngrog]

Check the timing first. If it’s ok, check the idle control solenoid. Either it’s bad (it should click when you turn the key on) or the gasket at the end is bad.

I finally got R2D2 back in the shop. It was sitting at 18* at the BB

Dropped it down to 0 at the BB and it drives great. I’ve not put a long ride on yet to see if that killed the diesel but I’m confident it will.

I took on a door today.

It’s amazing how much harder the passenger side is going versus the drivers side. My painter said that’s pretty common on vehicles that sit outside for years. One side often gets direct sun and the other side does not.

Coming out good in the end but it takes a lot of work.