- Thread starter
- #621
I snooped around on it tonight.
It's not as bad as I thought.
Looks like red with green stripe is the one that fried. It damaged some neighbors but not as bad as I thought.
My biggest issue is what goes where.
Builds Project Patina-November 1968 FJ-40
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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I snooped around on it tonight.
It's not as bad as I thought.
Looks like red with green stripe is the one that fried. It damaged some neighbors but not as bad as I thought.
My biggest issue is what goes where.
Texican
s-Moderator
That line isn't aluminum..........hit it with a grinder......
Not too hard really. First thing I do is fill the master and crack the bleeder and let gravity do its thing for a bit. Once you have a good drip going tighten the bleeder and get someone to push the clutch in as you crack the bleeder. Close the bleeder before the pedal goes back up. They bleed pretty easy.
Red/green goes to the low beams.
- Thread starter
- #625
All the headlight wiring goes over to the passenger side using those junction boxes on the fenders.
Isn't there a junction box on each fender?
The red/yellow and red/green wires are for the high and low beams respectively. They are sourced from the high/low beam selector switch in the cab and come through the firewall to separate terminals on one of those two distribution blocks. On that distribution block, the red/yellow and red/green terminals should have three connections each - 1 from the source from the selector switch (the fried wire you've shown above), 1 from the headlight nearest to that distribution block, and 1 to the corresponding terminal on the other distribution block.
The other distribution block will only have two connections - 1 from source (the other distribution block in this case) and 1 from the headlight nearest to this particular block.
Clear as mud?
The red/yellow and red/green wires are for the high and low beams respectively. They are sourced from the high/low beam selector switch in the cab and come through the firewall to separate terminals on one of those two distribution blocks. On that distribution block, the red/yellow and red/green terminals should have three connections each - 1 from the source from the selector switch (the fried wire you've shown above), 1 from the headlight nearest to that distribution block, and 1 to the corresponding terminal on the other distribution block.
The other distribution block will only have two connections - 1 from source (the other distribution block in this case) and 1 from the headlight nearest to this particular block.
Clear as mud?
- Thread starter
- #627
That makes sense I thought since the driver was tied in through the passenger junction block that that's where all the power was coming from.
I need that early diagram if you have it. Andy sent me 1978 and it's totally different
I need that early diagram if you have it. Andy sent me 1978 and it's totally different
- Thread starter
- #629
Since no one gives me an answer to my question I took the cut off wheel to the rusted ass top.
I Cut and Cut and Cut ......
I Cut and Cut and Cut ......
- Thread starter
- #630
I'm happy with my work. It's all
Anti-rust treated.
Tomorrow it will be black and Happy
I'll seal up the gaps. Call it good.
Anti-rust treated.
Tomorrow it will be black and Happy
I'll seal up the gaps. Call it good.
under_psi
SILVER Star
i would have answered but im the most tech-dumb fj40 n00b in here.....
sounds like a plan!
sounds like a plan!
- Thread starter
- #632
All this boot mounting is easier done with the hump out
My hitch is blending in nicely.
I might give you a run for your money on that title.
So the rear sill is staying as is, or will you patch from below to seal out the elements?
- Thread starter
- #634
Now that most of the cancer is cut out I will be able to seal it much better
I may have to add some tie in by the tailgate. I think it's only got 2 bolts left holding the rear of the hardtop to the tub.
It sitting there rock solid but a trip down a gravel washboard may change that.
Will see. It's definitely getting sealed. The rust bond went on last night. Now I can do whatever.
I may have to add some tie in by the tailgate. I think it's only got 2 bolts left holding the rear of the hardtop to the tub.
It sitting there rock solid but a trip down a gravel washboard may change that.
Will see. It's definitely getting sealed. The rust bond went on last night. Now I can do whatever.
under_psi
SILVER Star
any way to overlap some thin flat bar and make like a strap for it? just to hold in place? drill some holes and run em through...
Loving this project, great work Nolan.
- Thread starter
- #637
Lou I'm not worried about the top flying off at all. Assuming the long B pillar rods have not been cut off and the windshield is secure its good. I can make tabs at the spot where it meets by the tailgate if it rattles around.
Tank is in and plumbed.
This little piece is so cool to me. It's beat but it's still there which is rare
The fitting that I got from SOR is a loose fit on the 5/16" hose so I added a hose clamp and secured the loop so it does not move.
The hump is in and SOR kindly sent me a used Tcase knob for a mere $40
Tank is in and plumbed.
This little piece is so cool to me. It's beat but it's still there which is rare
The fitting that I got from SOR is a loose fit on the 5/16" hose so I added a hose clamp and secured the loop so it does not move.
The hump is in and SOR kindly sent me a used Tcase knob for a mere $40
under_psi
SILVER Star
awesome. you can see the "light" now im sure....
no...not talking through the rusty holes either.....
no...not talking through the rusty holes either.....
- Thread starter
- #639
Yeah yeah Lou.....
So, I tried to JB weld some of the smaller holes yesterday using painter tape to back it.
Total fail since I had to remove the tape.
I went to the parts house and came home with some toys.
I then added this steel putty
It blends in good with my swish cheese tranny hump
Lastly you can see where I over cut my tranny hump to the front. When you put the boot on it covers up all the ugly
I made the boot attachment into studs since I want to keep the transmission shifter out for now.
So, I tried to JB weld some of the smaller holes yesterday using painter tape to back it.
Total fail since I had to remove the tape.
I went to the parts house and came home with some toys.
I then added this steel putty
It blends in good with my swish cheese tranny hump
Lastly you can see where I over cut my tranny hump to the front. When you put the boot on it covers up all the ugly
I made the boot attachment into studs since I want to keep the transmission shifter out for now.
Last edited:
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
Dude, all you had to do was ask; I'd have traded You my old tcase knob.
